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Rock climbing pioneer vows to return

Rock cuts: once considered the best rock climber in the world, “Hot” Henry Barber is seen scaling Scaur Quarry, Somerset Island, in 1972

An American once hailed as the world’s top rock climber said Bermuda’s cliffs were “world class” after a recent visit to the island.

Henry Barber, now 64, scaled some of the island’s highest cliffs thanks to his involvement in a book being written by local climber and author Grant Farquhar.

Mr Farquhar was researching Gogarth Anthology: The White Cliff about a tough rock face in Wales when he asked Mr Barber if he could use an excerpt from a 1982 biography of the famous climber.

Mr Barber agreed — and also accepted an invitation to come and climb on the island.

He told Mr Farquhar that he had honeymooned in Bermuda in the 70s and was keen to return and try out some its toughest climbs.

Mr Barber climbed in Clarence Cove at Admiralty Park and at Bermuda’s highest cliff, the 100 foot Great Head in St David’s, on his four-day visit last month.

Mr Barber said: “Bermuda’s climbing is world class and unique. There’s nowhere quite like it in the world.”

Mr Barber climbed on more than 300 days of the year throughout the 1970s and travelled the globe on a hunt for more challenges to conquer.

He climbed The Strand on Gogarth, Anglesey, Wales considered one of the hardest routes on the cliff, without a rope and without a practice run.

Mr Barber — known as Hot Henry at his professional peak — put his life on the line during the dangerous solo climb, carried out for an American TV programme.

Mr Farquhar wrote on his blog about his Bermuda visit that Mr Barber “climbs surely and steadily with no dithering”.

He added: “The steepest sections cause him to pause and there is some down climbing, but he is always in control.”

Mr Farquhar said that Mr Barber was so impressed with Bermuda he promised to return for more climbs.

He said: “He was pretty good. He is no longer the best climber in the world but he is still out there doing it. I always thought that Bermuda’s climbing was good — he pointed out that there are cliffs everywhere but not with the combination of Bermuda’s unique setting.

“He said it was world class which is pretty interesting to hear from someone with his background. He had a good time. He is still in touch — he lives in Boston so I’m pretty sure he will be back.”

Mr Farquhar added once he finished his book — which will be self-published by Atlantis Publishing — he wanted to write another about Bermuda’s climbing scene. Gogarth Anthology: The White Cliff is scheduled to be published later this year.

Still got it: rock climbing legend “Hot” Henry Barber scales The Great Head, St David’s Island at 100 feet above the ocean last month