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Adventurer Webbe goes to Suriname -- An exotic mosaic of cultures and races in

Little is known in the outside world about this far away tropical paradise situated on the northeast coast of South America.

This was one of the lures that enticed a visit by Bermuda's Lloyd Webbe of Unique Safaris who often takes roads less traveled.

As a talented photographer, travel guide and writer, he relies heavily upon his basic instincts and keen senses of sight, sound, and touch.

His excellent physical conditioning enables endurance travel to far away places around the globe.

Mr. Webbe is attracted to the unknown and to unspoiled cultures amidst interior rain forests, as you will read.

He is the type of fellow who fits into any group of people, even if he does not speak the language.

"I traveled from Miami, Florida to Suriname at 1300 and arrived at Suriname at 2100. Suriname Airways delivered me to the Pengel International Airport in the middle of what seemed nowhere .

"I stepped out of the plane and the grassy field was knee high and I exhaled with glee.'' A large wooden row boat, which seated six to eight people, equipped with an Evinrude engine, and two boatmen awaited him and his tour.

They went along a river to make a transportation connection into Paramaribo.

The tourists boarded a bus to Paramaribo, an hour away and spent the night in the air conditioned rooms at the Krasnapolsky Hotel.

The hotel was excellent with all of the normal tourist amenities and it was located within walking distance to the Central Market.

In the market area Mr. Webbe wandered into what appeared to be a dilapidated building and discovered three floors of art.

"Acrylics, oils, watercolours and charcoals depicting Suriname's many cultures lined old walls and some tables.

"One room housed a class that was in session and I was invited to stay awhile. I bought a vibrant painting of a tropical scene,'' Mr. Webbe said.

He smelled the rich scented spices and tropical fruits and the bright Oriental silks, batiks, gold jewellry and native woodcarvings gave him a visual thrill.

Mr. Webbe loved every minute in this lovely foreign place where he was amazed at the cultural friendliness of the people.

"People gave me assistance before I even knew myself that I needed assistance. My senses told me I was safe.

"One of the special things about Suriname is the new eco-tourism. The people are willing to share their environment.

"Tourism to the villages is in its infancy and the inhabitants are usually as curious about you are you are about them.'' The next day he caught a flight to make his way into the interior to learn about the Kumalu and Awarradam people hidden in the Amazon forest. He met descendants of runaway slaves, the Saaramaka Bush Negroes.

"It was an interesting flight! We were belted to our seats and around us were fruits, vegetables and boxes restrained by cargo nets.

"Flowering and fruit bearing trees seemed just a few feet below. Many rivers and rapids I observed but no roads!'' Mr. Webbe, decked out in his Tilley Endurables khaki from hat to trousers, was ready for adventure and when the plane landed men and women appeared from the surrounding forest and became Sherpas, carrying all luggage and supplies as they trekked to the river.

"When we arrived at the river we boarded small boats, a crossbreed between dugouts and canoes and boarded according to size and weight. Each boat had a motor man on the stern and a man on the bow with a pole who kept a sharp lookout for submerged obstacles that might render us swimmers.'' Within a half hour they arrived at Awarradam and perched on an oversized sandbar were eight Ssaramaka style huts with a kitchen, dining roof and shared sanitary facilities.

Every hut looked over the river so there were rooms with a view for everyone.

There were communal male and female gravity fed showers but Mr. Webbe took most of his washes in the river, a refreshing alternative.

At camp the food was very Western and good and they were served rice, chicken, fish, beans, various curried dishes, French fries.

During breakfast they ate rather American with eggs and bacon and toast or cooked oatmeal porridge and corn meal.

The local fruits were mangoes, bananas, melons and various citrus such as oranges, lemons and limes.

Mr. Webbe said there was plenty to eat and the accommodation was quite comfortable. In the evenings the camp was lit by battery operated lamps that were rechargeable.

"Each bed had a mosquito net. From my hammock on the porch I had an unobstructed view on to the Gran Rio and Awarradam. Old trees provided shade during the heat of the day.'' Everything at camp came from the city. The river was always busy as it is the main mode of transportation in the jungle.

" People were constantly traveling up rapids and down rapids.

Continued on page 51 Roads less traveled in Suriname - a rare glimpse Continued from page 50 "Suriname's rivers are the lifeblood of the villagers. They wash their clothes, bodies and dishes along the banks. They fish, cook and play there.

"Topless females seemed oblivious to their nudity. During one of my visits some of the women danced before an audience and they wore brassieres issued by missionaries.'' Mr. Webbe traveled to the Saramaka villages where he met the Granman, highest Chief of the Saramakas. The Saramakas are among the six tribes of Bush Negroes that are direct descendants of West Africans taken to Suriname for enslavement in the early 1600s.

"They have retained their African based culture and language and live according to the traditions of their ancestors over 400 years ago.'' The past could be felt. Suriname has the largest protected tropical forest in the world and its diversity of culture and unspoiled rain forest is a winning combination for eco-tourism.

The population is about 422,000 inhabitants mainly of Amerindian, African, East-Indian, Indonesian, Chinese and Dutch origin.

The shape of the country is almost square and the climate is warm, about 81 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius).

The official language is Dutch and is taught in all the schools and used by government employees and the media.

English and Spanish is taught also and many people in Paramaribo speak English, especially at the tourist spots. Different cultural groups speak their own language.

Suriname may not be the destination for the `catered crowd' but at the centre of its heart are many cultures and an awesome rain forest. Contact Mr. Webb (441) 295-7611 or email him, uniquesafaris y northrock.bm Rugged outdoorsman, travel photographer Lloyd Webbe, floating around the rivers of Suriname, S.A.