If memory serves me correctly it was Baby Bear’s porridge that was just right for Goldilocks, as it was neither too hot nor too cold. Presenting a similar thought process, I would like to suggest that the magnum bottle is just right for the ageing of fine wine.

Half-bottles, bottles and magnums usually use the same sized corks, and it would seem that the tiny amount of air that seeps through is just right in magnums.

Methuselahs (8 bottles), Salmanazars (12 bottles) and even bigger, are spectacular and fun but for quality and age ability, magnums are ideal.

At this time Burrows Lightbourn lists 28 magnums that would be impressive and fun to open at a dinner for four or six people.

Although popular and representing very good value, the story of lower-priced, and well-made magnums of what I like to call Monday to Thursday night wines are not the story for today.

Our 2018 Catena-Alta Historic Rows Malbec is created by the leading wine family in Argentina, and they tell us that selecting fruit from very special rows in their vineyards is like picking a marriage of sounds that create a symphony. In their case, a highly aromatic and elegant wine that speaks for the earth and the vines.

Canadian critic Natalie Maclean is obviously impressed as she scores it an exceptional 95/100 and writes, “From Catena Zapata, Catena Alta Historic Rows 2018 is produced from 100 per cent malbec and is a dry, elegant and medium-bodied Argentinian red with fresh blueberry, blackberry, fine herbs softly spice and savoury on the palate.

“Very elegant. Malbec food pairings: lamb cutlets, beef tenderloin, cheddar cheese, herb-rubbed roast chicken.” I would suggest pouring this, and the others, gently into a decanter at the table. $89.20 (Stock #6156).

The winemaker of 2019 M. Chapoutier La Bernadine Châteauneuf-du-Pape suggests serving tuna carpaccio, all meats (marinated or in sauces) large game and cheese. The main grape is grenache that gives the wine elegance, silky tannins, and great finesse. Syrah and mourvèdre are included, and the result is a subtle nose of blackcurrants and plums followed by roasted coffee, cinnamon and morello cherry.

The Wine Spectator writes, “Solidly built, with a well-formed core of plum, blackberry and black cherry compote flavours supported by warm earth, anise, plum pit and black tea. 93/100.” $98 (Stock #9455).

Judging by the considerable number of cases of 2020 Jim Barry The Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon that we have in stock I can say that it is a big hit and at $47.35 this is no wonder.

Australia’s Clare Valley, where wine has been flowing since 1851, only accounts for 1.5 per cent of this countries’ total production, but it is among the most prestigious regions.

Notes of juicy blackcurrant and blackberry are balanced by savoury hints of dried herbs and attractive earthy notes.

The palate delivers generous red and blackcurrant fruit, with liquorice, tobacco, and savoury oak overtones. Soft, silky tannins round out this harmonious and moreish wine. (Stock #6428).

I would like to share a few remarkable reviews for a perfect candidate for the cellar as I imagine that it has many years of life ahead of it.

Better yet, try one now to understand how a young wine can be exciting. 2019 Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte is the second wine of a great Bordeaux property that was classified in 1959, and it is organic.

Decanter rates it 94/100 and comments, “Green bell pepper, eucalyptus, dark chocolate and perfumed cherries and blackcurrants on the nose – so much aromatic intensity. Immediate impact on the palate with weighty tannins that are ample and mouth coating.”

James Suckling, also with 94 points, says, “Spices such as cloves and white pepper, with violets and dark fruit follow through to a full body with firm, chewy tannins and a polished yet intense finish.

“Open tannins. An ash-like undertone to it. Try after 2027.” Also ringing in with 94/100 is The Wine Enthusiast with, “The 2019 Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte is fabulous. Rich, powerful and vibrant, Le Petit packs a serious punch. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this jewel of a wine. Black cherry, plum, new leather …”

If you do put a couple in a cool, quiet place then try in five and then ten years. Be patient! $115 (Stock #9686).

You have $60 to spend, friends are invited for dinner, and you want to impress. How about 2018 Marques de Riscal Reserva Rioja from Spain? It is 90 per cent tempranillo, 10 per cent graciano and mazuelo from 30- to 40-year-old vines.

A hand selection and triage are done as the grapes come into the winery and only the best grapes of the vintage are selected for use in this reserva.

After slow, temperature-controlled fermentation that brings deep colour and extract, the wine spends approximately two years in American oak barrels, creating a fine structure and added complexity, but extended bottle age, as required for reserva, brings soft, supple tannins along with delightful fruit and spice that linger on a long finish.

The Wine Spectator said of it "Fresh and balanced, this medium-bodied red offers plumped cherry fruit flavours accented by baking spices, iron and Earl Grey tea. Supple tannins lend a plush texture and firm the finish. Tempranillo and graciano. Drink now." Stock #9354.

The 2019 Etude Grace Benoist Ranch Estate Pinot Noir ends our story about magnums in the beautiful rolling hills of the Carneros District that runs along the shore of San Francisco Bay and at the bottom of Napa and Sonoma Valleys.

This Etude Carneros Pinot Noir is a true reflection of the winery’s estate vineyard, Grace Benoist Ranch. A blend of the best grapes from individual vineyard parcels on the Ranch, this wine tells the story of a particular vintage from a unique place.

James Suckling writes, in August of 2021, “Dried strawberries with spices, such as cloves and peppercorns, as well as some dried flowers. Medium to full body with a pretty core of ripe pinot, fine and linear tannins, and a long fresh finish. Needs time to open, but vibrant and attractive now.” $145 (Stock #6030).

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of its wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm