WHEN America's Cup participants dock in Valencia this spring, Spain should certainly seem an appropriate destination.It was from ports of this fabled mariners' land that adventurous explorers set sail centuries ago to discover far corners of an unknown world.

Modern-day travellers have some surprises in store when they arrive for this event. And, incidentally, it's expected to attract many visitors if the enthusiasm of yacht club commodores is any indication.

In late summer, we met a sizeable group of them who had converged from around North America at the Chicago Yacht Club. The event was a detailed presentation by Valencia officials outlining plans for the prestigious event.

Not only those usually enthused by the excitement of America's Cup itself are expected, but also Europeans lured by the fact it's happening on that continent for the first time since the event was organised in 1851.

In a feverish competition not unlike bidding for the Olympic Games, Valencia came away with the honours. Fifty-six other candidates, ranging from Barcelona and Marseilles to Palma de Majorca and Cascais, sought that privileged.

For starters, this sunny Mediterranean coast boasts 300 days of sunshine annually and is noted for reliable sailing conditions. As an added incentive, they've built a new 700-berth marina and spent millions not only enhancing the port, but the entire city as well. And the attractions of this lesser-known slice of scenic Spain will definitely surprise first-time visitors. BUT first a bit of history, already known by Bermuda sailing enthusiasts. The first competition was held way back in 1851 when it was known as the Hundred Guinea Cup and immediately captured captured the sporting world's imagination.It takes its current name from the schooner America which outraced the best of Britain's fleet racing around the Isle of Wight. Queen Victoria was among spectators at Cowes. Intended to foster friendly competition between nations, it's remained in the headlines for 31 challenges.

The New York Yacht Club sailed off with the trophy until 1983. Then>Australia II broke into headlines as the winner. Last time's victor was the Swiss Alinghi, which is reason why the event is returning to Europe for the first time since it started.

With Lake Lucerne Switzerland's largest body of water, and official rules indicating America's Cup can only be conducted in salt water, the competition to select a suitable alternative approved by the winner was as lively as the race itself.

This time around promises to be more exciting than ever. The grand finale will be preceded by a series of match race events leading up to the grand finale from June 23 to July7. Many are set for April, May and June. See www.Americas Cup.com.

Names such as Sir Thomas Lipton, along with assorted Rockellers, Vanderbilts and Ted Turner, have been attracted to competitions. It's all very high excitement. But for those who simply come to watch, not participate, Valencia has much to offer.

Although this traveller had explored much of Spain, this coastal region was the exception. It first attracted my attention thanks to author James Michener. We'd met for the second time on a transatlantic crossing on thI>QEII in October 1986.

Over lunch one day when seas were particularly tempestuous, the very personable, always modest author reminisced about his years as a merchant seaman before becoming a writer.

He was seated in front of a large picture window and as the ship pitched and rolled from side to side, it seemed ever closer to the water before righting itself. By now, on what was to become an infamous last crossing before the old boilers were replaced, the ship had disabled stabilisers and propellers were in trouble.

"I haven't encountered seas like this since we transported oranges from Valencia, Spain to Dundee, Scotland for use in making marmalade. En route to Scotland we ran into really rough seas," he said.

Michener, of course, loved Spain and I'd told him his book Iberia (a series of vignettes about that country) was one of his works this traveller especially enjoyed.

How is Valencia different from any other part of Spain? Like all that travel-worthy country, it has a fabled past. Romans created a settlement there as Valentia in 138 BC, intending it as a place for their soldiers to retire in a comfortable climate.

No one since has disputed their choice of the semitropical climate was a wise one. They were followed by the Visigoths, the 500 years of occupation by the Moors.

An ancient system huertas (irrigation canals) created a fertile land and groves of those famous oranges, lemons and pomegranates line roads. So mild is the climate that there are multiple annual harvests.

Tourists soon learn about another of the major crops — rice. Outdoor restaurants and sidewalk cafes throughout the region, from quiet villages to town ports, specialise in serving the dish that originated here — paella. And few tourists can resist returning home with their own unusual paella pan and a collection of recipes.

Another sweet taste treat is turron, a nougat candy made from ground almonds, sugar, honey and egg whites. It's easy to become addicted, but you do so at the risk of getting to know your dentists too well!DECORATIVE fans are another traditional Valencia product and a hand-made one has often accompanied me to church on a super-sizzling Sunday. Look for them in the old town around Plaza de La Reina and Calle San Vincent.Battles, including those by El Cid to recapture it from the Moors, and the Spanish Civil War, fought fiercely here in one of the last Republican holdouts, ravaged the city. A historic centre still survives, surrounded by a modern city created by some of Europe's m avant garde architects.

Yet there is indeed something here for all interests and the variety is definitely eclectic, ranging with the 13th-century cathedral that claims to contain the Holy Grail, to Gothic Lonja de La Seda, the Silk Exchange declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It recalls the importance of silk in the early Valencia economy and fabric there remains exceptional.

The list of museums is too long to detail, but very worthy, covering everything from a military one to the crypt of St. Vincent.

Valencia has always been noted for its ceramics and porcelain, and many treasured pieces are displayed in local museums and shops. The three Lladro brothers started making their creations in the 1950s and visiting their Lladro museum and exhibition centre offers a two-hour guided tour by pre- arrangement.

A wealth of nature reserves stretches out along the coast and deep into interior mountain areas, all of which makes the pursuit of hiking, bird watching, mountaineering, riding and rafting popular.

With so many miles of shoreline, there's expected emphasis on waterborne action, from windsurfing and sailing to fishing and water skiing. Cruiser rentals are available during the America's Cup.

Just type in Valencia, Spain and you'll find a wealth of information. www.comunitatvalenciana.com is one possibility, another is Aboutvalencia.com. An abundance of gold courses also lures golfers from around Europe.

Where to stay? As Spain's third largest city, every kind of accommodation is available, many four- and five-star, even marine resorts. There are more than 100 hotels with 12,000 beds.

And if you prefer solitude of country life, there are plenty of small country houses and hotels to choose from in villages where lifestyles are a century removed from city life.

A unique tradition handed down from the third century, when originated by King Jaime I, is the Water Court. At midday each Thursday, any disputes or rules involving the area's intensive huertas irrigation system are resolved in an outdoor meeting at the Apostles Door of the Cathedral.

[o] Next week: Deciding what to write about . . . or not write about

Valencia gears up for America’s Cup