What a close call indeed. A mere ten years before I became involved with this wonderful wine trade one of my favourite grapes today was down to eight acres, producing 200 cases a year in the northern Rhone area of France.

I remember graphically showing one of our warehouse team how to pronounce its name (his version was “wog — ner”). I made a Winston Churchill V for victory sign with two fingers and said “vee”, then patted my head and said “ohn” and finally put both arms in the air and said “yay”. Now we had vee-ohn-yay for the viognier grape.

Since the early 1990s, it has spread its roots and thankfully is well established in many areas. I would like to tell you about ones from France, California and New Zealand. It is not easy to produce as picking time is critical — too early and it has not developed its wonderful aromas, too late and it is lacking in perfume and rather oily. I remember years ago sailing back to my island and smelling the flowers before we sighted land. That is the smell of viognier, as it is like walking through a garden in full bloom. Add peach, tangerine, mango and honeysuckle. Just beautiful.

I have heard it said that there is viognier and then there is Condrieu and indeed in this small, 500-acre appellation, only this grape is allowed. Since Roman times it has produced wine at its most dynamic and scented best. Chapoutier Invitare Condrieu 2015 is deep golden yellow with green tinges and the exotic nose is of white peaches, pineapple, acacia blossom, litchee and apricot. The power and aromatic intensity would accompany many Asian foods to perfection. Chapoutier is the largest biodynamic winegrower in France. A different take on this wine is from the Wine Spectator: “The 2015 Condrieu Invitare is a remarkably lithe and pure viognier, with lilting fennel and yellow apple notes that glide through the Kaffir lime-accented finish.” $72.80.

One review of Chapoutier Mirabel 2015 Viognier from “The Ministry of Drinks” in a country I will decline to name says: “It is great to have a clear-running viognier, exotic fruits assemble halfway. Ace wine!” Well in our language, it has fine aromas of apricot, pear and even marmalade. It is fresh and really quite lovely for $22.50 a bottle.

Gerard Bertrand Reserve Speciale Viognier 2015 hails from the south of France in the Languedoc region. It exhales notes of honeysuckle, ripe pear, peach, orange blossom and citrus fruits. Canadian critic Natalie Maclean puts it this way: “90/100. An incredibly great and aromatic French wine for the price. Wow. Lovely floral viognier from southern France by one of the region’s best-known producers. Aromas of clementine, apple blossom and honeydew on the nose. Lemon zest and mouthwatering on the palate. Medium to full-bodied. Intense and lovely. Great for Asian fare.” $18.95.

Off we go to Wairarapa in North Island and the oldest winery in New Zealand. Here is what they have to say about their Te Mata Estate 2014 Zara Viognier: “Bright gold, Zara ’14 is unprecedented in its level of complexity and texture. Luscious aromas of white peach and white flowers give way to a soft, flowing palate of exotic mandarin, apricots, hazelnuts with hints of lavender and honeysuckle. Powerful yet restrained, luxurious yet subtle, Zara ’14 fully delivers on New Zealand’s oldest viognier vines and an exceptional Hawke’s Bay vintage. Voluptuous viognier — Zara ’14 is a shining star.” Critic Bob Campbell gives it a 94/100. Zara is affectionately named after Zara Buck, the first-born child of the third generation of Te Mata Estate’s Buck family. Zara spent her childhood playing among the vines at the vineyard that is home to this delightful viognier.

All of the red and white wines that we stock from Bogle Vineyards in Clarksburg, California rate very high on my “yummy scale”. I had their petite sirah last night and it was delightful. Try their 2014 viognier for an appetising display of luscious aromas with fresh apricot and pear fruit tang on the palate. Balanced by the clean, floral tones of honeysuckle blooms and orange blossoms, this wine was fermented cold in stainless steel tanks to allow the varietal character to shine. If you are having pork, semi-soft cheeses or fresh fruits give it a try. Curries and Asian dishes would sing. $21.80.

After writing this I am seriously thinking of trying viognier with the fresh wahoo that I just bought for tonight as there are just so many pleasant thoughts about these wines on my mind.

This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. E-mail mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). Visit www.wineonline.bm.