hot coals are not.

Steak, chicken, hamburgers, fish slathered with one or another of the many bottled sauces on the market is inevitably what you get.

In the southern and southwestern United States, barbecuing is as rich in taste and texture as it is in coalside stories, folklore and just plain down-home goodness.

Things like sauces hallmark the difference between one state's preference and another's. Texan sauces, for example, are sweeter and thicker. In Georgia, the colour is orangish-red because they mix mustard and tomato. In North Carolina it's thin and red because of the preference for tomatoes.

And then there is the folksiness of the recipes themselves, which often bear the names of citizens noted in their communities for various reasons.

In the Jack Daniel's Old Time Barbecue Cookbook, author Vince Staten captures the flavour of the southlands and the pleasures of barbecuing with 300 recipes, cooktips, accompanying dishes -- and charm.

Here's a sampling. In future editions, we will feature more recipes from this delightful book, including dishes to accompany the barbecued food as well as desserts. Enjoy! Time to savour that barbecue flavour BARBECUE RED DOGS 2 cups ketchup 1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed 1 cup Jack Daniel's whiskey 2 16-oz. pkges. hot dogs cut into 1-inch chunks COMBINE ketchup, brown sugar and Jack Daniel's in a saucepan. Bring to a boil.

Cover and reduce heat. Simmer 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Add hot dog chunks and simmer 5 more minutes. Serve in chafing dish with toothpicks.

STATEN FAMILY BARBECUE PECANS 2 tbsp. butter 1 cup Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp. ketchup 2 dashes hot sauce 4 cups pecan halves MELT butter in Dutch oven. Remove from heat. Add Worcestershire sauce, ketchup and hot sauce, stirring well. Add pecans, stirring to coat. Spread pecans evenly on a jelly roll pan. Bake at 400 degrees F. for 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Place pecans on paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt.

BAJA CHICKEN WINGS 2 lbs. chicken wings 1 cup tequila 1 cup lime juice 2 tbsp. chili powder 1 tsp. salt 1 cup olive oil CUT wings in half at joint; remove wing tips and discard. Combine tequila, lime juice, chili powder, salt and oil until slightly thickened. Pour mixture over wings and refrigerate overnight.

Cook on grill for 15 minutes, turning frequently and basting with marinade.

Serve with salsa.

WHISKEYED RIB SAUCE 9 cups Worcestershire sauce 4 cups apple cider vinegar 1 1 cups tomato juice 1 cup hot pepper sauce 2 qts. ketchup 1 cup garlic, minced or put through a garlic press 2 cups brown sugar 2 cups sugar 1 cup paprika 1 cup black pepper 6 tbsp. onion powder 1 cup salt liquid smoke, to taste 1 cup Jack Daniel's whiskey MIX and simmer all ingredients except whiskey for 1 hour. Add whiskey after mixture has cooked and cooled. Makes 1 1 gallons of sizzlin' sauce.

ELBERTON SAUCE 1 qt. apple cider vinegar 1 cup ketchup 1 cup water 1 cup chili sauce 1 cup Worcestershire sauce 1 cup mustard 1 stick butter 1 medium onion, chopped 1 green pepper, chopped 3 tbsp. lemon juice 1 tbsp. grated lemon zest (yellow part of rind only) 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tsp. sugar MIX all ingredients in a large pot and stir well. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

JOHNSON FAMILY SAUCE President Lyndon B. Johnson often entertained his political friends with a barbecue. There are as many sauce recipes attributed to his barbecues as there are tall tales. Here's another 3 cups ketchup 1 cup honey 1 medium onion, chopped fine 1 large green pepper, chopped fine 2 tbsp. hot pepper sauce 2 tsp. garlic powder 2 tbsp. white vinegar 1 cup packed brown sugar 1 cup Worcestershire sauce 1 cup water COMBINE all ingredients and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until onion and peppers are tender.

DAVID SOLEMAN'S RIB SAUCE 1 15-ounce can tomato sauce 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. garlic salt 1 tbsp. paprika 1 tsp. cloves 1 1 tsp. cinnamon 2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp. onion, chopped 2 tbsp. Tiger sauce 1 tsp. dry mustard MIX well. Bring to a boil, simmer 20 minutes.

LITTLE BUBBA'S SAUCE 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. celery salt 1 cup ketchup 1 tsp. chili powder 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 tsp. brown sugar 1 cup water MIX ingredients and bring to a boil.

PEE DEE RIVER SAUCE 1 large (1-lb. 8-ounce) jar mustard 1 cup mayonnaise 1 cup ketchup 2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp. brown sugar 1 tsp. hot pepper sauce 1 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 tsp. ground pepper 1 tsp. seasoned salt 1 cup butter 1 cup water COMBINE all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook uncovered for 8 minutes.

MR. ED'S FISH SANDWICH Fresh fillet of fish bread crumbs homemade tartar sauce (recipe follows) red onion slice leaf of lettuce tomato slice LIGHTLY turn fish in bread crumbs and deep fry till done. Serve on bun with tartar sauce, slice of onion, leaf of lettuce and slice of tomato.

Homemade Tartar Sauce COMBINE homemade mayonnaise (recipe follows), capers, shallots, fresh lemon juice, white pepper and fresh parsley. (Ed doesn't know the exact measurement of each -- "I just cook. I don't read recipes,'' he explains).

