An Arizona escape
WE all have our own personal way of dealing with trauma in our lives . . . the travail and injustices that are increasingly part of modern life when dealing with people who lack ethics and basic morality.
There was a time I wondered about the judgment of Irish monks who escaped the world by living in caves along their country's tempestuous and temperamental coast. Now, after the disappointment of being unjustly betrayed by some particularly evil people, I'm not so sure!
Some seek refuge at sea's edge along solitary coves and inlets. Others prefer to lose themselves in centres of activity surrounded by people to distract their thoughts.
Personally, I've always headed deep into the mountains as far away from the world as possible in an effort to put both trivia and trivial people into proper perspective.
Which is why I'm writing this from the same mountains where both Geronimo and Cochise "holed up" when they wanted to be alone. I've had the good fortune to spend time among Apaches in my lifetime and learned some valuable life's lessons about survival from them. Both went onto the pages of history for their resistance to the overwhelming influx of settlers intent on confiscating their land and forcefully changing their way of life against their will.
Next time you feel the urge to rediscover tranquillity and solace, consider some of Arizona's outback. Its blending of high desert and isolated peaks stretching to the horizon are nature's tranquilliser, truly a place to recharge those batteries and attempt to regain your faith in humanity . . . or at least part of it.
No, you don't have to stay out in the bush to absorb that mountain mood . . . but there are a number of possibilities if that's your preference . . . everything from secluded ranches to log cabins, with a sprinkling of sleek resorts between. We'll talk about some of them later. But it's also possible to stay in places like Tucson, Scottsdale, Sedona and Wickenburg plus a long list of others and easily visit some remarkable easily accessible sites on day trips.
NORMALLY, I'd start with one of my personal favourites . . . Skeleton Canyon where Geronimo eventually surrendered in 1886. But that little-changed slice of scenery, often used by outlaws like Tombstones' Clantons and lively border smugglers using this route with its easy access to Mexico, is now unsafe for travel. The US border patrol told us a few years ago to avoid it if we preferred not becoming victims of illegals crossings through there from countries around the world.
Another personal favourite nearby does remain open and is so rugged illegals and drug dealers normally avoid it. An unpaved, sometimes discouragingly narrow route leads up across Chiricahua National Monument, once a favourite Apache hideout.
It's famous for its unique rock formations and dramatic vistas and we've managed to get into a fair amount of trouble here. Not along the park's road, but by detouring off along the old North Fork Road weaving back up an ever-narrowing trail to the southern entrance of a copper-silver mine in which my grandfather was an owner.
That route was bypassed many years ago in favour of an easier eastern route to another entrance to the mine. But crawling over old mine tailing piles looking for unusual ore samples originally overlooked has been a lifelong interest. So much so that my father had to put overload springs on any car we ever owned to allow for hauling back rocks!
Unfortunately, the rule to always make local inquiries does not promise any guarantees, but do pursue it nevertheless and ask more than one source. On several occasions, we've asked BLM (Bureau of Land Management) personnel and National Park Rangers if four-wheel-drive roads were in safe condition and been wrongly told: "Absolutely, yes." Last time, we accepted their word that a storm causing serious road washouts elsewhere had not damaged the North Fork and were lucky to get out alive . . . and that's no exaggeration. The nightmare experience was so nearly disastrous that we actually stopped renting four-wheel drives for one whole year just to stay away from such temptation!
Rather than venturing too far back-of-the-beyond, you can keep to the main highway in places where there's plenty of scenery. We're going to resist sending you down our most treasured favourites because they also tend to be the most challenging.
Let's start by heading down from Tucson on Route 19 with a detour over to beautifully restored Mission San Xavier del Bac, the "White Dove of the Desert" on the Tohono O'odham Indian Reservation. It was originally started in 1700 and much of what visitors see today dates to 1783 when Franciscan friars created this unique example of "Mexican folk baroque" architecture.
Because of a lack of traditional building materials like marble and tile, builders imaginatively created remarkable imitations. It's complete with an interesting museum, gift shop and many craft shops across from the parking area.
Head back on the highway, a wide dual-lane route, with mountains stretching as far as the eye can see. Next stop just before reaching Green River is the Titan Missile Base. This, too, is a worthy stop where visitors can view the last remaining such base in the United States. Originally 54 of these massive underground facilities existed, but were deactivated as part of the SALT treaty.
But this one, after complicated international negotiations, was allowed to remain as a museum and you will find it fascinating. It's not every day one has the opportunity to visit a nuclear missile silo. It does take a fair amount of steps down into the depths and back up again. The 110-foot-tall missile weighs 170 tons when fuelled and ready to fly to a target up to 8,000 miles away. Incredible.
Now designated a National Historic Landmark, it was top-secret and totally off-limits from 1963 to 1982. Guides lead visitors through the massive underground facility and the countdown procedure and safety controls are explained. There are also a number of interesting displays above ground as well as a gift shop. The nearby Green River area is emerging as a prime retirement area, with winter home rentals available, plus a number of overnight facilities including a new Baymount Inn and Suites.
