Late night shopping three nights a week, historic re-enactments on the square twice a week and a mini fair on Tuesdays featuring train rides and craft stalls. St. George's is certainly a lively Old Town since the arrival of its exclusive cruise ship.

But where is the beach? That's what the mostly Massachusetts residents on board the luxury liner wanted to know.

Shopkeepers and Royal Majesty passengers had little to complain about when we took to the streets to see how St. George's was accommodating the long-awaited ship.

One gripe, however, was the lack of a nearby big, sandy beach.

Bostonian Laurie Chasten, here with a friend, said, "There's not a beach around. We had to go miles to get to a real Bermuda beach and the cost of transport here is outrageous.'' New Bedford couple Mr. and Mrs. Tim Mello said: "It would be nice if there were larger beaches in the area. Fort St. Catherine beach isn't very large.'' Other than the beach problem, passengers interviewed were more than happy with the port of St. George's. Tuesday night's mini fair and a taxi tour of the Island were two of the high points of their visit, the Mellos said.

"We wish we could come back next week,'' Mr. Mello said. "It's nice to go to an island that's clean and the people are so friendly.'' One couple even chose not to go into Hamilton.

"We didn't want to. We're happy here,'' said Mr. and Mrs. Ted Crosby of Cape Cod. "It's wonderful, quaint and charming.'' And by the looks of their handful's of shopping bags, they did not find a shortage of things to buy.

Said repeat visitor Mrs. Elaine Goldenberg of Boston said: "There's plenty to buy here.'' Her and her husband Marty had been to Bermuda several times, she said. They decided to come on a cruise because Royal Majesty was sailing out of Boston.

"We spent a lot of money -- most of it here,'' Salem sisters Mary and Sarah Fabizzenski said."We really love the quaintness of St. George's.'' In fact, St. George's merchants all reported increases -- though not major -- in sales over 1993.

Most were staying open at night until 9 p.m. on a trial basis on their own initiative. The Chamber of Commerce had suggested Tuesday for opening late to coincide with their Harbour Nights shopping programme.

"We're feeling it out to see if it will work,'' a Crown Colony sales clerk said. "So far there's definitely been an increase in sales.'' Gift shop owner Mr. Robert Sinclair said, "They're definitely buying and spending...The Royal Majesty adds that little extra.'' Taylor's manager Ms Georgette Walker said sales were currently "slightly above average''. "One day we are busy, the next day takes away from it,'' she noted.

She added passengers of the twin-port ship Horizon were still the store's best customers.

"It (business) was good the first day and it's been good ever since,'' Ms Kathy Pitcher of the Bermuda Railway Company said.

Another World Gift Shop staff reported that Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdays were busier than last year, however, weekend sales were down.

According to Wharf Tavern owner Mr. Alan Powell, "The cruise ship is proving great for everyone. But the tourist season is not as vibrant as last year.''