Homemade Mayonnaise Egg yolks vegetable oil BEAT egg yolks. Add oil very slowly. Be careful not to let mixture break down.

L.P. MALONE'S BARBECUE SHRIMP 2 lbs. large (not jumbo) shrimp, uncooked and unpeeled 1 lb. butter 1 cup Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp. black pepper, finely ground 1 tsp. rosemary, ground 2 lemons, sliced thin 1 tsp. hot pepper sauce 2 tsp. salt 3 cloves crushed, fresh garlic IN a saucepan melt butter, add Worcestershire, pepper, rosemary, lemon slices, hot pepper sauce, salt, garlic and mix thoroughly. Divide shrimp into 2 shallow glass baking dishes and pour heated sauce over them. Stir well. Cook at 400 degrees F. for 15 minutes, turning once. Shells should be pink and the meat white, not translucent. Serve with salad and French bread for dipping into sauce.

COMMODORE JOE'S BARBECUE SHRIMP ON A STICK BUY some large shrimp in the shell and skewer them on metal or bamboo barbecue sticks. Put the shrimp on the cooker when everything else is about ready. The shrimp take only a few minutes to cook and the smoke adds to the flavour. Be careful not to overcook.

NUTT BROTHERS GRILLED SWORDFISH 6 swordfish steaks, about 2 1 to 3 lbs. total 3 cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and mashed 2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, OR 1 1 tsp. dried rosemary salt and pepper to taste PLACE swordfish in a shallow pan. Combine oil, garlic, tomatoes, vinegar, rosemary, salt and pepper. Pour over swordfish. Marinate 2 hours. Grill fish, covered, over medium-hot coals topped with mesquite chunks or chips. Do not overcook -- it should take about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Pour some marinade over the swordfish while it is cooking and when serving.

BARBECUED LAMB This recipe is not just the usual grilled lamb, but with things besides, such as spiced vinegar for barbecuing.

ORDER 5 lbs. of lamb with a little fat. Cut into 1 1 -inch squares about 1 -inch thick, first pounding lightly to flatten well. Marinate 2 hours in the Spiced Vinegar (recipe follows). Dry on a cloth, run onto skewers, alternating with squares of smoked bacon. First, brush with the spiced vinegar. Broil over coals or under broiler for about 10 minutes, turning now and then. Heat a little brandy or Jack Daniel's whiskey, put on with spoon, serve flaming.

Spiced Barbecue Vinegar for Grilling TAKE 1 cup red wine vinegar (tarragon-flavoured is best) and put in mixing bowl previously rubbed with a trifle of garlic and 1 tsp. salt. Add 1 tsp.

black pepper, 1 tsp. cloves, 1 tsp. nutmeg, 1 cup tart white wine and 1 cup olive oil. Whip up well and pour over squares of lamb.

YODLER'S GRILLED BARBECUE STEAK 2 1 -inch thick steaks 4 oranges 1 clove garlic salt olive oil HAVE butcher pound steaks thin or do it in domestic privacy with one of those small, square wooden mauls with the waffle-iron patterned face found in any household supply store. Next, cut oranges in half and rub and squeeze well all over steaks to get maximum oil from the rind onto every part of the meat.

Crush garlic clove very fine and spread a trifle on each steak. Salt lightly and place in bowl, squeezing juice on each layer. Let marinate 2 hours, brush lightly with olive oil and grill over fierce heat, or live coals; searing briefly first on one side, then the other.

AUNT CINDY'S SINFUL LEMON CHICKEN 1 fryer chicken, cut in half 1 cup mayonnaise 1 cup lemon juice 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. paprika 1 tsp. onion powder 1 tsp. dried sweet basil, crushed 1 tsp. thyme, crushed 1 tsp. garlic powder COMBINE mayonnaise, lemon juice, salt, paprika, onion powder, basil, thyme and garlic powder. Mix well. Pour over chicken. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning chicken occasionally. Cook 30 minutes skin side up on the grill, brushing frequently with marinade. Turn and cook, continuing to baste with marinade until chicken is golden brown, usually another 20 minutes.

DAVID COLEMAN'S SPARERIBS 10 lbs. spareribs 1 cup brown sugar 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 tsp. paprika 1 tsp. garlic salt MIX dry ingredients and rub into both sides of meat. Let stand 30 minutes.

Smoke for 4 to 5 hours at 200 to 225 degrees F.

POPPY BROWN'S LOIN BACK RIBS 2 slabs baby back ribs warmed honey Dry rub mix 3 tbsp. paprika 1 tbsp. onion powder 1 tbsp. garlic powder 1 tbsp. ground basil 1 1 tbsp. mustard powder 1 tbsp. red pepper 1 tbsp. black pepper COMBINE dry rub ingredients and rub into ribs. Cook ribs over hickory coals at 190 to 200 degrees F. for 4 to 5 hours. 15 minutes before serving, coat ribs with heated honey.

MRS. BUCK'S BARBECUE ONIONS Start with a large whole onion. Trim off top and outer skin with paring knife.

Carve a small well in top of onion. Pour in a tablespoon of your favourite barbecue sauce.

Wrap onions individually in heavy aluminium foil.

Place onions on top of the grill, in a campfire or in the oven.

It usually takes about 45 minutes, depending on the heat of the fire.

In the kitchen oven, bake at 400 degrees F. for 50-60 minutes.

Plan on 1 onion per person.