If you're looking for an away-from-the-world kind of place to stay, consider The Tubac Golf Resort, originally an investment of actor-crooner Bing Crosby. Although I've not yet settled in for a lengthy visit, I've carefully inspected the property several times with an eye on a week's stay some time soon, now that my border wilderness favourites are overrun with armed drug dealers and illegal immigrants.
Meals in its western-style dining room offer gorgeous picture-window views of the Santa Rita Mountains and the mood is very special. There are cottages, casitas, even private homes all built on grounds of the golf course.
ONE of this property's great advantages is its accessibility to historic Tubac. Now an artists' colony populated with an ever-growing number of shops, restaurants and art galleries, it's full of shopping temptations along with a heavy dose of history.
The Spanish built a Presidio there in 1752, but by the time America took over after the Gadsen Purchase of 1854 it had decayed into adobe ruins. Today an interesting museum recalls the area's lively past and former Presidio grounds are now a state park. Lunch on the outdoor, walled patio of Hacienda de Tubac is tasty, frozen margaritas super-sized. Since you're only 45 miles south of Tucson, it's very popular on weekends.
Speaking of shopping, Nogales is only 20 miles south. There was a time looking for crafts there was fun, but recent border problems have made street hawkers a bit too aggressive. Being constantly pursued and pressured by merchants understandably anxious to make a sale on something you don't like, don't want and have no interest in carrying home, even if given to you, was getting a bit too overwhelming. On the last few trips we've avoided it and are trying to decide whether to go there next week.
For something totally different, very worthwhile and so impressive it's part of America's National Park system, allow time for Tumacacori National Historical Park. Started by Spanish missionaries in 1800, work proceeded slowly and wasn't in use until 1822; it offers an authentic glimpse of life lived by local Indians through informative exhibits.
There's a circular mortuary chapel, cemetery, some original Santos and a variety of structures recalling hardships of frontier life. Mexican and Indian craft demonstrations are shown on weekends.
You've been surrounded by mountains in every direction all along this route. By now you might be tempted to drive up into them on a very scenic, but non-challenging paved road. If so, on the way back watch for the turn-off to Madera Canyon near Continental (Exit 63) a few miles south of Green Valley.
It's about 13 miles up to the end of the road. For hikers, their goal is Mount Wrightson, at 9,453 feet the highest point in the Santa Rita Mountains. Only 38 miles south of Tucson, it's a popular destination with those anxious to escape summer's heat.
When the route crosses Santa Cruz Valley, you'll be driving across a desert landscape of octillo and mesquite, but they're soon replaced by juniper, oak, pine and a variety of birds and wildlife that attract nature-seekers.
There are some very nice individual cabins there in a forest setting. But at this altitude where nightly temperatures are chilly in winter, they're most popular in spring, summer and autumn.
There are so many possibilities for exploration in Arizona, it's a lifetime undertaking. We usually visit the state twice a year and repeat a lot of old favourites like The Navajo Nation, Grand Canyon and Canyon de Chelly in the north to Fort Huachuca, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument and Yuma along its southern border with Sedona, Globe, Jerome and Flagstaff in between.
But every year we also explore something different. Apache-owned lands offer worthwhile recreational facilities from skiing to fishing . . . and wonders like Rainbow Bridge, Pipe Springs National Monument and Window Rock have their own appeal. Each offers exactly the kind of backroad wonders my whole family has always found irresistible.
BUT you don't have to be a back-of-the-beyond explorer type to enjoy the state's beauty. Next week we'll settle into Tucson, visit some special shops and explore the wealth of attractions too numerous for any traveller to see on just one trip. And in every direction you'll find roads leading to mountain vistas enjoyed on day trips an easy drive from the city centre.
Travel factfile: Tubac Golf Resort (880) 848-7893 or (520) 398-2211; www.tubacgolfresort.com. Forty-six de luxe units decorated in contemporary Southwestern decor, set on 400 acres. Rates are seasonal and a one-room posada $90 Monday through Thursday and $100 weekends. A two-room casita is $120 weekdays, $130 weekends and kitchenettes $135 weekdays, $145 weekends. High season, January 10 to April 13, rates increase from a bottom range of $140 for a one-room posada up to $195 for kitchenette casita. Morning golf rates are now $46.
Santa Rita Lodge Nature Resort - (520) 625-8746; fax (502) 648-1186; www.santaritalodge.com - www.maderacanyon.net. Both cabins and rooms available, with $10 increase weekends. Rates range from $60 to $83 now; high season attracting bird watchers begins February to May at $88 to $98 per unit.
Titan Missile Base - (420) 625-7736. Hours 9 a.m.with tours on the half hour, last tour at 4 p.m. Admission $7.50 adults, seniors 62 and military 6.50, children 7 to 12 $4.
Green Valley Chamber of Commerce - (880) 858-5872, (520) 625-7576 and 7594. www.green-valleyazchamber.com