Put yourself in this picture. You're standing on a rocky observation point on the southwest shore of Lake Tahoe. It's a perfect late October day. Golden aspen seem even more vibrant against intense green of giant Ponderosa pine.

The cloudless sky is one of those rare intense blues enhanced by sheer rocky slopes of soaring Sierra peaks. Far below is Emerald Bay whose eerie depth gives it that stunning green hue. At 1,645 feet, Lake Tahoe is the world's 12th deepest lake.

We'd started down around the 72-mile shoreline route encircling this rare beauty spot. Although that may not sound very long, it was an all-day trip, thanks to a tempting list of attractions encountered en route.

Statistics are impressive. Its water surface covers more than 190 square miles. Rimming it, adding to the drama of the setting, are mountains high as 9,000 feet to more than 10,000 feet.

Each of the few small villages encountered along the shore had very individual, distinctive personalities. And most were struggling to keep an unspoiled conservationist setting, under constant siege for more intense development.

Tahoe Vista, where our Franciscan Lodge was located, has been more successful than some. It still retains a sense of its quiet resort past. With an impressive, well- equipped recreation park in a large wooded, mountain area edging town, one can pursue their interest in everything from soccer and tennis to cross-country skiing and open rear-wall squash.

As we began the drive, a sense of prosperity was immediately evident. Supersized lake-front homes, many hidden by screening forestland, spoke of great affluence.

By the time we turned south to Tahoe City, they became ever larger, more hidden back in dense woods. The word city is a total misnomer ¿ it's really just a large village, gateway to famed Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows.

Near here south of town, a sequence for Godfather II was filmed utilising one of the waterfront estates. Film fans will remember it as the location of a wedding party and particularly violent shoot-out.

Proceeding along the shoreline via a two-lane road, we weaved through an impressive landscape of both state park and protected US Forest land, all densely wooded.

Exploration possibilities included a hike down to Vikingsholm, a 32-room mansion built in 1928 by an heir to the Diamond Match, Nabisco and US Steel fortunes. At that time the builder's fortune was estimated to be $40 million. It's open to visitors, but check times locally since they change seasonally.

We enjoyed doing that last trip and recommend the experience. But only for those with no serious health problems. It's a steep descent and consequently a challenging ascent for anyone not used to hiking in high-altitude country.

The trail began near the parking area at the Emerald Bay overlook.

From there the drive continued south across a very narrow escarpment that may make some not used to mountain driving nervous. Imagine what it's like in winter snow conditions when avalanches become threatening enough to close the road.

South Lake Tahoe is worlds away from what you've experienced up on the North Shore. Sharing shoreline with Nevada, it features major casinos such as Harrahs, nearby Heavenly attracts celebrity skiers and the area is in many ways a place with split personality Glitzy condos and splashy new hotels sit close by more vintage properties. A small resort town flavour exists in places, blending with a mini Vegas atmosphere elsewhere.

There's golf, a country club and still more high-price vacation homes climbing slopes along with modest cottages.

Starting up the eastern shore, drivers have several options. Continue back to your starting point, or detour over to nearby Carson City and historic Virginia City. On this trip we were staying on the circle route, but next time we'll take encore day trips back over to those interesting towns.

This last stretch heading up to very affluent Incline Village is designated a Scenic Byway . . . curious since every mile of the route fits that description.

Praise for its beauty started way back in naturalist John Muir's day. He wrote: "Lake Tahoe is King of them all, not only in size but in the surprising beauty of its shores and water."

Al Gore vacationed there with his family when Vice President, and the list of corporate CEOs and celebrities unwinding there continues to grow, names like Clint Eastwood, Dustin Hoffman, Steve Wynn, Leonard Nimoy, George Hamilton, Robin Williams and the Disney family among them.

You'll soon see there are properties to please varied tastes. We wanted the privacy and solitude of a cottage. But those who prefer more action can easily find it many places.

Cal-Nevada recalls the Sinatra era, while the new Biltmore just down the road is very 21st-century. And thanks to the presence of eight major ski resorts, there's no end to ever more condos and hotels surrounding their slopes.

We visited all of the slopes during this trip and will be bringing skiers up to date on what's new on the California-Nevada ski scene. No snow had yet dusted slopes, but everything was in the process of being gussied up.

So much money is being spent on some of them, especially Northstar at Tahoe, that one is curious about its source. You may have heard about a building slowdown in the California area . . . but not here. It's full speed ahead and it's not millions, but appears to be billions being spent.

One popular attraction near Incline Village has fallen victim to extravagant land values. Ponderosa Ranch was a fun family attraction of Bonanza fame and is now closed. Rumours suggest future condo development. Vintage wagons and old ranch equipment still edge its old parking lot.

On this trip forest fires did not occur in this immediate area. But last time, one had started across the lake from Meeks Bay on the Nevada side, creeping down the mountain spreading ever faster.

Planes flew low over the lake, sweeping water into their buckets, then dropping it on flames in an effort to stop the fires' progress. It lasted days until extinguished, but not before doing considerable damage.

Turned out cause of this awful disaster were two mischievous boys who wondered what would happen if they poured gasoline on a lizard and ignited the poor creature.

As it ran, flames soon ignited the forested area. You know what sociologists and psychiatrists say about children who torture animals . . . it's often the sign of a criminal mind and they often progress to far worse acts that lead to prison. We never did hear what happened to these two.

But we did hear about the devastation in the fire's path. Turns out a historic home had been moved into the area from the Carson City region. Furnished with treasured antiques, it had a very sophisticated fire suppression system.

Unfortunately, the power generator that operated it was not an automatic come-on when regular power failed, and had to be manually started. Owners were away that day and the treasured site was totally destroyed.

Access via good roads is excellent either coming in from San Francisco to Sacramento on to Truckee and then south, or out from Reno just an hour away. Major airlines offer Reno service and regular shuttle service is available.

Amtrak has service into Truckee west of Reno. We had considered enjoying relaxation of sightseeing across the western states from the comfort of a train bedroom. But it takes two overnights from Chicago and our time was limited.

This is the gateway to many places of interest. But if you've time for only one, it should be the old road across Donner Pass and at the state park that tells the story of those ill-fated emigrants who tried to cross it in an especially treacherous winter.

Travel factfile: Renting a four-wheel drive Chevy Trailblazer from Alamo for seven days cost $410. Gasoline varied from $3.22 in Nevada to $3.39 per gallon in California.

Next week: Up over Donner Pass and a visit to ski slopes from Squaw Valley and Northstar to Heavenly.