The strong and fruity smell of port wine lingered in the air after Portugal vineyard owner Mr. James Symington popped open a bottle of one of his best -- Six Grapes Port.

He described it as being the most appreciated of his various ages of port wine due to its dark appearance and its opulent fruity taste.

Mr. Symington and his family, who are of Scottish heritage have lived in Portugal for many years, and as of 1970 they became the owners of W and J Graham and Company in Oporto, Portugal. However, they have been in the port making and distributing business since 1882.

The company consists of four large vineyards which are located about a two hour drive inland in a very mountainous area. The family also buys grapes from other properties.

Mr. Symington was in Bermuda this week conducting a tasting of some of his port wines in the tasting room at J.E. Lightbourn and Company Ltd. "I was in the US and the managing director of J.E Lightbourn's Mr. Trevor Nicholls asked me to come do a tasting but I also had a certain curiosity about Bermuda,'' Mr. Symington said.

He added: "I came to Bermuda during the war. My mother was taking us to the US and we landed in Bermuda aboard a clipper in 1941 and stayed here for about five hours.

"I always wanted to come back and see Bermuda so my trip here is mainly business but partly a nostalgia trip as well.'' The making of port wine is a long and sometimes uncertain business as you have to depend on the right climate to produce the types of grapes needed to make that perfect port.

"Port is a dessert drink,'' Mr. Symington said, "the grapes are picked when they are sweet, and the fruit's natural sugar is converted into alcohol and half way through fermentation we draw off the liquid and add 20 percent of brandy to the juice which stops the fermentation.

"When we have an exceptional year with the grapes that port is called a vintage port which means there was great climate, the grapes were very ripe had a lot of colour, and they had good aroma.'' Mr. Symington and his family, who consider themselves port fans, regularly enjoy a glass or two of port wine after every meal.

Their company produces 1.4 million cases of different kinds of port per year which is sold internationally.

"The consumption of port is growing around the world especially in the US and Canada. Britain and the US are the most important markets for our brands,'' Mr. Symington said.

He added that though the business can be quite lucrative it has its ups and downs.

"We have our good times and bad times. A small harvest can be very bad but normally the following year will make up for it. When that happens we blend the crop from the bad year with past ports. It is important to keep a consistent product.'' Port drinkers can choose from an array of different Symington family ports that can give you that special soothing feeling after having consumed a good meal.

And the ways in which they make certain kinds of port vary as some are darker in colour, and different in taste.

The company's tasters select full, fresh fruity wines for the blending of the luscious, deep-red Graham's Fine Ruby.

As with other non-dated ports, Fine Ruby is a blend of wines from several years. The task of the tasters is to maintain the exact colour, taste and consistency of this blend which is a perfect example of the style.

Fine Tawny Port is lighter in colour and texture than Ruby and is also slightly drier.

Graham's Fine Tawny combines these qualities with the rich, fruity style which is the hallmark of all Graham's Ports. The skillful inclusion in the blend of some older wines adds a lingering nutty taste.

Graham's Fine White Port is made in the same way as the reds except that white grape varieties are used exclusively. It is a fresh, delicate wine and especially pleasant when chilled.

Full-bodied Ports of very good quality from two or three different harvests are blended together and bottled without any filtration. After up to four years in bottle the wine will develop a deposit or "crust''.

Some four to five years after bottling a Crusted Port is ready to drink, having developed many of the characteristics of a Vintage Port. A Crusted Port is said to be an excellent alternative to the rare and expensive great "declared'' Vintage Ports.

PERFECT PORT -- Owner of W and J Graham's port vineyards in Oporto, Portugal Mr. James Symington holds one of his more popular bottles -- Six Grapes.