Dear Miss d'Arcy: Must one have meat, fish, poultry, eggs or cheese at each meal? -- AD, Hamilton.

Dear AD: There are many people who think that a meal is not a meal unless meat is a major part of it, and therefore they eat meat to excess. In reality, you can get proper protein with certain combinations of legumes (beans) and a complex carbohydrate, such as pasta, rice and grains.

Animal protein supplies our body with the essential amino acids we need for cell growth. You will find these amino acids in beans and rice, or beans and pasta. Here is a recipe which supplies a complete meal in one dish: MEAL-IN-ONE 8 oz. cooked pasta 24 oz. jar marinara sauce 1 cup cooked kidney beans, drained 1 can cream of mushroom soup 1 cup cottage cheese 2 egg whites 1 tsp. sweet basil 1 cup chopped spinach salt and pepper to taste MIX all but one cup of the marinara sauce into the pasta. Add the drained kidney beans. Spread one half of the mixture in a 4-qt. casserole dish.

Combine soup with cottage cheese, egg whites, basil and spinach. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spread this combination over the pasta. Top with remaining half of the pasta and the reserved sauce. Bake, covered or uncovered, in a 350-degree F. oven for 45 minutes. Serve with a salad of lettuce and tomatoes.

Dear Miss d'Arcy: I like lamb shanks, but each time I cook them they seem to be so tough. What am I doing wrong? -- SR, Southampton.

Dear SR: Lamb shanks, although quite tasty, are one of the least tender parts of the lamb. To enjoy this economical cut, it is best to slow cook the meat, covered. I am giving you this simple, tasty one-pan meal that is a snap to clean up, too: LAMB SHANKS AND VEGETABLES 4 lamb shanks 4 medium carrots, cut up 4 medium potatoes, cut up 1 large onion, cut up 2 large cloves garlic 1 tbsp. dried rosemary 1 tbsp. each salt and pepper, mixed together 1 cup flour 1 cup water 1 roasting bag TRIM and wash shanks. Pat dry. Smash garlic and roll it in salt and pepper mixture. Cut garlic cloves into slivers. Make an equal number of holes in the shanks as there are slivers of garlic, insert one sliver in each hole. Crush rosemary and put into roasting bag along with the flour, and remaining salt and pepper. Add lamb, carrot, potato and onion pieces. Shake lamb and vegetables so all are coated with flour. Add water. Tie bag closed and make 4 to 5 slits in the top. Bake for 1 1 hours in a 350-degree F. oven. If you do not have a roasting bag, follow instructions and toss shanks and vegetables in large bowl. Line roasting pan with foil. Put lamb and vegetables on top of foil and add water. Cover with foil and make 4 or 5 slits in it. Bake as instructed.

Dear Miss d'Arcy: I would like a good recipe for crepes. I think it makes such an elegant dessert. TR, Hamilton.

Dear TR: Crepes are indeed elegant whether filled or plain. Here is a recipe for crepes, and how to prepare them in two different ways: CREPES 1 cup flour 1 tbsp. melted margarine 1 tsp. salt 1 large egg COMBINE flour and salt in bowl. Beat egg and milk in small bowl and pour over flour, add melted margarine. Mix together until well blended with no lumps.

Using a 7-inch crepe pan or a non-stick skillet, lightly grease with oil.

Remove pan from heat. Pour about 3 tablespoons of batter into the middle and rotate pan until batter covers bottom. Fill any holes by spreading on a little extra batter with a spatula. Return pan to heat. As soon as batter is set, loosen edges with a thin-bladed spatula. Turn skillet upside down over a clean dish towel so crepe falls out. Crepes will be cooked on one side only.

Continue with the remaining batter, stacking crepes on top of each other with a piece of waxed paper between each one.

STRAWBERRY CREPES 8 crepes 2 cups strawberries, cut up 1 1 cups cottage cheese 1 egg 1 cup powdered sugar SET cottage cheese in strainer to drain, about 20 minutes. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Place cheese in bowl with egg and sugar, mix well. Spread some of cheese mixture down centre of each crepe, on pale side. Top with a row of strawberries. Roll up all crepes and place in shallow baking dish. Cover with foil and bake 15 minutes in 425-degree F. oven. Serve with additional powdered sugar and remaining berries.

CREPES SUZANNE 8 crepes 1 cup orange juice 2 tbsp. sugar 1 oz. chocolate liqueur powdered sugar 1 tbsp. unsalted butter MELT butter in 10-inch skillet. Add orange juice and sugar; heat until sugar has melted. Float crepe in this liquid until it is heated. Fold crepe and set on dessert plate. Continue working with remaining crepes, putting two crepes on each plate. When you have finished with final crepe, add the chocolate liqueur to the remaining orange juice mixture. Heat mixture until alcohol has evaporated. Pour caramelised liquid evenly over four plates. Sprinkle with a little powdered sugar or some whipped cream with chocolate shavings.