The Newport Room is known for being one of the most expensive restaurants in Bermuda - and that's saying something. But does a high price tag necessarily guarantee you're going to be served expensive, exotic ingredients expertly and imaginatively prepared? More importantly, does it guarantee an enjoyable night out?

From Hack's own experience at other restaurants, the answer has to be "not always". And let's face it, even the snootiest food snob has to admit that, sometimes, a good lunchwagon burger can hit the spot - and be more satisfying - than a sparrow-sized portion of something or other served up by a team of fawning waiters.

So does the Newport Room deliver the goods, or is it just hoping to get by on its reputation as a pricey - and therefore unquestionably perfect - place to eat?

Hack is glad to report that the former is definitely true. With its tuxedo-clad waiters, its ship-like interior of teak and brass, and refined French cuisine, the Newport Room would likely get top marks even in culinary centres like Paris or New York.

In fact the Newport Room does more than deliver the goods, it also willingly cuts them up into bite-size pieces and spoon feeds them to you while giving you a running commentary on the provenance of the particular morsel you're consuming.

The seriously silver service from a fleet of waiters (waiters, in the masculine: we never saw any women wait staff, or any Bermudian staff, for that matter) was, to put it mildly, attentive. When my dinner companion asked our waiter where the bathrooms were, he took the time to escort said companion to them. Service was efficient but also unobtrusive and made to appear absolutely effortless. These guys really know their stuff and always seemed to be popping up just at the right moment to refill the crystal or make recommendations regarding the menu and wine. We bowed to their superior knowledge.

As far as the food is concerned, there were no disappointments and a number of highlights. To start, duck prepared three different ways was quite superb. Breast meat and a pile of confit were accompanied by a slab of fois gras - an ingredient that on the few occasions that I've ordered in the past, always seemed a bit over rated. This particular piece was like nothing else I've ever tasted before, a rich, velvety, intensely meaty butter. Divine. A tomato tart, although elegant and delicious, seemed ordinary in comparison.

For entr?es, veal served with sweatbreads (another delightful discovery for me) was for once meltingly tender while tuna served with chunks of lobster on a bed of leeks was devoured to murmurs of 'oohs' and 'aahs'

While my companion opted for something chocolatey for dessert, the cheeseboard proved too much of a temptation for me. Again delivery and presentation were of the highest order, the range and quality of the cheeses exceptional. One particular sample which our waiter garnished with fresh truffle, was so intensely tangy it took away the roof of my mouth. Absolute heaven.

Shelling out $300 for dinner for two might seem extravagant - heck, it is extravagant - but is nevertheless well worth the money. The Newport Room will turn any celebration into a memorable occasion and if you don't have something to celebrate, the restaurant will make you feel like celebrating anyway. What you get for your buck is pampered perfection. We walked out feeling like royalty.