Greeks, of love to Italians, and a royal herb to many rulers -- has been steeped in symbolism since ancient times.

Egyptians traditionally combined basil with incense and myrrh in offerings to their gods; it was also among the substances used to embalm the dead.

Legends reveal the early Christian religious significance of basil.

St. Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine, was told in a vision that she would find the True Cross in a place where the air was sweet with perfume; she discovered it under a basil patch.

Today basil plays a part in Indian religious observances and funerals.

Basil is a native of India and is considered to be a sacred plant consecrated to Vishnu, a Hindu god worshipped as the Preserver.

Basil, derived from the Greek basil ikon, means "kingly''. Custom once demanded that the king himself cut the first basil of the season with a golden sickle, iron being too base a metal for "the royal herb''.

Ancient Greeks and Romans stamped their feet and cursed while sowing the royal herb, which was also strongly associated with two distinctly different phases of life: death and love.

Basil was a sign of mourning for the Greeks while the Romans classified basil, jasmine and the rose as lovers' emblems. In Italy, young girls displayed pots of basil in their windows to signal their Romeos.

Keats' poem Isabella, inspired by a Boccacio story, blends elements of love and death: Isabella driven insane by the murder of her lover, buries his head in a pot of basil and cries, "For cruel 'tis...to steal my Basil-pot away from me.'' For over 1,500 years this pungent herb, related to mint, has been used to season numerous dishes.

Chrysippos, a Greek physician-botanist of the fifth century, described basil as one of his favourite seasonings. The Romans used it in bouquets garnis , and the Byzantines flavoured their sauces with it.

The royal herb reached France during the Middle Ages. Through the 19th century, street vendors in Paris would call, "I have handsome basil!'' During the 16th century, basil reached England where it remained popular for a while; all the herbalists listed it. However, English turtle soup is the only native dish known today which demonstrates basil's short-lived favour in England.

Other international dishes featuring basil include the pesto of Genoa which became the pistou of Provence, and the Ugoslav national chicken soup, tchorba.

Basil's pungent flavour seasons numerous dishes made with tomatoes, cheese and eggs. One unusual use of the herb in powdered form is as a kind of snuff.

In Morocco, basil plants appear around doors and windows as a mosquito repellent.

There are two basic types of basil: sweet basil, which grows almost inconspicuous pairs of greenish-white flowers, and bush basil, a compact plant which smells of lemon and spice.

Among the other basil varieties are Dark Opal, a prize-winning beauty with purple leaves and lavender flowers, planted for its ornamental value, and purple bush basil, an excellent variety for basil-based vinegars.

Here are some recipes using basil: PESTO SAUCE 3 lge. garlic cloves 2 tbsp. pine nuts 1 cup packed basil leaves 2-3 sprigs summer savoury (optional) 1 cup Parmesan cheese freshly grated Olive oil Salt IN a mortar or heavy bowl, pound the garlic into a smooth puree. Add pine nuts and continue pounding to an even paste. Add herbs (stripped of stems or ribs) and mash to a puree. Mix in spoonfuls of cheese and oil until sauce is of good body.

Pesto is usually required to be of mayonnaise consistency. Taste for salt.

Makes about 1 cup.

Note: To make Pesto in a machine: Place garlic, nuts, herbs, and 2 tablespoons of oil in blender or food processor. When pureed, continue alternate additions of oil and cheese to build the sauce. Machine pesto is always somewhat lighter then handmade.

ZUCCHINI AND BASIL GRATIN 4 medium zucchini Olive oil 1 large tomato, seeded and sliced Salt and pepper 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 1 cups whipping cream 20 basil leaves For garnish: additional Parmesan WASH, trim and cut zucchini lengthwise in 1 -inch thick slices. Salt and leave to drain for 30 minutes. Pat slices dry, then fry in olive oil until crisply browned. Drain zucchini on paper towels to absorb extra oil.

Lightly oil a gratin dish. Spread a layer of zucchini on the bottom, then a layer of tomato slices. Season with salt and pepper.

Stir cheese and cream together. Pour half over the tomatoes and press basil into the cream. Add another layer of zucchini and cover with remaining cream.

Grate more Parmesan on top and put to bake in a 350 degree F. oven until nicely browned (about 30 minutes). Serves 4 to 6.

CHICKEN AND PEAS WITH HERBED MUSHROOM SAUCE Marinade 1 cup white wine 2 tsp. crushed garlic 1 tsp. sweet basil 1 tsp. summer savory 1 tsp. salt 2 tbsp. chopped parsley Freshly ground black pepper 1 1 lbs.

chicken breast, boned and skinned 1 1 cups fresh peas Sauce 3 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 tbsp. chopped shallots 1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms 1 cup heavy cream COMBINE all marinade ingredients in a bowl. Add chicken breasts. Set aside for 30 minutes.

Fill bottom of a large steamer with enough water to come within 1 inch of the steamer pan ( bain Marie ), making sure that the water does not touch the pan when brought to a full boil. Cover steamer and heat water to boiling.

Reserve marinade, and place chicken breasts in the steamer pan, together with the peas. Cover, and steam for 10 minutes.

Heat butter in a saucepan. Add shallots and mushrooms; cook for 5 minutes.

Pour marinade into the saucepan; heat to boiling.

Reduce heat, add cream and cook for a few minutes until thickened.

Remove chicken and peas from the steamer pan and arrange them on a warm serving platter. Pour the sauce over the chicken and peas, and serve at once.

Serves 4.

HERBY HAMBURGERS 1 lb. lean ground beef 1 egg, lightly beaten 2 tsp. equal parts basil, sweet marjoram, thyme and lovage or smallage leaves 1 tbsp. chopped parsley 1 tsp. salt Black pepper 1 tsp. soy saude 1 large onion, minced 2 tbsp. butter Approx. 1 cup breadcrumbs MIX meat, eggs, herbs, salt and pepper and soy sauce together in a large bowl.

Saute onion in butter until golden. Stir into meat mixture. Add enough breadcrumbs to hold mix together. Shape into flattened patties and broil or barbecue until cooked through (about 5 minutes each side). Serve on a seeded bun with crisp lettuce, fresh tomato and mayonnaise.

Multi-purpose Basil.