Compost is one of nature’s best mulches and soil amendments, and you can use it instead of pricey commercial fertilisers. Best of all, compost is cheap and you can make it without spending a cent, and reduce the amount of garbage you throw away each week by up to 30 percent.

Waste education and enforcement officer for the Ministry of Works and Engineering, Amy Harvey, believes composting will cut down on the 1.3 tons of trash each of us throw away each year. To support this idea, the ministry has made special compost bins available to the public for $55.

“And these compact, reasonably attractive bins are easy to use and maintain,” she adds. “When you consider that most of the work is done by nature, composting is a very simple and easy thing to do. Under ideal circumstances, once your compost site is set up all you will be required to do is feed your pile and occasionally water, or turn it to assist nature.”

Ms Harvey elaborates when maintained correctly, there is no reason why your compost should smell, or attract rodents such as rats: “The occurrence of offensive odours generally means that the composting process is not proceeding properly, usually because of inadequate aeration or excessive moisture.”

She says this can easily be remedied by turning the pile on a semi-regular basis and by selecting a bin style with the lid - like the one the ministry sells.

“Rodents are attracted by the presence of animal scraps, like chicken bones and bits of meat, so by simply keeping such wastes out of the compost, you will keep rodents out as well,” she suggests.

There are many variables involved in composting, including the size of the pile, the climatic conditions and the sort of waste you put in the compost, and it can take as little as one month, or as long as a year to produce compost.

But, Ms Harvey explains, you will know when it is ready because mature compost looks like dark, coarse soil: “It may contain small particles of original waste, such as egg shell or citrus rind, which decomposes slowly. If it does, you can either remove the particles or mix them into the garden when spreading the compost.”

Like commercial fertiliser, you can add compost to your indoor and outdoor plant soil and Ms Harvey explains that you can also use it as a “compost tea” to water and fertilise your lawn: “Simply mix one part compost with one part water and sprinkle on your lawn.”

Of course you can make your own compost bin by taking an old garbage can, removing the boom and drilling holes in the side, or by constructing a portable wood and wire compost bin, but it is important, Ms Harvey adds, to make sure you put a layer of dry twigs and leaves, or wire mesh over the top to keep annoying insects like bees and flies away. “You can also try sprinkling cayenne pepper liberally around the compost site. But do not use pesticides, or bug spray, they will also kill the good bugs and worms you need,” she warns.

To get started, Ms Harvey suggests placing your new compost bin in an easily accessible, well drained area which offers plenty of light: “Bins located in shady areas will take longer to process compost.

“While there are many varying opinions on the best way to start a compost bin, the basic biological equation is always the same. To process successfully, your compost must contain a combination of green organic waste, which is rich in nitrogen and important to the reproduction of micro-organisms and brown organic waste, which is rich in carbon - an essential energy source to the organisms in your compost,” she points out.

Based on this, she suggests the following “compost recipe”:

1. Begin with a layer of coarsely chopped brown waste, like small branches (chopped) and dried leaves, wood ash from a fire place, string and twine, feathers, peanut shells and sawdust.

2. Add just enough water to dampen everything.

3. Add a layer of green waste, like food scraps. This can include raw vegetable scraps, corn cobs (chopped up), pet and human hair, seaweed, egg shells (crushed), garden clippings including grass (avoid large quantities of Oleander and Casuarina), coffee grinds and filters and tea leaves (bagged or loose, but remove paper tag from tea bag), fruit scraps, but remember to cut citrus peel into tiny pieces as it takes longer to compost and manure which can include chicken, goat and even horse (not dog or cat excrement).

4. Repeat steps one and three and continue to add to the pile, in layers, as wastes become available.

5. Keep the material as moist as a squeezed-out sponge. You may need to water the pile if it becomes too dry.

6. Turn the pile about once a week so that it is well aerated.

To speed things up, Ms Harvey suggests adding a layer of soil or commercial fertiliser or finished compost to your pile.

“Also by cutting vegetables and fruit scraps up into little pieces, turning and tending your pile on a regular basis, you can significantly speed up the composting process,” she adds. “Most people however prefer the ‘dump and run’ approach, but it will slow down the process.”

As for items which should not be included in your compost bin, Ms Harvey elaborates: “Do not include meat and poultry scraps, including bones, fish bones or scraps, vegetable oil, dairy products, plastics, metal or glass, crab grass and other grasses with rhizamtous roots which may not be destroyed by the natural process of decomposition and may therefore cause contamination when compost is used in the garden. Dog and cat manure, plants infected with disease or severe insect blight and cooked vegetable scraps will not enhance the composting process and may attract rodents.”

For more information, or to purchase a compost bin, Ms Harvey can be contacted at 297-7953.