Robin Zuill finds out where they are going and why.

Think about it. The muffled whoosh of skis cutting through fresh powdery snow.

The smack of crisp clean wind nipping at your cheeks. The feeling of utter solitude amid spectacular mountain views. It's about as far from the reality of Bermuda that you can get. Yet there is a core of people living on the Island who make the trek to ski resorts year after year. And whether it's by word of mouth or an increasing desire for adventure, more and more people are catching the fever. Why? Some say its the thrill of racing down the slopes with the wind in their hair, others say it's simply a matter of getting away from Bermuda's dreary winter months.

"You're up there on the mountains, usually with very few other people, zipping along through the trees. It's incredible. Every once in a while, you have those days when everything goes right, and it's pure magic.'' That's why runner Jeff Payne, father of Olympic luger Simon Payne, has made at least one trip to the slopes every winter for the last eight years.

Bermudians David and Janet Lines have a different reason for taking annual ski holidays. Nineteen years ago they decided the only way to spend some quality time with their four children during Christmas would be to hit the slopes.

"It was such a busy period for David (a senior partner at the accounting firm Cooper & Lines) that we found we weren't spending enough time with the kids.'' Whatever the reason, the options seem endless and the price more or less reasonable, as long as you keep in mind that skiing is an "upmarket'' holiday.

The US - Vermont, New Hampshire, Utah, Nevada, Colorado - continues to be a favourite destination. European resorts, especially Switzerland and France, are becoming increasingly popular among Bermudians looking for a change and perhaps a more challenging run. Canadian resorts are preferred by some -- Whistler in Vancouver has been rated as the number one destination for the 1992-93 ski season. And the newest (and much more expensive) rage among the more advanced is summer skiing in Argentina and Chile, where mountains are higher and more rugged than those in North America and Europe.

Brenda Warwick, who owns Tradewinds Travel, says most ski resorts are total holiday resorts, catering even to those who don't ski.

"We get people from all walks of life buying ski packages,'' she says. "Many of the resorts now have hundreds of things to do - shopping, restaurants, movie theatres, ice shows, etc., and lots of places to stay.

They're wonderful places for non-skiers. "We get a lot of people in here who have never skied before, and some who have never even seen snow. If you're looking for the perfect winter holiday, this is it.'' Tradewinds is the only agency in Bermuda specialising in ski holidays and about 40 percent of Warwick's business is in skiing. Her biggest difficulty in selling ski trips is trying to match the client to the resort. Some want a good time at a ritzy resort, while others want a quiet resort where they can ski and shop, and still others just want to be away from everything, but have comfortable accommodations on the slopes. At most resorts, there is something for everyone. And as impressive as the choice of resorts is the range of price and packages and the variety of people you'll find on the slopes.

Warwick's biggest money-maker is Vail, Colorado, where she lived and worked for several years. "The way of life, summer or winter, is very similar to Bermuda's. It's very European. It's like being in the Alps with all the American conveniences. To sell skiing, it's really what's at the bottom of the hill that counts. Vail is a total resort.'' The Lines family has spent the past two winters skiing in Vail, after one year in Utah, one year at La Plagne in France, several years at Meribel and Courchevel in France, plus trips to Verbier in Switzerland, St. Anton in Austria and other resorts.

"Skiing is such a wonderful family holiday,'' Mrs. Lines says. "Every Christmas we take off with our cassava pie and our presents. We spent many years at Meribel when the kids were young because there are three valleys and such vast areas for skiing. Then a couple of years ago, Europe was not getting the snow and it was becoming very expensive, so we tried Vail.

"I think the difference is that when you're at the top of the mountain in Vail, you can look down and see a highway at the bottom. In Europe, you see a village at the bottom of the hill. "Vail has such a super village and it's very civilised. But I wouldn't say we're going to stick with Vail every year.'' L.P. Gutteridge's Ana McLaughlin says many of her clients prefer to stay away from Vail because prices might run slightly higher than other resorts. Though McLaughlin says the skiing is good there, she prefers resorts that are slightly less "social''. "When I go skiing, I go to ski. Vail is a very social place - most people go there to people-watch.'' This year she's concentrating on selling Park City, Utah; Breckenridge in Colorado; and Whistler in Vancouver. Meyer Agencies' Caroline Mulder says Colorado and Vermont will be her big sellers this season, but adds that Whistler, Banff and Lake Louise, in western Canada are becoming increasing popular. She says many of her Bermudian clients prefer the eastern US - New York, Vermont, and New Hampshire - because its closer and in some cases less expensive than skiing in the west. She adds that discounted fares to the US and parts of Canada are also "pushing'' people to travel. Warwick gives a ball-park figure of $1,500 per person for ski packages in North America and Europe, though she adds that it'll be cheaper to go to resorts in eastern US and Canada, and slightly more expensive for some European ski resorts.

"To give you an example, to go to Utah, it'll cost about $2,905 for two people for seven days. That includes airfare from Bermuda to Salt Lake City, lift passes, pool, hot tub, transportation to and from the airport, shuttle to and from the resort, but doesn't include breakfast or dinner.

"For Whistler, it costs about $2,317 for two people, and includes lift passes, car, airfare ($347 return on Delta), and the resort is right at the mountain.'' No matter what the choice, every resort has its ups and downs. Resorts in the eastern US and Canada are closer and possibly cheaper, but afternoon skiing conditions can be icy and very cold. On the other hand, resorts out west may be slightly more expensive, but the conditions are far better with powdery snow and milder temperatures. Some skiers, though, just plain prefer Europe.

Take Bernard Rattray for instance. Born in Geneva, he practically grew up in the mountains. But now resident on the Island, and with a hectic schedule as investment manager of the Shell Company of Bermuda, skiing isn't quite as accessible to him as it once was. Every year, he still manages to pack in a few trips to the slopes, at least one while visiting his family back home in Switzerland, and possibly another during a trip over to England where his daughter is studying.

"I ski every year,'' he says. "When you live in Switzerland as I did, you ski every weekend. Last year I didn't get to ski enough, so I took my wife and two daughters to Argentina - very nice, very high slopes, no trees, and vast expanses of snow - a good reason to want to ski.'' But why Europe? "The slopes are bigger, the runs are longer, the scenery is superior - there are glaciers and tremendous rock formations that you don't see in North America. And nothing replaces being alone in mountains that are 14,000 feet high. There's a feeling of tremendous freedom. It's almost like a fairy tale world.

"Skiing is a sport, but not in the same sense that golf is a sport. Skiing is also a lifestyle.'' Rattray, 48, has skied mostly in Europe, especially Verbier and Zermatt in Switzerland, but also in western Canada, and the eastern US as well as Utah out west. "If it wasn't for my family in Switzerland, I think I'd go to Colorado, where there is a high level of maintenance on the slopes. North American resorts are much better organised than those in Europe, especially the lift lines. It's a difficult decision for Bermudians who have never skied before.'' Rattray is just one of scores of non-Bermudians working on the Island who take time out for skiing every winter. Restaurateurs Chris and Carol West favour Austria, where they spend several weeks each year at a small resort tucked away in a little mountain town in the region of Tirol. The couple spend their days relaxing and skiing, sometimes cross country to neighbouring villages.

Jeff Payne also prefers Europe. "The mountains are so vast, and the snow is so good. So is the ambiance.'' Though he rates himself as an intermediate skier, he keeps hitting the slopes every year, in hopes he'll only get better. "It's partly the challenge. I want to be good at it, and I'm not good. So I keep going backfor more practice.'' HOW MUCH WILL IT COST? Below is a sample of some of the world's most popular ski resorts. Many resorts offer packages that include airfare, while many also offer ski lesson packages for everyone from children and beginners to mogul masters. Check with your travel agent for details.

Note: Prices are US$ per adult based on twin occupancy and do not include meals or airfare from Bermuda unless stated. Prices correct at press time but are subject to change.

VAIL, COLORADO Airfare between Bermuda and Denver is about $548 per person, with a $70 return transfer from Denver Airport to Vail.

TOP OF THE RANGE: Seven nights at the brand new European-style Bavaria Haus at the Sonnenalp Resort for two people in a demi-suite $2,030, ($145 per person per night or $290 per couple per night), or $2,730 ($195 per person per night or $390 per couple per night) for a one-bedroom suite. That rate, which runs January 2 through April 3, includes full breakfast.

Facilities at the Sonnenalp, located in the heart of Vail Village, include five restaurants, spa and beauty shop, outdoor hot tubs and outdoor heated pool.

MID-LOWER RANGE: Seven nights at the less expensive, and smaller 50-room Tivoli Lodge, in the centre of Vail Village and at the bottom of Vail Mountain, runs from about $1,015 for two people (or about $72.50 per person per night), including continental breakfast. The Tivoli is within one block of four chairlifts, and has an outdoor pool right next to an outdoor hot tub.

SKI LIFT PASSES: $41 per adult per day, and $29 per child 12 years and under per day.

SKI CLOTHING: Can cost up to $150 per day for ski jacket, pants, gloves, and goggles, or about $20 per day for just one piece.

WHISTLER LACKCOMB, VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA Airfare between Bermuda and Vancouver is regularly about $430.50 return, but Delta Airlines is running a special deal for $347 return.

TOP OF THE RANGE: Seven nights at The Marquise, offering one-bedroom condominiums on the slopeside of Blackcomb Mountain, runs from about $798 per person (or $114 per person per night). The Marquise, which opened in March 1990, is a 10-minute walk to Whistler Village. Facilities include outdoor heated pool, indoor hot tub, and shuttle service.

MID-LOWER RANGE: Seven nights at the Blackcomb Lodge runs at about $728 per person (or $104 per person per night). Blackcomb Lodge is located in the heart of the village just a short walk to the lift facilities for Blackcomb and Whistler. That rate runs from February 11 through March 31.

Seven nights at the Whistler Creek Lodge, right across from the gondola at the base of Whistler Mountain, starts at about $630 per person (or $90 per person per night), from February 11 through March 17. Seven nights, from March 18 through April 30, runs at about $469 per person (or $67 per person per night).

SKI LIFT PASSES: $160 for both mountains for five days' skiing out of six.

MERIBEL, FRANCE Airfare between Bermuda and London is $588 return. TOP OF THE RANGE: The Chalet Cecilia, located right on the piste, runs about $727 per person, including air fare from London, and meals prepared by a live-out chalet girl.

It accommodates up to 12 people.

The Chalet Cecilia sits between the Plateau de Morel and Altitude 1600, with views over the valley. Visitors can ski right from the chalet door.

MID-RANGE: Airfare from London, plus seven nights' accommodations at the Chalet Apartment Petaru in the heart of Meribel Village starts at $603 per person for six people. That price also includes meals, prepared by a live-out chalet girl.

SKI LIFT PASSES: Six days skiing on Meribel costs about $150, while passes for all three mountains costs about $180 per person for six days. Packages priced by Tradewinds Travel.

GEARING UP Ski gear can be rented at most resorts but if you want to get kitted out before you go, Sportseller in Washington Mall is now bringing in Columbia skiwear. Tradewinds also sells and rents secondhand skiwear. Packages priced by Tradewinds Travel.

Above, on the slopes in upstate New York. Left, the unbeatable scenery of Grindewald, Switzerland.

RG MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 1993