It looks to me as if Burrows Lightbourn has been on rather a shopping spree in Italy and now, after a few years, they have two of my favourite wineries back in stock.

We will start in Tuscany, and I will let Fèlsina tell you a little about themselves:

“The estates of Fèlsina, developed over more than 1,000 years, still represent the basic drive of our work culture. Like all good farmers, our main concern is to protect the soil’s natural fertility, which we strive to do by keeping an open mind to new techniques, avoiding excess, and working in an experimental environment that embraces biodynamic production through the most modern technologies and innovations available worldwide.

“An enterprise the size and diversity of Fèlsina holds a profound responsibility not only to the vineyards it runs, but to preserve the ecosystem and natural environment, keeping the human and technological impact in check. Woods, cereal-sown fields, olive groves, ditches and streams, smaller fields for cultivated and wild herbs and medicinal plants like alfalfa, sorghum, millet, sunflower, field beans, all contribute to the preservation of biodiversity.”

Leading off with 2020 Fèlsina Chianti Classico Berardenga I see that James Suckling has awarded this 92/100 and written, “Plums, cherry stones, button mushrooms, white pepper and bark on the nose. Lemon and cardamom too. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and fine, powdery tannins. Savoury.”

Not far behind, at 91/100 the Wine Spectator comments, “A charming, harmonious chianti classico, this exudes cherry, plum and thyme flavours, with elements of earth and mineral. Delivers dense tannins that exert influence on the finish, yet this remains balanced.” $39.90 (Stock #9062).

The 2019 Fèlsina Chianti Classico Reserva Rancia scores 95 points with James Suckling and the site First Bottle says, “Ninety-five points plus triple 94s … this is an iconic chianti producer with an estate that dates back to the Roman Empire. Mysterious, wild, and modern – this powerful expression of chianti classico boasts over a decade-plus of development to come.

“Drink this as you would a Brunello di Montalcino and savour the sense of place that defines this exceptional chianti. From an estate that was once a post station of the Roman Empire – situated on an important road and designed as a place to meet, take rest, and reinvigorate oneself for the journey ahead.” Please be invigorated by your very own bottle for $70 (Stock #9063).

The 2019 Fèlsina Fontaloro is a 100 per cent sangiovese “Super Tuscan” that is ruby red in colour with rich and intense tones. You will find aromatic herbs, tobacco, wet earth, black currant, and liquorice. This wine has a long life ahead of it but will show well now, especially if you decant it. Suckling rates it 96/100. $85 (Stock #9019).

Our 2019 Fèlsina Cabernet Sauvignon Maestro Raro is a new one for me, and with two birthdays on the near horizon in our home, it sounds like a must try for us! Their winemaker tells us that it is, “deep red with shades of purple and violet”.

“Aromas of berries, tobacco, leather, and black tea, without any particular herbal or grassy notes. Consistent, warm, and harmonious on the palate. Good elegance and persistence with ample finish.”

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gives it 96 points and says, “A lovely expression with deep layers of dark fruit and savoury spice that are woven tightly together to form a solid core of primary and secondary flavours. This vintage is especially tight and concentrated, showing terrific balance and freshness and impeccable fruit ripeness that is generous and full. There are no green elements in this vintage. Instead, the fruit is beautifully rich and velvety.” $73 (Stock #9023).

Two events of particular importance took place in 1977 – for me, I met my wife, and for Guiseppe and Lidia Rivetti, they founded La Spinetta winery in Piedmont. Their wines are beacons of quality. Starting with their 2020 La Spinetta Barbera d’Alba Cà di Pian we find intense aromas of blackberries and morello cherries, spices, and vanilla. It is captivating and fresh and even has hints of chocolate and tobacco that makes it eminently pair-able with grilled meats, pasta dishes and aged cheeses. $34.90 (Stock #9246).

Hopefully, it is acceptable for me to say that barbaresco is more feminine than barolo, but of course a beautiful wine. Our 2020 La Spinetta Barbaresco Bordini garners this from the Wine Advocate: “The La Spinetta 2020 Barbaresco Bordini (with 10,000 bottles made) has a spicy note on the nose that recalls cinnamon and a touch of something darker like crushed clove. This warm-vintage expression of nebbiolo embraces rich fruit aromas of blackberry and dark currant, and there is an earthy side with rusty nail and potting soil. It closes with high-toned accents of balsam herb or eucalyptus oil. 93/100.” $68 (Stock #9261).

The La Spinetta Barolo Vigneto Garretti 2019 shows why the discussion goes on as to whether the sangiovese grape of Tuscany takes the top prize in Italy or the nebbiolo of Piedmont. Personally, I have been bowled over by both and could not answer. Going back to the Wine Advocate we read, “The La Spinetta 2019 Barolo Garretti opens to a crisp, almost tart quality with red fruit, cassis, pomegranate and a hint of red apple. Those bright primary tones cede to spice and earthy mineral or baked clay. The wine is distinguished by a pretty hint of liquorice root that cuts a line throughout the entire bouquet. The 2019 vintage shows extra finesse and structure to the palate. 94/100.” $79.00 (Stock #9262).

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are located in Hamilton (corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm