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Best buys plus phenomenal buys

Stags Leap Winery in Yountville, California, where grapes were first planted in 1872 (Photograph supplied)

Each year Wine Enthusiast magazine publishes a list of their 100 best buys.

They explain it this way: “In a year when US gas prices, grocery prices, housing costs and interest rates all jumped dramatically, the price of a good bottle of wine still looked very attractive, if you knew what to look for.”

In fact, when the editors of Wine Enthusiast combed through the past year of reviews, it was not difficult to find 100 wines with very positive ratings, all priced at $15 and under. It would be fair for me to add that they do not pay $6 a litre duty on wine, or endure our freight costs, so our base price must be higher.

Ten wineries that we represent were on this list, but some were wines that we do not, or have never had in stock. I intend to just address chardonnay today, two from the top 100, and four that I would call phenomenal. The latter four can be found on the top shelf of our house’s little cooler that keeps 20 white and rosé bottles at 50F. They were there because someone in our house entered into another decade of their life last weekend.

I have mentioned a few times that 2020 J Lohr ‘Riverstone’ Chardonnay can usually be found in our home, and it made Wine Enthusiast’s list. Their winemaker, Kristen Barnhisel, talks of ripe oranges, peaches, cocoa and baking spices and even ripe pears, apricots, citrus cream, hazelnuts, and a hint of oak. The magazine awarded it 90 points and wrote: “This widely available wine is worth stocking for midweek enjoyment. Light aromas of lemon, honey, nectarine and crushed white rock lead into a palate of baked apple and lemon juice, all framed by a chalky structure.” The Somm Journal gave it even more points at 93/100 and I have seen it listed in the US for $17.99. Our price is $25.50 (Stock #7988).

2021 19 Crimes ‘Martha’s Chard’ California Chardonnay is also on the list with 91/100 and this opinion: “A deft touch with oak gives this medium- to full-bodied wine a spicy complexity, from a toasted baguette aroma to light butter and ginger flavours over golden apple and Bosc pear flavours.” This, of course, is the newest addition to the range of 19 Crimes wines from Australia, and more recently California. $24.70 (Stock #6222).

I would have liked to have told you about two very popular Chilean wines of ours that made the list, Cono Sur and Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc, but neither of them is in stock at this time. I am told that the organic Veramonte is on the dock and should be in shops shortly.

Now for the birthday wines and the chosen one should be able to accompany baked halibut in style. I had made sure that the top shelf of our wine fridge displayed four of her favourites. There was 2018 Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay, always one of the best whites for the money out of California, it is a big, lush wine that showcases the best of Napa Valley terroir and the vintage. A single-vineyard chardonnay sourced from the Gamble Ranch, near the town of Yountville, Napa, California in the Oakville American viticultural area, this wine highlights the richness and complexity of this varietal and has been a benchmark chardonnay since its first vintage in 1978.

James Suckling scored it 97 points saying: “This is a really solid white with so much structure and depth, as well as a borderless, encompassing palate. Full-bodied and polished with lots of length. Shows complex flavours, from cooked apples and lemons to stones and hints of flowers.” $62 (Stock #6277).

2019 Shafer ‘Red Shoulder Ranch’ Carneros Chardonnay, a perennial household favourite, came next with its 94 – 96 rating from Jeb Dunnuck, who expressed it this way: “I've always loved the chardonnay from this team and their 2019 Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch has that classic richer, full-bodied style while staying balanced and light on its feet. Buttered lemons, tangerines, green almond, and toasty notes all make an appearance, and it's incredibly textured, with nicely integrated acidity.” I like the story of the red shouldered hawks that control the rodent pests in a natural way in this vineyard. $66.90 (Stock #6815).

2018 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet was also laying there, and critic John Gilman said: “The 2018 Puligny AC from Maison Drouhin is a lovely example of the vintage: ripe, pure and stylish. The bouquet delivers a lovely combination of apple, pear, acacia blossoms, chalky soil tones and a judicious coating of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and succulent at the core, with good soil undertow, sound acids and fine focus and balance on the wide open and very tasty finish. Good juice.” $77.50 (Stock #8169).

Only one left and it became the chosen one. It was 2020 Stags’ Leap Winery Napa Valley Chardonnay. We felt that it was a stunning example of what their French winemaker can do with beautiful Napa fruit. For me it was seamless and exuded balance and harmony that greatly enhanced the birthday dinner. $48.45 (Stock #6340).

I am sure that the other three top-end chardonnays will be depleted this week as our youngest is due to arrive on the island soon, to help with the celebrations that continue. He likes lobster, rockfish, and wahoo, all of which are usually available about a hundred yards from our home. Then the following week and back to normal.

• This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Contact Michael Robinson at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Visit www.wineonline.bm

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Published October 14, 2022 at 4:56 am (Updated October 14, 2022 at 4:56 am)

Best buys plus phenomenal buys

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