What makes a good town crier? "Knowing when to say nothing!'' So says Steve Cunliffe, Town Crier of Dawlish near Exeter, England, who is participating in Bermuda's first-ever international competition this week.

And he should know. As one of only seven surviving town criers who has attended every world competition, Mr. Cunliffe is a former Devon champion who also holds a Best Dressed award.

"There is a fine line between getting it just right, and going over the top,'' he explains. "Knowing when to say nothing makes all the difference.'' While being a town crier in today's fast-paced communications world may seem an anachronism, in actual fact these colourful characters are not only popular but very busy people.

Some, like Canada's Daniel Richer dit Lafle oche, are full-time criers, while others combine their vocal duties with regular careers. All, however, take their roles very seriously indeed -- and small wonder, because they cannot just don a fancy costume, grab a hand bell, and start "proclaiming''.

"In order to become a recognised town crier you have to be appointed by a municipality and sworn in by a mayor or a lord of the manor,'' Mr. Cunliffe explains, "To become a member of the Ancient and Honourable Guild of Town Criers, you must first serve two years as a postulant.'' As with most "ancient and honourable'' traditions, town criers conform to certain criteria, perform specific duties, and also obey rules in competitions.

Their insignia (as the official outfits are known) are not simply eye-catching, theatrical props, but the result of carefully researched, historical references. In some cases, even the fabrics from which they are made have historical significance.

Briton Andy Lowe of Whitby, North Yorkshire wears a magnificent blue insignia with the town's Coat of Arms embroidered both on the back of his coat and scroll.

"I had to have special permission to wear the Coat of Arms, since by Royal Charter it can only be used by the Mayor,'' he explains, "and the fabric has been especially dyed in genuine Whitby blue, as featured in the coat of arms.'' The brilliant green of Nailsworth, Gloucesteshire, England town crier Tony Evans' insignia is not only made from the same baize which covers snooker tables, but also reflects the fact that nearby Stroud not only made this fabric as well as the scarlet used in the uniforms of Britain's Grenadier Guards from the time of George III.

Similarly, the fabric in Canadian John Webster's insignia is the same as that used in the famed red, ceremonial jacket of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police.

While many insignia are flamboyant, others, such Belgian Willy van de Putte's neatly tailored jacket and trousers, are very conservative.

"My insignia dates back to the time when the town crier was also the policeman,'' he explains, "so it is an exact replica of what he wore.'' In fact, many insignia bear reference to the military, from which the original town criers were drawn.

Mr. Richer dit Lafle oche, on the other hand, has a large wardrobe of insignia some of whose origins lie elsewhere, including the court of French King Louis XIV.

Harking back to the days before Gutenberg invented the printing press and thus paved the way for the obsolescence of town criers as the news source of the day, today's men and women perform a variety of duties, both ceremonial and romantic.

They make official proclamations, welcome heads of state, precede mayors at special functions, and can also be called upon to make declarations of love and wedding proposals on behalf of a lady or gentleman, as well as birth announcements and more.

In his 18 years as Ontario and Quebec senior town crier, Mr. Richer dit Lafle oche has welcomed both Queen Elizabeth and Gorbachev to his native Canada, and has cried many romantic messages and marriage proposals. He also lectures in schools on the history of town criers, and is a North American championship winner.

Inevitably, the question arises: Was any marriage proposal rejected? "One,'' he relates. "It was in a crowded Montreal restaurant, and the whole place stopped to watch. After I read out the proposal and asked for her response she said `Can't'. Unfortunately, the crowd heard it as `Can', the band started playing, the champagne cork popped, and the would-be fiance m was beside himself. I bent down and whispered, `Did you say can or can't?' and she replied `Can't -- married'. It turned out the lady had a husband and family in Toronto. She had been going out with the guy in Montreal for three years and he never knew. Fortunately, I got paid in advance!'' There is, however, no deception among the 16 town criers taking part in the Bermuda competition. Most have known each other for years through various international events, and constantly exchange good-natured, humorous banter as only good friends can.

"He's only here to make the rest of us look good,'' jokes one of a colleague.

"What you see here are the cre ome de la cre ome of town criers. It was a very selective process that brought us here: you had to get your application in pronto!'' "This happened one day through standing in line at the bank,'' jokes Markham, Canada town crier John Webster, seven times North American champion, of his luxurious white beard. Then, referring to the silver medal won at a world competition, he puns of missing the gold by four points: "I was within shouting distance.'' Jokes aside, the town criers bring not only a wealth of experience to competitions, but also often hold important office in other spheres.

David Morgan, for example, is the Mayor of Florenceville, New Brunswick, and has served on the municipal council for 20 years. Married to Ethel for 31 years, he has been town crier since 1984, and lists a choir, barbershop group, and home shower among the venues where he sings.

Town criers descend on Bermuda Australia, which is twinned with Whitby, and has won national, British, Guild, Lancashire and Warwickshire championships in his ten-year career.

Both Tony Evans and his wife are former mayors of Nailsworth, England, which is twinned with Le nves in France, where Mr. Evans is also the official town crier -- in French, and he has competed in many competitions worldwide. A toolmaker by profession, he served on his local council for 30 years.

While most folk think of town criers as people blessed with an exceptional ability to shout, the perception is false.

"Town criers don't shout and they don't scream, they cry,'' explains St.

George's town crier, E. Michael Jones, winner of the Commonwealth championship in 1998 and 1999, as well as a host of Best Dressed and other awards. "If volume was important, then we would all be called town yellers. It isn't necessary just to be loud, but rather to be loud and understood.'' Ah yes ... understood. What, indeed, would be the point of being a town crier if your message was incomprehensible? While town criers don't undergo special voice training, Mr. Richer dit Lafle oche, a former opera singer, says proper use of the diaphragm is vital in projecting the voice, and Mr. Jones agrees.

"The key to town crying is going up as high as you can without straining. You have to go up, find your level, and stay there. You have to do it from the diaphragm, otherwise you lose your voice,'' he explains.

Interestingly, women are also successful town criers and competition winners, proving volume has nothing to do with the size of the vocal chords.

Of course, Bermuda's own, late Bob Burns' remains a legend among town criers all over the world, not least because his record decibels have ensured him a thus-far unsurpassed place in the Guinness Book of Records for having the loudest male voice in the world.

"Wherever you go in the world people still remember him,'' says Steve Cunliffe. "I don't think anybody wants to beat his record either. It should stand.'' Small wonder, then, that the Bermuda competition kicks off with a Bob Burns memorial cry on Ordnance Island this afternoon.

Apart from the late Mr. Burns, there are historic connections between two of the visiting town criers and the Island.

Phillip Street is from Lyme Regis in Dorset, England which is twinned with St.

George's. The British coastal town is where Sir George Somers was once mayor, as well as MP for west Dorset.

Mr. Street's insignia is based on a 16th century seafarer's uniform, and he has won the Dorset town criers' championships as well as placing fourth in international championships.

Whitby, where Mr. Lowe is town crier, is a port from which Sir George Somers sailed. It is also where the infamous Captain Cook sailed away in Endeavour , and where the book Count Dracula was written.

While all of the visiting town criers are men, the wives are also involved as escorts who don complementary period costumes and share official appearances with their spouses.

And are they all having a good time? Oyez, oyez, oyez! Photos by Arthur Bean Now hear this! Chairman of the Ancient & Honourable Guild of Town Criers, Peter Dauncy (left) is joined by (from left) fellow town criers Andy Lowe, Phillip Street, Willy van der Putte and John Webster in ringing out the news on the Town Square in St. George's. They are here for Bermuda's first international town criers competition, which begins today.

COMPETITION CPN