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Chef Christopher speaks of dedication

Switzerland's most ritzy resorts may seem an extraordinary leap, but for Christopher Malpas it's a natural stepping stone in a career which caught his fancy at age 14.

Never one to hang around the family kitchen, Christopher nonetheless became intrigued with the concept of cooking, and as a young schoolboy took advantage of an opportunity to work part time in the kitchen at Cambridge Beaches.

"Chef Jean-Claude Garzia really inspired me,'' he said. "He offered to take me aside and help me out. That's more or less how I got started in the profession. During weekends and school holidays he would call me if he had extra work, and if there was a special event he'd let me come in to see how it was all done.'' The next step was the day release programme at Northlands School, when he went to the hotel technology department of the Bermuda College once a week, and ultimately won the Bond Tray for excellence.

The scheme was to prove a pivotal point in what has now become his professional career, for when Christopher graduated from high school at age 16 he enrolled in the College's full time professional chef programme.

Over the next two years Mr. Malpas would garner not only skills and knowledge but a host of awards, among them the Larder Cup (for cold work), the Bermuda Hotel Association cup (for best student of the year in the entire hotel technology programme), the Butterfield Cup (for best cooking student), the Chamber of Commerce Award (for best student in the entire hotel technology programme), and the coveted SKOL prize -- a complete set of chef's knives in a presentation case.

"SKOL is an international organisation which gives an award to outstanding Bermudian students in the chef's programme. You don't apply for it, your instructors nominate you,'' Mr. Malpas explained. "It was really nice to win that prize. A chef's knives are the tools of his trade, and these were worth over $400.'' But then awards have become a way of life to this outstanding student.

Participating with the Bermuda contingent in the 1991 Skills Olympics in Amsterdam, Holland, he won the medal for his country, placed fifth out of 16 countries in the culinary division, and obtained a diploma of excellence.

Graduating with distinction, City & Guilds of London certificates, and a grade point average of 3.97 in 1990, the gifted Bermuda College student next set his sights on a two-year degree programme at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York.

"The Bermuda College was a great background and a great place to start, but I wanted to go on and get an associate degree in culinary arts,'' he explained.

Thus it was that the trainee chef settled down with 72 fellow students -- a far cry from the four or five who graduated with him at home -- for more intense studies in all facets of the culinary industry, including nutrition, charcuterie, garde manger, baking and pastry, cost control, menus and facilities, French, mathematics and even sanitation.

At first it was hard to adjust to life away from home, his friends, and the size and friendly atmosphere of his old campus.

"At times the Culinary Institute was almost like a military camp,'' Mr.

Malpas recalled. "The way the course was set up was really rigid, and discipline was strictly enforced. Team work, the dress code, and so forth were really stressed. Even though you were paying to learn, if you caused any problems you were holding others back. That is why the school is so well recognised.'' As usual, however, the eager student set to with a will, soon securing a place on the Dean's List. By the time he graduated in June of this year it was with honours -- and yet another award: Student most likely to succeed.

Prior to reaching that point, however, Mr. Malpas returned once more to his mentor, chef Garzia, serving his externship at Cambridge Beaches.

Looking back on his Institute days, the Bermudian chef says one of the highlights was participating in a project which required the students to design a Japanese restaurant from scratch, develop its menu and a complimentary wine list.

Another was being enrolled in the Chaine de Rotisseur -- an international organisation for "those who really appreciate the marriage of good wine and food''.

"It is very enjoyable because you are with people who really care about food and wine -- and you get a chance to taste really expensive old wines,'' he noted.

Part of the joy of joining the organisation was induction night, when Mr.

Malpas also got a chance to work alongside some of the world's best chefs in preparing superb food for 92 members.

Now home until December, Mr. Malpas' next career move will take him to Switzerland, where once again his Cambridge Beaches roots will come into play.

"Thanks to a chef who used to work there, I've got a place at the four-star Grand Hotel Alpine in Gstaad for the season. I will be chef de partie, and since it is a small brigade I will have a chance to do things in all areas of the kitchen,'' he said.

Gstaad is a popular playground for the rich and famous. Among others, Elizabeth Taylor and Roger Moore own homes there.

When the Grand Hotel Alpine closes for renovations next April, Mr. Malpas will move on to another establishment. He wants to stay in Switzerland for a few years perfecting his trade and learning French.

"The learning structure in Bermuda and the US is different to Europe,'' he explained. "In Europe, everyone's trade is their lifeline and they really focus on it. Here you can have a trade, but most people have two and three jobs.

"Some people feel cooking is just a job and a way to make money, whereas in Europe the training is intense and people really appreciate their profession.

I want to go to Europe because they really care. It is very frustrating to work alongside someone who couldn't care less about the establishment or what is happening.'' Although he has "a natural talent'' for pastries, particularly fine work like piping, Mr. Malpas says it is as a saucier that he is happiest. And what of the distant future? "Bermuda will definitely be in my long-term plans -- either working for myself or passing on my knowledge at the College,'' he assured.

Paying tribute to those who have nurtured his career -- particularly Bermuda College chef instructors Mr. Leo Betschart and Mr. Fred Ming, and chef Garzia at Cambridge Beaches -- Mr. Malpas said he was saddened to see so few Bermudians going into his profession. But he was also realistic.

"It is a career for which you have to be really dedicated because of the hours and the frustrations you go through having to work holidays and weekends. It is something you really have to enjoy and love. Young people need to get into it as early as they can.'' SUCCESSFUL CHEF -- Bermudian chef Mr. Christopher Malpas recently graduated from the prestigious Culinary Institute of America with an associate degree in culinary arts, following successful completion of his early training as a professional chef at the Bermuda College. In both programmes, Mr. Malpas garnered a host of awards.