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The Chileans don’t accept Graft

By now nearly all of you have heard the story of how a nasty little root louse called phylloxera spread through most of the world’s vineyards in the latter decades of the 19th century. Vines died and there was great concern for the future of wine until it was discovered that grafting Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and all the classic vines onto native American root stocks solved the problem.

One country was spared, as vines from Europe were taken there before the above happened.

The towering Andes, vast Pacific Ocean, arid Atacama Desert and rugged Patagonia have shielded Chile from all sides. Customs agents are meticulous with myriad questions that they ask when you are entering their country. Vines grow on their own ungrafted rootstocks.

Over the past year we have seen good growth from Chile which I attribute to a very good value/quality ratio. We have just phased out one range of their wines and replaced them with three reds and one white from Root: 1. This winery, in just a few years, has become one of the most asked for Chilean in the USA and their Cabernet Sauvignon takes the top sales spot for this varietal in its price range. All of their vineyards are sustainably farmed and all their reds go through a period of cold maceration.

Cold soaking or cold maceration is a process whereby the fruit soaks before fermentation and some wine makers feel that different and beneficial characteristics, to those extracted during fermentation, are imparted to the juice. All of our Root: 1 wines sell for $12.95.

The Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 is an 85 per cent Cabernet, 15 per cent Syrah blend that is deep garnet in colour with bright reflections. Aromas of ripe berries, cassis, plum and dark cherry are followed by light toasty oak notes. It is smooth with a quite lengthy finish. One rather exuberant publication rated it 95/100 but I would suggest that the International Wine Cellar at 88/100 gives a fairer assessment.

Root: 1 Carmenere shows off “the lost grape of Bordeaux”. The story goes that it was brought over from France in the 1850s and by the time it got to Chile it was mistaken for Merlot. Like Merlot it was considered early ripening and for well over a century it was picked first and therefore unripe.

Chilean “Merlot” was just not very yummy. Finally in the 1990s someone became suspicious and DNA tested the vines and a grape that is hardly planted in Europe anymore was rediscovered. It is now left for a longer hang-time, picked ripe and delicious wines are the result. Discover blackberries, warm spice, plum, cherry and a hint of smoke.

At $12.95 it is not always easy to recognise the unique flavours of Pinot Noir but this is not the case with Root: 1. There are rich aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries and a hint of cherry. It is medium-bodied and quite light in the glass and fresh acidity matches well with grilled fish and shellfish (after all why do you squeeze lemon juice on such dishes).

Root: 1 Sauvignon Blanc has a bright citrus bouquet and juicy tropical aromas. Lime, grapefruit, pineapple and pear flavours are vibrant and fresh.

There is a hint of herbs but not quite at the level found in similar wines from New Zealand. It is delightful and elegant.

These wines have all arrived this week.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.