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Wines for the times

The winemakers of House of Brown, the first Black-owned winery in Napa Valley (Photograph supplied)

The 2020 Jim Barry Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia is named for a cricket shot.

Wikipedia tells us about in this way: “The cover drive is considered one of the most graceful shots playable in the sport. Batsmen able to master the cover drive are usually given especially high praise because of the shot's difficulty in execution and its requirement for exquisite timing.”

The Jim Barry winery specifically chose to pick its cabernet sauvignon grapes from the cooler-climate Clare Valley and Coonawarra regions as, in these spots, the grape develops deliciously over a long ripening period.

The result is an old world-esque wine with notes of blackberries, cherries, black plums, cedar mocha and oak. $25.15 (Stock #6421). This wine, with such an appropriate label of a man in full cricket gear and up at bat, is also available in party-sized magnums at $47.35 (Stock #6428).

Our 2019 Jim Barry First Eleven Cabernet Sauvignon is better understood when one knows that Jim Barry seized the opportunity to acquire the heritage Penola cricket ground in 1950.

The original pavilion was retained, and vines were established around the cricket pitch. It endures as the spiritual home of the most memorable Coonawarra vintages.

First XI honours the legends of Australian cricket, only ever produced in exceptional years, of which 2019 was one. For those not familiar with the game, a player who is part of the first eleven is considered the most skilful at playing his or her role on the team.

This wine has a deep red appearance. On the nose, lifted Coonawarra mint exhibits its providence, with cassis, boysenberry, tobacco and savoury herbs.

Bright currant and dark cherry fruit are flanked by fine, savoury tannin, giving the palate both intensity and directive structure.

Layers of sweet fruit and savoury notes combine to give a wine of complexity and seamless balance. A persistent finish displaying distinctive Coonawarra cassis fruit and mouth-coating, chalky tannins. $48.90 (Stock #6422).

Folks all around the world know that we enjoy The Beach Rosé from Chateau d’Esclans of Whispering Angel renown. We presently have the 2022 vintage in stock.

You may be aware that wineries like to quote articles, reviews and ratings on their offerings, and I was recently made aware of the fact that Chateau d’Esclans has included a snippet of a review that I made earlier this year in this newspaper.

Now many countries that get this promotional material know that I wrote that The Beach seems to be custom-designed for Bermuda, with the pink packaging and palm tree on the label.

Capitalising on the tremendous success of its sister wine the label does say, “The Beach by Whispering Angel''.

This rosé displays great aromatic freshness with aromas of red berries along with hints of lime and melon. It finishes with peach and citrus. $25.95 (Stock #8122).

I always remember being told that my job, back in the early 1970s, was totally unnecessary. I was part of the sales team for IBM, and some people reasoned that IBM just sold itself.

Not so, and I really should not ignore market-leading and trendsetting wines – so here is a little boost for one that significantly changed the habits of drinkers of white wine.

In 1961 Count Marzotto, founder of the Santa Margherita winery (named after his wife), decided to put a new twist on winemaking.

Until then, the pinot grigio, a variety native to northern Italy, had been vinified using the traditional method that produced a copper-coloured wine from dusty and quite dark grapes.

He immediately separated the juice from the colour-adding skins, and this gave rise to a new white wine that was much more elegant and sophisticated, and it managed to captivate and surprise the whole world.

If you, like so many, decide to enjoy the summer with 2022 Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio be ready for honeysuckle, jasmine, apple, pear, peach, apricot, nectarine, cherry, grapefruit, tangerine and almond.

This wine is consistently good and of course this is so necessary if it is to continue to be the market leader. $24.35 (Stock #8896).

If you would like to have a delicious bottle of Californian red on hand for the long weekend you cannot go wrong with 2019 Louis Martini Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon. It was on December 5, 1933 that Louis Martini purchased a ten-acre prune orchard in Napa Valley and established a winery that is historically significant. For this rich and balanced wine with supple tannins, they have sourced their fruit from Sonoma Valley that lies over the mountains and to the west of Napa.

Critic James Suckling gives it a very respectable score of 93 points and writes: “A delicious, savoury cabernet with aromas and flavours of dried flowers and cherries. Medium body with round, creamy tannins. Savoury and flavourful. Supple. Real cabernet character.” $32 (Stock #8681).

Let’s finish with 2020 House of Brown Rosé, a blend of zinfandel, muscat canelli and viognier from vineyards in Lodi.

The things that make this Napa Valley winery unique are that it was the first Black-owned winery in this beautiful valley, and they tell us that their wines are “produced by women of colour and their methods are certified sustainable and vegan-friendly”.

This rosé is a beautiful pale pink with silver flecks. On the nose: star jasmine, watermelon, raspberry, wild strawberry, blood orange, Yuzu, hints of honeycomb and baking spice.

On the palate: lithe, vibrant, and dynamic. Light body with silky texture and delightfully subtle finish.

These talented ladies suggest enjoying it with fried fish sandwiches; Niçoise salad; potato and spring pea galette; shrimp and grits; watermelon, feta, and mint salad. $24.90 (Stock #6896).

This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm

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Published August 02, 2023 at 7:59 am (Updated August 02, 2023 at 7:35 am)

Wines for the times

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