I just returned from a very enjoyable trip to Bermuda, and wanted to pass on a few observations. I started coming to Bermuda in the early 80s for a month at a time, then returned once eight years ago, and once again last week. So, there are some changes afoot which I have observed over 20 years.

First, traffic and congestion has got markedly worse over the years, making travel by scooter a challenge. Another unwelcome development is the large number of huge cruise ships in Hamilton. My wife and I have seen other small island destinations suffer under the influx of hordes of well-wishing cruise line visitors, and their oversized vessels which dominate the skyline.

A different sort of concern seemingly gets very little attention: At Church Bay and in many other locations you have delicate brain coral, sea fans, and other marine life that may not be around for long unless it is protected. If these resources are treated wrongly by tourists, you will lose a delicate but critical part of Bermuda that folks have come specifically to enjoy. Please, place signs at beaches and devise additional ways to warn tourists not to destroy what they came to see. You could go the route of some of the more beautiful Greek islands which had too many people, and little regard for marine life, resulting in a vastly degraded experience for all.

In the past, we did the traditional Bermudian vacation. But this time there was an Alternative Bermuda to visit. We went to Dennis' Hideaway for an odd bite of Bermudian culture. To hear first hand the views of `Sea Egg' (aka Graham) on life in St. David's Head, and to sample his cuisine on the broken-down picnic tables was really a treat. According to the visitors' log, we missed visits by Tom Cruise and Alanis Morrisette by two weeks. We also decided to take the Ferry from Hamilton out to Somerset Bridge and rent kayaks. We had a great four-hour paddle over smooth waters to the new Eco-Tent Community on Daniel's Head, with visits to reefs and other beaches on the way, and sightings of sea turtles and longtails. The Eco-Tents are really quite striking, and seem to hold good possibilities for future visits.

Finally, perhaps the oddest thing we did was to rent mountain bikes and travel the railway bed from Paget to slightly past Gibb's Lighthouse, and back. The railway trail provided a unique look at the back-country life in Bermuda, as well as views of beautiful ocean vistas. This resource needs to be improved as there were many places with trash and construction debris, and areas that were nearly impassable due to neglect and erosion. It could attract many folks who wish to bike or walk the railway bed, and its associated tribe roads. Herein lies a resource as great as the Potomac River's Towpath (most popular park probably in three state areas near Washington, DC); now, it has been restored after years of neglect, has at least 150 miles of bike and hike length, and provides a much-needed non-motorised vehicle path through a historical area.

Imagine the potential of a linked Bermudian railway, and tribe network, trail system for tourist and resident enjoyment alike. In order to make your Rails to Trails transition effective, the path bed and associated signage need improving, and the trash needs to be tidied up.

We will be back to Bermuda, and hope to find an improved rail/trail, the eco-tents doing well, the marine life still abundant, and perhaps a bit less congestion.

DR. PHIL SAYRE Bethesda, Maryland