The average temperature on a July day in Bermuda is 86F, according to the weather statistics folks.

This is much too warm to serve any red wine. We are advised to serve many reds, like cabernet sauvignon and merlot, at 60F.

I confess to tending towards the 65F to 70F mark that is more rewarding and comfortable for me.

If wines are too hot, the alcohol evaporates too quickly and overpowers them; too chilled and they take on a “hard” character. For today we will find out about reds that are happiest on, or a little above, 50F.

Our first four are all made from the gamay grape, which I have heard is for people that like to stop and smell the flowers.

It can remind us of pinot noir, and this is understandable as they are genetic cousins.

So here we are in the Beaujolais district, which borders Burgundy in France. We could try beaujolais, that comes from the whole area.

We could try beaujolais villages, which hail from 38 designated high-quality villages – but neither today. Instead, we will select three from the ten crus that are the cream of the crop.

Our 2018 Chateau Bellevue Les Charmes Morgon overlooks the town of Ville-Morgon in the heart of Beaujolais and it is considered a “crown jewel” of this appellation.

Today it belongs to Maison Jean Loron, who purchased it and modernised it in 2009. This vintage gives us cherry, kirsch, cinnamon, tobacco, and roses. Decanter magazine awards it 91 points and writes, “An appealing density and energy here, with firmly-structured yet refined black cherry fruit accompanying mineral, herbal and graphite elements – long, fresh and precise, with the potential to age.”

The Wine Advocate scores it 92/100. Try it at 56F to 57F. $27.35 (Stock #7889).

The 2020 Domaines des Billards Saint-Amour 2020 is from an eleven-acre plot that the Loron winery owns in Saint Amour, itself one of the smallest of the ten crus, at 706 acres.

Their farming is traditional and natural, with no use of herbicides. The soil is regularly ploughed to develop biodiversity.

The New York Times had these kind words to say about it: “Saint-Amour, the northernmost of the ten crus, annually gets popular around Valentine’s Day because of the romance of its name. This often leads to its being underestimated, but this bottle from Domaine des Billards is no holiday bonbon. It’s rich, ripe, and well-focused, with stony, earthy raspberry flavours.” $28 (Stock #7892).

At almost 1,800 acres of vineyards, Fleurie is a large cru, and its floral, fresh and fragrant and silky character causes it to be considered the most delicate (dare I say feminine) of the ten.

It possesses great charm with its luminous raspberry colour and aromas of lilac, violets, and gooseberry. It is supple and silky in the mouth. 2021 Joseph Drouhin Fleurie is priced at $32.50 (Stock #8173).

We all know the familiar saying: “If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it must be one.”

The 2020 Jean Loron Rift 69 Gamay comes from the Beaujolais appellation, and it is made from the grape designated for this category of wine. In fact, on the front label are the words gamay noir.

It displays a deep dark crimson robe with purple-blue tints and cherry, blackberry, and bilberry aromas, embellished with spicy and mineral notes.

The mouthfeel is round and balanced with noteworthy spice and liquorice length.

They do emphasise that it is crafted with absolutely no addition of sulphite from harvesting to bottling and this is unusual as small amounts are normally used to stabilise wine, as they are in so many of the products that we eat and drink. $22 (Stock #7730). Remember the 56F to 57F rule to enjoy these lovely gamay wines.

But onward – and downward in temperature – to California and a libation to sip at 50F to 55F.

I refer to the 2021 J. Lohr Wildflower Valdiguié from Paso Robles, that is crafted in the style of beaujolais, but made from a grape called valdiguié. Don’t worry as I had never heard of it myself until quite recently.

It used to be planted in the southwest of France, but rarely now. Up until 1980 it was called Napa gamay in California, but DNA tests have revealed its true identity.

It is light-bodied and displays inviting fresh raspberry, cranberry and pomegranate aromas with a bit of black pepper and hibiscus. It is juicy and mouth-watering. Since trying it last year it has become one for us to keep on hand at home. $25.60 (Stock #7982).

A few days ago, I tasted the 2019 Talbott Kali Hart Pinot Noir and I had forgotten how delicious it was. It is a fruit-forward expression of their coastal-influenced vineyards in Santa Lucia Highlands of California.

Aromas of dark plum and Bing cherry greet the nose with inviting notes of allspice and toasted vanilla.

Silky tannins reveal layers of strawberry-rhubarb and blackberry with a hint of dried herbs. The finish is long and luscious with a touch of minerality.

Critic James Suckling rates it 94/100 and comments, “Cedar and orange-peel aromas and flavours. Full-bodied and tight with firmness and focus. Chewy and polished with a long and focused finish. Nice polish to it.”

Also with 94/100, Canadian Natalie MacLean says: “Dry, full-bodied, rich, and concentrated with ripe cherry, raspberry, cedar brush spice and citrus zest flavours zesty on the palate.

“Tannins are firm and chewy. Needs a bit of time to mellow and marry, try after 2024. Pinot noir food pairings: rack of lamb, pesto pasta with grilled lamb, beef stew.”

I will add salmon and fresh Bermuda tuna steak. $31 (Stock #6781). Please experience all that pinot noir can reveal by serving them from 55F to 60F.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm