A few special suggestions
I was recently asked if I would speak to a group that wanted to have a wine tasting and the request was made to have mostly white wines, as some were concerned about the fact that they occasionally were adversely affected by reds. This got me thinking about the few of us that can react unpleasantly to histamines.
I picked all six wines accordingly. I explained that histamines, found in many foods, and primarily in the case of wine, come from the skin.
Reds may have three times as much as whites, and possibly more. It is best for sensitive people to enjoy reds from thin skinned grapes, often grown in cooler climates, such as Pinot Noir, Merlot, Grenache, Dolcetto, and Barbera.
Oak can also contribute to a lesser degree, so if you are really sensitive be cautious of heavily oaked whites.
While we are at it, I will also consider the good health of our wonderful planet and just pick from sustainable, organic, or biodynamic stocks that we have, a category that thankfully is growing worldwide.
The primary grape planted in the area of Bordeaux known as St Emilion is Merlot, and so 2020 Chateau Fonplegade St. Emilion Grand Cru starts our story. This 90 per cent Merlot and 10 per cent Cabernet Franc has been organic since 2013 and their 2020 is now certified biodynamic.
Decanter magazine awards it a quite remarkable 95/100 and writes, “beautiful aromatics, vibrant, full of clarity and bright fruit delivery. Plum, blueberry, bursting with juicy life. Keeps delivering on the palate also, sprightly and vibrant, and soaked in limestone, wet stone personality. Has good depth of flavour, with a kick on the finish. Will age well, this is great stuff, a brilliant example of St-Emilion limestone”.
I have loved visiting this area where the natural limestone used for walls reminds me of our Island. Merlot can be enjoyed quite young, but this is also a beauty for the cellar. $69.80. Stock #9311.
Still in Europe, we travel to northern Italy to try 2020 Bruno Rocca Dolcetto D’Alba “Trifole” that is yours for a modest $24.00 and yet “Vinous” scores it 92/100 and tells us, “The 2020 Dolcetto d'Alba Trifolè is gorgeous. Deep, bold and luscious, the 2020 possesses tremendous depth from start to finish. Intense blue/purplish fruit, lavender, liquorice and cloves are all kicked up in this richly textured Dolcetto. This is the first vintage fermented 70 per cent in oak with 30% whole clusters. 2020 is a total knock-out”.
It is my understanding that this historic winery has been farming organically for at least ten years now. Stock #7814.
I have always very much appreciated any wine that hails from La Spinetta and their 2020 La Spinetta Barbera D’Asti “Ca Di Pian” has such a fresh reminder of flowers, herbs, delicious cherries, plums, and cassis.
It is also silky and rich and just right with pasta dishes or soft cheese. The producer treats our environment with the utmost respect and care. $34.90. Stock #9246.
More than 96 per cent of all New Zealand wineries are certified sustainable, which is astonishing.
If you were to ask me what the difference is between sustainable, organic and biodynamic, I would have to get the O.K. from this fine newspaper to fill the whole page!
Rest assured that they are all very aware that wine is the climate and the goodness of Mother Earth trapped in the bottle! We must nurture and care for it and her.
2018 Seresin “Leah” Marlborough Pinot Noir is named for the daughter of Michael Seresin who “practices what he preaches” in this biodynamic winery by not even eating meat, due to its impact on the environment.
Their website shares this: “We are a new-world winery with an old-world approach - we are in no hurry when it comes to our wines. We let the wild yeasts that live in our vineyard ferment the grape juice into wine.
“Working this way does take a little more time, but we get wines with added savouriness and with more mouth-watering textures and flavours.
“They also show a unique sense of place. We let all our wines spend time in barrels or bottles before release. Good things come to those who wait.”
Spend $29.90 and find bright, fragrant berry-fruit aromas, interlaced with spice and herbal notes. Stock #8716.
Not only is Chile such a geographically beautiful country, but land and labour costs reflect in well-made and very reasonably priced wines.
When you combine a sunny Mediterranean climate with one of the most isolated countries, Chile is a vine grower's paradise.
At Veramonte, they believe in preserving this and are careful to be as sustainable as possible in the winery and farm all of their vineyards organically. The fruit for 2020 Veramonte Merlot is grown on their estate in the beautiful Casablanca Valley where it ripens slowly, thanks to the gentle cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean. The result is velvety, elegant, and intense. $19.50. Stock #6194.
2020 Veramonte Pinot Noir is made from grapes that are harvested at night and carefully de-stemmed to ensure whole berry characteristics during cold soak maceration (the time when the pulp and skins react with the juice).
Grapes are fermented in small open tanks with 100 per cent native yeasts, preserving the natural aromas and flavours of the vineyards. The wine is then aged in French and neutral (reused) oak for 12 months. James Suckling rates it 91/100 and if you happen to see a bottle of the 2019, he scored 92 points. $19.95. Stock #6189.
If we travel up to Paso Robles in California, I will let the winery tell us that their 2020 J. Lohr Estates Los Osos Merlot is “medium-dark in colour with a red hue. Varietal aromas of black plum and violet meld with the light barrel signature of baking spices and toasted pastry. This wine has earned the Certified California Sustainable seal”. $27.00. Stock #7997.
Hopefully there will not be a sneeze in the room if you try any of these wines.
• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. The Burrows Lightbourn retail store is located Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm
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