It's time to think action in the garden. Spring is around the corner and the weather is still a little uncertain, but preparation beats procrastination.

Creating a schedule will help in flagging year-round tasks for example lawn care; inspect lawn to determine whether to verticut to remove thatch (dead grass) or hollow tining is required owing to compaction; mowing when required and ensuring the correct height of cut; fertilising at the correct time which will give the best bang for the buck and especially for weed control as fertilising lawns where weeds are present encourages their growth and therefore spread. Pests and diseases in lawns are limited in Bermuda except in the case of St. Augustine lawns when chinch bug control is a must.

Flower beds add interest to the garden, that's why we plant them as such, however to increase their flowering capabilities, refrain from unnecessary pruning and concentrate on enhancing healthy strong growth. Weed control allows plants to take up available water during periods of drought; it can also reduce the incidence of pests that host the insects. Fertilising with the right mix at the correct time of year also encourages good growth.

Overplanting is often a problem in our gardens simply because we buy a plant which is small in a one gallon container and fail to understand the realisation of growth! Another major problem it the need to understand that for a plant to grow and grow well it needs a root zone in which to grow and become established. Small planting holes, especially when in rock, immediately put the plant at a disadvantage simply because once the 'planting hole' is filled with roots, further growth is restrained which impacts the top growth.

In such situations, now is a good time to survey the garden and note any plants that are too large for a specific area or are in competition with its neighbour and pruning will not rectify the problem.

In such cases consider relocating the plant elsewhere – contingent on it being healthy, if it is 'unhealthy', it is best to dump it – but the new area should be able to accommodate its future needs of root and top growth spread.

Hedges are invariably at the mercy of the machete syndrome which by the end of the "attack" renders the hedge with an open growth delicately displaying the plants innards, and this is to create privacy!

Regular pruning on flowering plants such as hibiscus reduces flower production, and creates a spur effect on the 'cut line' which after awhile renders the plant with a crew cut top and sparse growth below, not at all attractive and detrimental to long term development of growth.

Correct pruning based on an as and when required approach will produce a dense foliage screen which actually flowers over a long period of time; I would suggest that if planted at the correct on centre distances, hedges should be pruned no more than three times per year.

For example, hibiscus planted at four feet apart will grow in rapidly if maintained properly, as will oleander, so the selection of a healthy plant, installed in a large hole and with good maintenance will give the desired effect.

When plants are too close together they tend to fight for space with the result that growth is drawn and etiolated, not a good recipe for creating dense growth.

Mature specimen trees and palms can make or break a landscape. Their importance is undervalued until it is too late. Out of sight is out of mind is often the scenario for large trees that become diseased through lack of attention or more accurately inspection. A tree surgeon is trained to identify problems as well as recommending correct principles and practice in the long term health of trees; therefore it is advisable to carry out such inspections at least every other year. The cost of one inspection could well save thousands of dollars in having to remove a large specimen tree roots and all!

Compaction around root zones can be considerable if cars or vehicles are allowed to 'trespass' over the root system, compaction can cause problems to root systems and the uptake of nutrients etc.

It is a common practice to cut and remove palm leaves whenever; removal during the winter months is not advisable as it can weaken the 'neck' of the plant thereafter leaving the younger leaves to the vagaries of Mother Nature.

The weather during the first half of February was so mild I noticed a Tulip Tree (Spathodea campanulata) in bloom, this could well be the case with other plants, and hopefully they will bloom again during the year.

Young growth at this time of the year is a sitting duck for salt laden winds, winter is not finished yet, so hold off on the 'pruning', after all April showers do more good that March winds!