When discussing the landscape, I often use the old adage, 'what you create you have to maintain', for it always amazes me that the installation of many a garden has cost a lot more than need be for installation and often by extension the cost of maintenance.

Some points which spring to mind being the poor choice of plant material or simply the lack of knowledge of what is being planted where; the installation of new lawns and protection of mature trees.

Plants by their very nature grow in height and width the extent of each plant being variable, it is therefore advisable to know the full extent of the growth of the species before making a selection.

Palms for example especially Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island Date) produce a leaf spread of eighteen to twenty feet when mature, to plant them in close proximity to a building, road etc. is likely to create a problem in the future.

As well as 'looking strange' by having leaves cut off one side of the plant it becomes an unnecessary chore. Hedges are another example when problems can occur.

Hibiscus and to a greater extent oleander suffer greatly from incorrect spacing; the former being of a floriferous nature should be allowed to 'grow' and flower without having to be constantly 'pruned' back to keep it within bounds.

If planted four feet from the wall, footpath etc.. and approximately three to four feet apart then a flowering hedge will be obtained. Oleander can be planted five feet from a boundary or other 'structure' and five to six feet apart to produce the best results.

In general pruning is required twice or at most three times a year with most plantings. Small areas are always difficult to 'plant', these being areas where two walls meet at an angle or very narrow planters or an area that has been left 'empty'.

Concrete in open areas becomes very hot from the suns rays therefore in small areas concrete can act like a microwave oven and 'cook' the soil when in close proximity to the roots, which then has an adverse effect on plant growth.

Root spread also needs to be taken into consideration when planting larger material, with size of planting hole being an important factor in the success of the future growth.

When creating 'plant beds' the same criteria is used, plant for growth to fill in naturally, over planting ? though occasionally acceptable ? can create problems with pest and diseases and create a labour intensive exercise.

Lawns are the major statement in most gardens, when they are in poor condition it reflects on the rest of the garden. Preparation is important in creating a good lawn, poor preparation will create a lawn wanting in a good healthy sward and problematic with weed growth.

Soil depth and indeed sub soil depth should be uniform. When spreading soil firming should be carried out every four to six inches, to create a firm bed for root development.

When firming is not carried out settlement becomes a major problem with the finished product being of an uneven nature, which is not conducive for root and sward establishment.

Large stones should be removed during the exercise of levelling; sieved soil if to fine can create panning, and also settlement to the point that small stones become a predominant factor in the finished product.

Seeding should be applied in two directions to obtain uniformity, whilst plugs should be installed ? in my opinion ? six inches apart.

Plugs of warn season grasses such as St. Augustine Floratem are best planted between the months April to September when temperatures are conducive to growth.

They should also be installed after the soiled area has been rolled or firmed thus avoiding soil settlement around plug roots. A final rolling should be carried out once plugging or seeding is complete.

To install plugs at greater distances usually accompanied by over seeding creates difficulty in the long term especially when mowing, as with two grasses present in theory each should be cut at its own 'desired' height.

When developing a new garden one often encounters mature trees as part of the existing landscape; it is therefore important to develop a plan that takes this into consideration.

I have recently noted several cases where regrading has taken place and the trunks of mature trees have been covered to a depth ? in some cases ? of four feet.

It is ? I would have thought ? obvious this is not a correct 'procedure', and will have at some point in time an adverse effect on the said tree; which could be the demise of the tree and also create an exercise when rectifying the problem to 'trespass' established areas.

When this situation is present, levelling should include accepting the existing level of the tree trunk base and gently sloping around the base of the tree, leaving a clear area of twelve to eighteen inches around the trunk.

When creating a plan or just making changes to the landscape consider the long term effects of your 'actions' i.e. your plan, and design with maintenance in mind which should be based on an 'as and when required' approach.