Almost spring or at least we are heading in that direction, so work is awaiting and spring is almost sprung.

First and foremost — especially in larger properties — walk around the garden and note any problems, such as pruning requirements, pest and disease problems, tree damage, the condition of the lawn and general appearance of the lawn and plantings.

Mild winters especially those that last into January produce new growth on many species, this keeps the garden looking attractive but there is usually a price to pay when winter winds eventually arrive. Stripped or broken branches need cleaning up and pruned back to green wood and an outward pointing bud — this discourages inward growing which is not good - which will be the new seasons’ growth.

Inward growing branches should also be pruned back to encourage growth in an outward direction, when developed the profile should be that of an upturned umbrella.

Pruning is also a good time to assess pest and disease problems over and above normal observations of same.

As an aside, many pest and disease problems occur because old leaves and branches are not raked up and disposed of thus leaving material for the ‘problem’ to over-winter and become active once the cycle of reproduction is complete, thus re-infecting host plants.

Check your secateurs, saws and lopper to ensure they are sharp, as snagged cuts can also lead to problems down the road.

To date we have had little stormy windy weather, but it would still be wise to check any large specimen trees for crown damage of signs of rot in the crotches of branches; reducing the weight of large branches and re-balancing the shape or canopy is advisable at this time, especially when tree are leafless.

At this time of year, lawns usually look tired and in the case of Bermuda grass showing a thin sward, winter weeds will also have grown in were allowed, clover being one of the worst offenders.

Active growth will not be consistent with warm season grasses until the day night temperatures attain sixty five degrees, so we have some time to go before this happens.

If anything, weed control should be tackled to reduce the impact of invasive species such as clover and plantain; weed control for Zoysia and Bermuda lawn weeds are similar, however St. Augustine and its hybrid Floratem require a different set of chemical control.

Check the line of products available with your landscape supplier, but be certain to know your lawn grass type.

Unfortunately many lawns consist of a mix of grasses, I have seen all three lawn grasses in the one lawn, and this of course is not desirous and creates a major problem not only in weed control but more essentially height of cut.

St. Augustine should be mown at a minimum of three inches in height, if cut closer to ‘match’ the other grasses one can only expect to develop intrusion of weed growth.

If the temperature ‘kicks in’ toward the end of March, consideration should be given to verticutting heavily thatched lawns in preparation for an upturn in temperature and growth.

For lawns that have been compacted with foot traffic or otherwise, consider carrying out hollow tinning which reduces compaction by extracting cores of soil, these can then be ‘broken up’ and swept back into the lawn.

The March winds should hopefully see the end of ‘winter’ weather and thoughts of planting should come into play.

Whether new or replacement plantings, consider selection, placement/location and installation before you buy.

Selection is important simply because it should fit in and complement its surrounds without growing to large and requiring too much attention.

Placement is an adjunct of selection; it is advisable to know the potential height spread etc. of a plant before you determine its placement/location.

Too many times I have seen plants installed and within a few months they are being hacked to keep them ‘in bounds’, if this is the case, simply, the plant is the wrong choice for the said location.

Installation is more than just putting the plant in the ground; plants by their very nature grow, some faster than others.

When branches grow it makes sense that roots also grow therefore adequate room is required for the root to develop and thus do its job for the rest of the plant, i.e. support the top growth during storms and transfer water and nutrients on a constant basis for ‘life’ support.

Trees with the potential to develop a canopy or head especially require a good root run; the larger the hole the better it will be for the future growth of the plant.

The size of container is important in determining the size of planting hole, but the plant in the container is really the crucial factor; e.g. a Poinciana tree in a one gallon container vis a vis an Abelia in a four gallon container, in time the Poinciana will develop into a mature tree whereas the Abelia will be a shrub attaining a much lesser height and spread.

Rocky areas will need to be excavated to a greater extent than areas of a sandy soil; the criteria are establishment of a good root system capable of sustaining plant growth.

Composting is a method of recycling horticultural waste, instead of paying for it to be dumped, why not use it to benefit your own garden.

I note the use of mulch in many properties, the problem is in many cases the material is not even mulch it is basically ‘bits of wood’ which will not readily break down in such as state, and ends up being blown around and generally giving the garden an unkempt appearance.

Garden management is important to reap the benefits of time and labour, and even more so cost; remember the old adage, ‘what you create you have to maintain’; but of course you don’t have to, and that’s when it costs you money!