The pen might be mightier than the sword, but a well-honed pair of secateurs, a hand saw, or loppers will be a cut above the rest when pruning.

There is a reason for pruning and more especially, why, how, and when we prune, and why correct pruning creates a more floriferous landscape and less damage to the visual impact of the garden.

Pruning controls potential growth, encourages new growth whilst developing shape and integrity; it removes crossing branches, weak growth as well as dying, ageing and diseased wood; root pruning is also part of a maintenance programme to control ‘wayward’ root systems damaging underground structures and utilities.

It is the equivalent of an annual physical without the X-rays!

Whether a tree or a shrub, palm or a vine, ground cover, herbaceous cacti, or succulent, at some point in time, some removal of growth will be required.

Pruning can incorporate removal of branches on trees, stems on shrubs, fronds from palms and ferns, excessive growth on vines, the declining state of foliage on herbaceous plants or old leaves and flower spikes from cacti and succulents.

Primarily, the cut should be clean and leave no snags or tears, which could lead to disease infection.

When working with mature trees, pruning is often necessitated by the problem of rot often found in the upper reaches of the canopy at the junction of two boughs were rainwater settles, starts to ‘pond’ and thereafter starts to seep into the wood and starts a process of decay.

As such problems are not easily identified from the ground, it is advisable to use the services of a trained tree surgeon who can climb into the canopy and inspect the area from a ‘bird’s eye view’ and advise on what he sees.

Shrubs are more manageable and workable from ground level; inspection should include checking the stability of the plant, ie, it is anchored well in the ground and does not move in the wind which will have an adverse effect on the top growth.

The physical appearance of a plant should be natural with a multi-tiered system of branches preferably growing in an outwards direction and does not cross or rub against neighbouring branches.

When this is seen, the offending branch should be removed with a clean cut from above a node – potential new growth – at angle sloping away from the new growth within the node.

This allows moisture to drain away from the bud and not settle which could cause rot and lost potential growth, which is the framework for future pruning and “shaping”.

Pruning should incorporate the idea of ‘opening’ up the centre of the plant to allow light to the inner areas of branch system with potential growth from these areas.

New growth is usually generated from up to nine inches from the cut; to create a natural look to the shrub prune at various heights allowing new growth to ‘overlap’ lower growth and thus creating a fuller appearance to the plant.

As plants vary in their needs as to time for pruning, adhere to the time which allows Mother Nature to provide a more visual impact.

Examine each plant before starting the exercise of pruning, as removal of too much material can ruin the shape of the plant as well as its flowering potential; do not leave discarded horticultural waste lying around remove to a compost heap or burn; old debris can be a host for pest and diseases.

It is not good practice to prune back to the same cut each time you prune as this creates a ’crew cut’ effect of new growth on the top of the plant, with the lower foliage over time becoming bare through leaf drop.

A perfect example of this is when hedges such as oleander and hibiscus are pruned in this manner, when in time the privacy factor is lost when the lower foliage has leaf drop.

Heavy pruning is best carried out in March to avoid severe winter winds and again in October to “thin out” heavy growth before the onset of winter winds.

“Touch up” pruning to reduce long and or damaged growth can be carried out throughout the year.

Always use sharp bladed tools to create clean cuts and ensure the sloping cut is away from the nodal bud, ragged cuts can lead to die back and disease problems.

• Malcolm Griffiths is a trained horticulturalist and fellow of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture in Britain. He is also past president of the Bermuda Horticultural Society, the Bermuda Orchid Society and the Bermuda Botanical Society