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New skin treatment could reverse effects of UV ray overexposure

All may not be lost for Bermuda's sun worshippers whose skin has suffered thanks to their love of a deep tan, according to a New York beauty expert.

Howard Kaminsky, from skincare line B. Kamins, was recently on the Island to launch a new treatment here which he claims can really help to reverse the effects of overexposure to UV rays.

The "power peel" procedure, now available for the first time at the Fairmont Southampton's Willowstream Spa, uses lactic and salicylic acids to slough off damaged skin cells and improve appearance.

Mr. Kaminsky told The Royal Gazette: "It gives instant results. Now what we are seeing more and more is results-orientated kind of treatments. It's grown out of the fact that spa-goers want results. What we are doing this time is really taking it a little further.

"It's OK to ask for results. It's a different generation today — everybody wants to look younger."

He explained: "The thought process behind peels is that you need to 'turnover' your skin. What happens is that as you age, your turnover slows down. As you age, more and more you want to expedite that whole cycle."

But while the peel can help alleviate problems such as hyper-pigmentation and dark spots caused by sun exposure, it can also increase the risk of sun damage if users don't properly protect themselves afterwards.

Mr. Kaminsky acknowledged that the chemical peel — known as an alpha-beta peel because it uses alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids — is not for everyone, particularly those with fair and sensitive skins.

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says products containing alpha-hydroxy acid increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun and heighten the chance of sunburn.

The agency warns: "Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards."

Mr. Kaminsky said: "With any kind of peel you have to be careful of the sun. As you exfoliate you are making yourself more susceptible to sun exposure and sunburns. It's very important afterwards if you go out to protect your skin."

He said people living in hot countries like Bermuda need to be very aware of the harmful effects of sun on skin.

"In my opinion, sun does damage, no matter which way you look at it. Sun and smoking are the worst things for your skin. If you want to improve your skin, stop smoking and stay out of the sun."

He added: "But there is reality and this is Bermuda. What I'm saying is use SPF when you go outside, wear a hat and protect yourself. I was out there at the pool today but I was under an umbrella and I was covered. I use a factor 48 but I'm very fair-skinned. [Factor] 30 should be the minimum."

Mr. Kaminsky said the phrase "chemical peel" may sound a little intimidating but can have big benefits for those with premature wrinkles, lines, or acne.

"Done properly, there is no reason to be frightened of it," he said. "What this is, it's a doctor-type treatment being done in a spa, responsibly, without injections."

The peel complies with the FDA's advice that products containing alpha hydroxy acid have a concentration of ten percent or less.

"We have been doing it for a number of years in the States," said Mr. Kaminsky, adding that many different skin types, including rosacea, are suitable for the procedure.

He stressed that treatments like the peel are only one element in the regime people, particularly those in sunny climates, need to adopt to protect and preserve their skin.

Mr. Kaminskysaid: "I like to compare skincare and taking care of yourself to oral hygiene. You have to brush and floss all the time. The same thing with skincare."

He added: "I strongly recommend feeding or nourishing the skin from the inside out. Deficiencies in one's diet manifest on the skin in many ways — increased inflammation, altered immune response and cell destruction.

"Scientific findings indicate that a number of chronic and damaging skin problems such as acne and rosacea are linked to diet, either directly or indirectly. Making adjustments in your diet, even small ones, can have a significant impact on the appearance of your skin. It's probably one of the easiest ways to improve the look and feel of your skin."

Antioxidants, found mainly in fruit and vegetables, are skin's best friend, said Mr. Kamins. "They have the ability to fight 'free radicals' — unstable compounds that attack human cells and damage DNA.

"Damaged skin cells can lead to accelerated ageing in the form of wrinkles, dry skin, dark circles under eyes, dull skin and more.

"Skin naturally uses antioxidants to defend itself from damage by UV-induced oxidation. Over time, overexposure to the sun and ageing can deplete the body's natural antioxidant content that normally protects the skin.

"Skin care products containing antioxidant protection can supplement those depleted in the body to infuse the outer layer of the epidermis with protection to fight free radicals. Examples of some powerful antioxidants include açai, blueberry, pomegranate, alpha lipoic acid, Vitamin E, Vitamin C and green tea extract."

• The B.Kamins power peel is available at Willowstream as a $40 add-on to a facial or massage. Call 239-6924.