Christmas pudding is the grand finale to the traditional festive feast.

Brought flaming to the table, its dark, rich mass exudes an aroma like no other dessert.

Weeks in advance, kitchens are a-buzz with action as the classic list of ingredients -- dried fruits, suet, breadcrumbs and spices among them -- are assembled in the time-honoured tradition.

Years ago, things were a little different. The original Christmas pudding was made on the third Sunday of Advent, a rich spicy mixture, similar to today's recipe, but also containing plums and oatmeal.

The making of the plum pudding, as it was then called, was quite an exciting occasion and the whole family were frequently involved. Fruit, nuts and spices all needed cleaning, cracking, trimming, chopping and grinding. The list of ingredients was enormous, including silver coins or charms for added excitement.

When Christmas day finally came, the pudding was served -- as it is today -- with a sprig of holly on top, flamed in brandy and eaten with rum sauce, brandy butter or thick cream.

Now is the time to make your Christmas pudding in order to give the flavour a chance to mature properly before December 25.

Naturally, each family has its own version of the Christmas pudding, and each family thinks its version is the best. Oftentimes, the family recipe is handed down from generation to generation. If you're not that lucky, try of these recipes: OLD ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING 1 lb. dried currants 1 lb. seedless raisins 1 lb. seeded raisins or sultanas 1 lb. mixed candied peel 1 cup glace cherries, cut up 1 1 cups dark rum 1 orange 1 lemon 2 cups flour 1 tsp. cinnamon 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 tsp. ginger 1 tsp. cloves 1 tsp. allspice 1 tsp. mace 1 tsp. salt 1 cup fine dry bread crumbs 1 cup dark brown sugar (well-packed) 1 lb. ground beef suet 4 eggs, well-beaten 1 cup molasses 1 cup. brandy 1 cup blanched almonds, slivered SOAK dried fruit in rum and grated rind and juice of orange and lemon for a week. The bowl should not be metal, it should be covered, and the mixture should be stirred occasionally.

Sift the spices, salt and flour into a large mixing bowl. Add dried bread crumbs (Use 6 slices bread, dry in 250 degree F. oven for one hour, cool and roll). Add remaining ingredients in order given, mixing well. Lastly, stir in the fruit.

Butter well two 6-cup (average size) fluted pudding molds and one 4-cup size.

Firmly pack pudding batter into these molds, filling about half way. Cover each with waxed paper and then the tightly fitting lid.

Steam the two large molds in your roasting pan, and the smaller mold in a cooking pot. The molds should rest on racks (or inverted pie pans or custard cups). Boiling water should be poured in half way up the sides of the molds.

The water should be kept at a good boil. When more water has to be added to keep at the half way mark, be sure that it is boiling. Steam for 5 hours.

Remove from water, allow to cool, store in refrigerator.

To serve: Re-steam about 1 1 hours. Unmold onto your best plate. Heat about 2 oz. of brandy in a small saucepan until almost boiling. Pour over pudding and ignite. Transport immediately to a darkened dining room to get the most dramatic effect. What's Cooking in Bermuda by Betsy Ross: CHRISTMAS PUDDING 1 1 cups shortening 4 eggs 1 box seedless raisins 1 cup mixed peel 1 cup rum or grape juice 1 cup flour 2 tbsp. cinnamon Juice & rind or 1 lemon 1 1 cups dark brown sugar 1 box seeded raisins 1 pkg. dates 1 apple 4 cup bread crumbs 1 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 tsp. salt CREAM shortening and sugar. Add beaten eggs and other ingredients and mix well. Steam in pudding bowl for 5 hours. (Traditional Bermuda Recipes, pub.

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