Rhone wines with roast turkey
First, a brief explanation for the lack of an article last week. On November 17, I wrote of exceptional wines for a special birthday and Thanksgiving celebrations. Little did I know that three days later I would be eating a salad and enjoying a glass of 2021 Apothic Red, that ever-popular blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that sells for $24.30. Stock #8684. This was in the Atlanta airport on the day of my birth, and rotisserie chicken, coleslaw and potato salad in a very small-town hotel room near Green Bay in Wisconsin on Thanksgiving! In this case a bottle of 2020 Simi Chardonnay was fortunately procured, and it opened with flavours of pear and apple with hints of citrus and tropical notes, followed by flavours of toasted sweet oak and crème brûlée. It is an old favourite. $29.95. Stock #6105. Sad family emergency is now dealt with, and I am back at the keyboard thinking of roast turkey dinner again.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir may seem obvious choices, but flavourful stuffing, tart cranberry and baked vegetables such as carrots and Brussels sprouts can complicate matters and so match well with the multi-grape blend that originated back in the 1400s when the Pope moved to Avignon and built his new castle (Chateauneuf-du-Pape). He planted Garnacha vines from nearby Spain and in France they became Grenache. In 1936 Chateauneuf-du-Pape developed the very first Appellation d’origine contrôlée laws and at 12.5 per cent minimum it set the highest minimum amount of alcohol allowed. At thirteen grape varieties permitted, and upped to eighteen in 2009, it is also unique.
I am going to suggest Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Gigondas and even Cotes-du-Rhone, so that you can set your budget at three levels. 2019 Domaine du Pegau “Cuvée Réservée” Châteauneuf-du-Pape rates 97 points with the Wine Advocate along with this review. “The 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée looks set to rival the best examples of this bottling. Made up of approximately 80 per cent Grenache, with 6 per cent Syrah, 4 per cent Mourvèdre and smaller amounts of other permitted varieties, it's impressively complex on the nose, with scents of black cherries, blackberries and black olives, plus mysterious wafts of violets and garrigue. Full-bodied, rich, and concentrated, it finishes long and velvety”. $69.00. Stock #5933. Magnums $124.00. Stock #5935.
The winery has this to say about their 2019 M. Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Collection Bio Facelie”. “Our own vineyards and the single vineyards we select are cultivated either organically or biodynamically to respect the terroir. Michel Chapoutier maintains a philosophy of biodynamic viticulture. Michel is an inspiring and visionary leader who does not hesitate to develop breakaway solutions in line with his convictions. He is passionate about revealing the expression of the site and soil. He combines the history and tradition of the past with innovation, daring and creativity. Core values at the heart of M Chapoutier include respect of nature, daring to open new horizons and generosity of spirit.
M. Chapoutier’s ecologically certified Châteauneuf-du-Pape is made from the Grenache and Syrah grapes, with a predominant proportion of the former. All the grapes are hand-harvested and strictly sorted, and the wine ferments in cement tanks 3-4 weeks at a maximum of 32 degrees. Subsequent storage takes place in large oak casks over 15 to 18 months. However, M. Chapoutier’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape adheres to the delicate side, and is characterised by ripe red berries, orange peel and a discreet hint of white pepper”. $48.70. Stock #9453.
Now we move on the 2017 Laurence Feraud Gigondas that Laurence owns with her father, along with the legendary Domaine du Pegau, and this wine is a shiny dark red in the glass. On the nose it reveals a breathtaking scent of black cherries, ripened blackberries, violets, pepper, thyme and rosemary with hints of liquorice, tar, leather, truffles and vanilla. It is powerful and dense on the palate with aromas of red and black berries accompanied by herbs and the long finish ends with tasty tannins. At $35.00 it certainly offers hints of what its big brother, Chateauneuf- du-Pape, is capable of. Stock #7911.
For $39.50 2020 M. Chapoutier Gigondas “Les Jocasses” also offers his version and it is organic. A rich burgundy colour carries into silky tannins and hints of ripe fruit and then touches of ground pepper, leather and woody nuances follow. This wine has a noble charm with hints of tobacco and smoke, and it would be wonderful with tasty turkey and all the trimmings. Stock #39.50.
Although only $19.95 we certainly have enjoyed the so reasonably priced 2017 Domaine du Pegau Cotes-du-Rhone Cuvée Maclura in our home. It is from a highly respected producer who has blended Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault to exhibit pure and aromatic notes of black currants and liquorice. It is elegant with a supple mouthfeel and pleasant finish. Your guests would never guess that it cost you less than $20.00. Stock #7904.
Rasteau is a much-respected and quite new AOC, created in 2010, and from this area we have 2020 Chapoutier Cotes-du-Rhone Rasteau that is a typical blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes. Although a very reasonable $27.15 it has a deep and intense colour and displays ripe redcurrant, blackcurrant and raspberry. The nose is floral with sweet spices and there is good length to its finish. Stock #9448.
If you decide to have a “Very Rhone” Christmas, I am sure that your friends and family will be joyfully happy.
• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn stores are located in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are located in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of its wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm
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