WHEN Llewellyn Harvey entered the hospitality industry at the age of 15, he joined a path already travelled by many members in his family.

"It's in my blood," he explained. "We're a family of natural cooks. (Renowned Bermudian chef and Bermuda College lecturer) Fred Ming is my first cousin. (Former Tourism Minister) C.V. 'Jim' Woolridge is my mother's first cousin and Emma Ming, who was at Crow Lane Bakery for many years, was also a cousin."

Well-known as the proprietor of - highly-acclaimed but now closed - Once Upon A Table in Hamilton, Mr. Harvey is putting his talents to use as the manager of Palms, a restaurant he developed at Surf Side Beach Club along the South Shore in Warwick.

"We opened very quietly four years ago," he said. "Initially, we were only open to guests, we wanted to grow slowly. We've recently opened it more to outsiders but a lot of locals don't even know we're here. And when they get in here, many of them find, as I did, that it's mind-blowing.

"The property and the scenery are gorgeous. My wife, Bryony, has been the general manager at Surf Side for 31 years and even I didn't notice it. I'd go to the front desk but never really stopped to look around. It's only now I'm seeing just how beautiful the property is."

According to Mr. Harvey, Surf Side Beach Club is the "crown jewel" of Bermuda Resort Hotels, a trio of properties owned by Naval Mehra which includes the Harmony Club in Paget, and the Wharf Executive Suites in Warwick. Built 45 years ago under previous owners, it was without a restaurant for much of its existence.

"What was here was more of a coffee shop than anything else," he said. "After Once Upon A Table closed, I came to assist my wife who's general manager here, on the reception side and was then asked to take over the coffee shop. I agreed, but under the condition that certain things would have to change." Mr. Harvey said he was given a small budget, which he put into developing the bar and the restaurant four years ago.

"It's quite a small facility but in the summer-time, depending on the weather and with the full moon, it's outstanding," he said. "Inside, we can sit 35 people comfortably and outside, we can sit as many as 140. With the ocean as the backdrop, it's wonderful for weddings and private functions."

It was many years ago, at the age of 15?, said Mr. Harvey, that he began his training in the hospitality industry.

"I attended (what served as the basis for Bermuda's hospitality school, Stonington Beach Hotel) the Hotel College under the training of Jean and Ruth Bornet and Neil Hansford-Smith," he said. "It was a two-year programme but because I was so young, I stayed there for an extra six months.

"I come from a family of natural cooks so the time I spent there was mainly to fine tune my skills. I learned how to chop; I learned which knives should be used to cut certain things; I learned which onions would give you which flavours - all the basics of practical cookery." While a student, Mr. Harvey said he gained work experience in different areas of the industry in hotels all over the island. "I worked at Inverurie Hotel, at Pompano Beach Club, at Horizons & Cottages and at the former Golden Sovereign - all before the age of 19," he recalled.

After graduating from the programme, Mr. Harvey moved to Ariel Sands in Devonshire where he stayed for 12 years as its maitre d' before moving to the then newly-created training school for hotel students - Stonington Beach Hotel.

"I was at Stonington Beach for two years and then opened Once Upon A Table which was rated as one of the top four restaurants in Bermuda and which was featured on many different television networks and cooking shows," he said.

"We had many famous visitors such as (television news personality) Morley Safer and (Texan billionaire and Bermuda resident) Ross Perot and NBC news anchorman Hugh Donaldson. Once Upon A Table was open for 15? years. There were many good times and then, when things got tough, particularly with tourism and its peaks and valleys, I decided it was time to go."

Mr. Harvey said he had planned to leave hospitality forever, until his wife came calling.

"She asked me to join them at Surf Side in the reception area," he said, "and then I took over the restaurant. At first I was sceptical but I enjoy it. It's wonderful. It's a great way to meet people and I've made wonderful friends. People really love Bermudian hospitality.

"It's unfortunate that not many Bermudians are going into this industry especially because I don't think anyone but a Bermudian can sell Bermuda in the way it needs to be sold. It's unfortunate that other industries have taken people away from tourism.

"A predominant number of my staff are foreigners and that's because nobody else wants to do the work. I suggested long ago that Stonington Beach be turned into a professional hotel where students can be trained by professionals and then put out to work in the industry.

"It could solve a lot of the labour problems we have in the hotel industry today. Visitors love to come here but they want to come and meet locals. They look forward to that."

Palms, at Surf Side Beach Club, is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner and also available for private functions.