COLE'S COOKING A TO Z– by Annette Gooch

Leftover bits of natural cheese are too good and too valuable to be tossed out or left to mould at the back of the refrigerator.

If cheese is worth keeping, there's a good chance it's worth freezing.

Many varieties can be frozen with good results, but in general, the lower the moisture content — the drier and firmer the cheese — the more successfully it freezes.

In fact, the best-keeping cheeses are the firm grating varieties such as well-aged Asiago, Grana Padano, Pecorino Romano and Parmesan, all of which can be frozen for up to four months with good results.

If you're fortunate enough to have an extra-special grating cheese such as authentic Parmigiano-Reggiano (the "king of cheeses"), save the pieces of rind, wrapping and freezing it for future use.

The next time you have minestrone or some other full-bodied Mediterranean soup simmering on the stove, drop the rind into the pot. In time, it will soften and release its superb flavour.

Semi-firm cheeses (such as cheddar, jack or Gruyere) are higher in moister than firm varieties, but can be frozen for up to two months.

Soft varieties (such as cream cheese, Brie or blue or green-veined cheeses such as Gorgonzola) will keep well in the freezer for about a month.

The cheeses should be frozen once they've reached the desired degree of ripeness.

Frozen semi-firm or firm cheeses are ideal for dishes that require grated or crumbled cheese.

For convenience, the cheese can be thinly sliced or grated before it is frozen, although the flavour will be better if the cheese is frozen in blocks or chunks, thawed in the refrigerator, and sliced or grated immediately before it is needed.

Some varieties crumble when thawed, although their flavour is not affected. Cheese thawed slowly in the refrigerator is less likely to crumble than cheese thawed at room temperature.

If freezing small amounts of cheese seems like too much trouble, keep in mind that even a few ounces of cheese can boost the flavour as well as the protein, calcium and B-vitamin levels of a menu.

To make good use of leftover cheese, sprinkle thawed grated or crumbled cheese over salad, soup, chili, baked beans, eggs, cooked vegetables, pasta, rice or grain dishes.

Stir a tablespoon or two of cheese into an oil-and-vinegar dressing to flavour and thicken it, or add grated or crumbled cheese to a sauce or to the dry ingredients for muffins, biscuits, cornbread, gnocchi or dumplings.

SUCCESS TIP

Wrap chunks of cheese to be frozen in plastic film or aluminium foil and place in heavy-duty freezer bags or freezer-proof lidded containers for added protection against drying out.

— When labelling packages of cheese for the freezer, mark the bag or container with the specific variety of cheese as well as the date it was frozen.

— Although different varieties of cheeses can sometimes be used interchangeably in recipes, flavour isn't the only consideration in substituting one cheese for another.

Two varieties may vary significantly in their melting or browning qualities if their protein, fat and moisture contents are quite different.

Hominy grits, a coarse meal made from dried white corn, is a specialty of the American South. This comforting dish tastes like a cheese souffle but lacks the inflated crown.

Make it with Swiss cheese to serve at breakfast, or use cheddar if serving the grits as a hearty side dish for a dinner of barbecued or roast meat.

BAKED GRITS WITH CHEESE AND GARLIC

½ cup milk

3 eggs

½ pound grated sharp cheddar cheese or Swiss cheese

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut in small pieces

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon snipped chives or minced green onion tops

4 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup quick-cooking grits

1 teaspoon butter

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a medium bowl, beat together milk and eggs. Add cheeses, butter, garlic, pepper and chives. Set aside.

2. Bring the water and salt to a boil. Add grits, stir and return to a boil. Lower heat to medium and continue cooking, stirring often, until grits are thickened (about five minutes).

Drain off any unabsorbed water. Off heat, immediately pour cheese mixture into the grits and stir until the cheese and butter melt. (Grits may be prepared in advance to this point, covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours before the dish will be served.)

3. Butter a two-quart casserole or souffle dish with the one teaspoon butter. Spoon the grits mixture into the prepared casserole and bake until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean (about one hour). If grits will not be served at once, turn off oven and leave the casserole dish in the warm oven for up to 10 minutes before serving.

Serves eight.