Plant propagation is carried out in several ways, the most common being seed and cuttings; other methods include layering, air layering, grafting and budding; tip and stem culture are also in the wings.

The roots' basic function is to anchor the plant in the ground for accommodating the plant whilst acting as a conduit for the intake of water and nutrients from the soil or growing medium, water or host.

There are several types of root systems, viz, tap roots, fibrous roots, adventitious roots, water roots and tuberous roots which are storage organs.

Roots by their very nature are hydrotropic – they follow the route to water – and in the case of ground roots of large trees it is important they are given a large area and depth of soil to encourage a good root run to establish a solid anchoring system to anchor the top growth during hurricanes.

Areas of shallow soils – with an underlying rock – will force roots to travel horizontally along the rock surface, thus creating a flat plate like root system which can be easily toppled during high winds.

Shallow soil depth also impacts on water uptake during dry periods as soil dries out rapidly when shallow and, on a rock, sub-base with the result of roots literally drying out as the soil temperature heats up.

When purchasing and planting new material in a container, always check that the root ball is not ‘strangling itself’, i.e., it is not encircling itself around the root ball and thus the plant container.

If this is the case, it is best not to purchase. If the root ball is of a ‘mild’ nature, tease the roots loose before planting as this will encourage 365-degree growth, whereas on a pot bound plant the root will continue to simply grow around the ball and may not grow out in to the surrounding soil.

In such cases the root ball is not giving much support to the top growth in times of windy weather and increases the possibility of being toppled over.

When first planted, roots should be encouraged to search out water; in periods of dry weather, I suggest heavy watering two to three times per week which allows water to permeate into the lower strata of soil and hence the root systems will follow.

This is especially important in plants with large/soft foliage which will wilt quickly if roots are not immediately active in the uptake of water.

Do not leave hosepipes out in the sun as this will only create hot water being held in the pipe with the chance of scalding foliage – if used during the heat of the day.

With herbaceous, perennial and bulbous plants roots will be fragile so take extra care once planted in watching for wilting or signs of stress.

When transplanting, consider the type of plant to be moved, the weather conditions and time of year.

Trees should be moved by a professional company with experience in this exercise, as top pruning and root pruning will be part of the exercise.

When moving shrubs, again, contingent on size, care should be taken as to the preparation of the plant prior to removal.

I would be hesitant to relocate plants during the period May to October simply because of the heat at that time of year.

Plants with new growth and are thus ‘soft’, should be pruned back to older wood; the soil area around root system should be moist or watered prior to digging around root ball to avoid dry soil falling from the root ball.

Purchasing soil is expensive, so I like to check the source prior to purchasing. It is advisable to check the soil to visually see what you are buying, a good rule is to check the growth of weeds etc, on the soil heap.

A lack of weeds showing might mean little if any nutrient value present, therefore it is not a good medium for plant growth.

As the nature of roots is to chase moisture, they can in the exercise of chasing, become damaged by toxic substances, such as chemical cleaners being used in the cleaning of patios and being rinsed off into the soil.

This is also a problem on a construction site when toxic material is disposed of in the open ground, creating a problem down the road, when root growth is damaged.

Good preparation is the first step to success, as the root is the conduit that is the life supply of the plant it makes sense to give it a good start without stress.

The long-term benefits of this will be a healthy floriferous statement and aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

As the tree/shrub matures, the root system will also grow to accommodate the uptake of nutrients and water to sustain growth, it is therefore important to remember this when planting and create a large enough hole for roots grow unimpeded by adjacent footpaths, roads, and utility pipes.

Plant far away from footpaths and roads, to avoid the roots lifting or cracking surrounding hard landscaped or lawn areas.

• Malcolm Griffiths is a trained horticulturalist and fellow of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture in Britain. He is also past president of the Bermuda Horticultural Society, the Bermuda Orchid Society and the Bermuda Botanical Society