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Codfish and potatoes: the origins

Codfish and potatoes with avocado, egg and tomato onion sauce

There was a recent conversation between a senior Black Bermudian and a tourist who was interested in the Sunday codfish-and-potato breakfast tradition. The Black Bermudian, having described the breakfast as a Bermudian tradition, was quickly but politely countered by a senior White Bermudian standing near by, who said, “That’s not a Bermuda tradition; it’s a slave tradition and what we served the slaves.”

Naturally, this became an interesting and respectful debate between two seniors sharing a different cultural perspective about what they shared in common, but whose experiences were different.

Bermuda is known for its local fish, in particular rockfish and wahoo, so why would salted codfish top the menu for Sunday morning breakfast? Again, we may ask why only Sundays because up until recent times, it was the only time it was served.

It may also be true that this Sunday salt codfish tradition is indeed a carry-over from slavery. Because fresh fish was always available, and salted cod was more difficult to process, it might have been a cheap meal enhanced over time by the enslaved. This saga repeats itself all over the world, where the poor are given the leftovers and turn them into what are now national delicacies. There is nothing superior to fresh fish when available.

Bermudians, Black and White, have a long maritime association with the salt trade and cod, travelling routes between Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, New York and Turks Island where they harvested salt. They carried salt as far north as Newfoundland and returned with salted codfish that is in abundance in the waters of Newfoundland and the Canadian Maritimes.

Adding to the Bermuda codfish conundrum are the Portuguese, who arrived in 1857. Lisbon has as its national dish codfish and potatoes. They naturally eat fresh cod and not salt, but the Portuguese-Bermudian adaptation given its popularity in Portugal would be of interest to this conversation.

The basic dish of boiled salt cod with potatoes with the inclusion of boiled egg, tomato and onion sauce with a banana and slices of avocado served with olive oil, mayonnaise, and butter combined is called “The Bermuda Breakfast”. The tradition is so long and deep that we may have forgotten its origin. One thing that can be said is that the tradition is truly Bermudian. The other thing to be said is that it is very common and folky and a very typical thing to find on a Sunday morning almost anywhere on someone’s stove.

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Published January 26, 2024 at 8:00 am (Updated January 26, 2024 at 7:13 am)

Codfish and potatoes: the origins

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