THE White House might want to consider thanking Bermuda for being somewhat primitive in its appreciation of culinary arts in the 1960s and early '70s.

Were residents and visitors more gourmand-minded, Roland Mesnier might have been content to remain employed as a corporate pastry chef for hotels on the island. But ennui set in and he moved to the United States with his wife, Martha, and their young son, George. Five years later, he was called to the White House by then-First Lady, Rosalynn Carter.

For Mr. Mesnier, the rest of his sweet tale has revolved around pastry.

This July, the French-born chef is to retire having spent 25 years as the executive pastry chef at one of America's most famous addresses ? 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue.

And in an interview with this week, he recounted the many stops he made before he became "dessert sorcerer to Presidents, their families, and movers and shakers from all over the planet".

Bermuda doesn't compare all that favourably.

Mr. Mesnier arrived on the island at 23, employed as head pastry chef at the Princess Hotel in Hamilton.

"What they were doing in the pastry shop was terrible," he told staff writer Judith Weinraub. "Sheet cake cut into little squares. Whipped topping. Not a showpiece to be seen."

Even more of an abomination, desserts were sent to the table under a stainless steel plate cover. His immediate thought: "I've landed in a coffee shop."

Six years later, he'd improved the hotel's offerings and was in need of a new challenge. His next move was Paris, and the George V Hotel.

Bermuda called again, however, and Mr. Mesnier returned for three years before calling it quits. In 1976, longing to return to work in the kitchen, he bade the island goodbye for the Homestead resort in Hot Springs, Virginia.

That job landed the chef his White House posting of 25 years.

Impressed with his talents, Homestead guests based in Washington told him Mrs. Carter was looking for a pastry chef and White House chef Henry Haller encouraged him to apply.

"He will be missed," America's First Lady Laura Bush told . "Roland's desserts have been enjoyed by Presidents, their families and guests through five administrations. The President and I are always proud when his creations are presented to heads of state and old family friends."

Come September, the chef will release his first book, , a course in pastry for the home chef, which he wrote with former pastry chef and author Lauren Chattman.