The House of Bollinger, a privately-owned champagne maker is proud of its autonomy, according to Monsieur Guy Bizot, export director.

Located in the French region of Champagne, Bollinger "remains a family business'' much as it was over 160 years ago and the company, one of only three private family owned champagne makers left in the Champagne region, is not likely go public or become part of a larger corporate group, according to M. Bizot.

M. Bizot visited Bermuda last week in connection with an invitation only champagne tasting at Waterloo House. About 85 attended the event co-sponsored by Frith's Liquors Ltd. and Bollinger.

"Bollinger is one our oldest associates. The association goes back 50 years.

Jacques Bollinger and my father (Mr. William Frith, founder of Frith's) were great friends,'' said Mr. William Frith, president of Frith's.

"Bollinger is a prestigious product. They insist on excellent marketing and no discounting,'' noted Mr. Marc Morabito, managing director of Frith's. "By putting the emphasis on quality into their charter they stand out from other producers. Bollinger is our pride and joy,'' he added.

The House of Bollinger was created in 1829 in Ay, France, through a partnership of Admiral Athanase-Louis-Emmanuel, the Count of Villermont, who owned the vines on the Montagne de Reims, and Jacques-Joseph-Placide Bollinger, his son-in-law.

Jacques Bollinger, great-grandson of the founder, took over in 1918.

In 1941, Jacques passed away leaving the business to his wife Madame Lily Bollinger who was M. Bizot's grandmother's sister.

Many champagne makers had financed expansions but when the recession hit and sales dropped they found themselves with distribution problems and were ultimately absorbed by large corporate structures, he explained.

In 1950 the Champagne region produced about 30 million bottles and by 1994 production had increased to about 240 million bottles.

"We really never expanded. We've reached maximum production,'' he added.

Bollinger produces about 100,000 cases, or around one million bottles of sparkling wine per year.

The height of the market was 1989 then the recession slowed sales but 1993 and 1994 have show signs of recovery with sales last year an improvement over a year earlier, according to M. Bizot.

"We have had some very good years (but) the recession has hit us badly, much like all (producers),'' he added.

The House of Bollinger owns 144 hectares in the Champagne region and has 120 employees. These vineyards provide 70 percent of their grape needs.

With a Royal Warrant since 1884 Bollinger has had a long association with England. In the 1920 and 1930s the House sold 90 percent of its product to the UK.

In the early 1990s Bollinger has made efforts to reassert its place in the world of bubbly most notably with its charter of right and ethics.

"Bollinger follows a charter of ethics and quality it created. We want to express the difference between champagne and other sparkling wines and to guarantee a high level of quality,'' said M. Bizot.

The charter, created three years ago, is considered a departure from standard practises for French champagne makers.

"It is characteristic of the people of Champagne to keep their methods secret. We guarantee our consistency, it is difficult to produce consistency with different vintages and different blends,'' noted M. Bizot.

Bollinger introduced its own charter because while there is a classification system for French wines -- echelle de crus -- there is no system for champagnes.

Each French wine appellation defines; a geographic origin, viticultural practises and a method if vinificaton which is adhered to by all those who carry that appellation, and quality references recognised by the consumer.

Each appellation provides a wide variety of wines that have different standards of quality.

The echelle de crus within each appellation, accurately defines levels of quality and offers references that consumers recognise and understand. The highest level sets quality references and establishes the image of the area.

In Champagne, however, the echelle des crus is not known to the consumer and therefore he does not have those references which would guide him in his understanding of the area and of the differences in quality of the wines of Champagne.

"The reception has been good among the trade and among the Press,'' he added.

But it can be difficult to pass the message to the consumer, according to M.

Bizot.

Elements of the charter have been included in the House of Bollinger labels.

THE BEST OF BOLLINGER -- Mr. William Frith, president of Frith's Liquors Ltd., (left), Monsieur Guy Bizot, export director of the House of Bollinger, (centre), and Mr. Marc Morabito, managing director at Frith's Liquors, greeted about 85 guests at a House of Bollinger champagne tasting of at Waterloo House.