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Bordeaux’s golden vintage

On a roll: the Chateau La Lagune

In Bordeaux the weather patterns of a particular year can make a significant impact on the style and quality of a wine, and 2009 was one where all the right pieces fell into place.

In fact, the most influential wine critic, Robert Parker wrote: “2009 might be the finest in the 32 years that I have been tasting wines.”

I would like to prove my point by describing a few of the wines that we have in stock that have rated in the Gold Medal category of 90 points and above.

Chateau Bernadotte from the Haut Medoc at $39 is a fine example of a cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot blend that scores 90-92/100 with Parker. He comments: “This 2009 is the ultimate sleeper of the vintage” — which is his way of saying a hidden gem. He goes on: “Dense purple colour along with a big, sweet kiss of black cherries, black currants, charcoal and spice. Drink 2010 -2020.”

Chateau La Lagune made the third level of the 1855 classification and it certainly blossomed in 2009. Parker gave it 95/100 and said to drink it now and for the next three decades.

Wine Spectator awarded it 93-96/100 and said: “This property is really on a roll now delivering racy and structured reds.”

James Suckling also considered it highly with 96/100 and commented: “Fabulous aromas of liquorice, flowers and black currants follow through to a full body and wonderful silky and caressing tannins.” $96.60.

The commune of Moulis is lesser known than some but I love their wines. For instance, our 2009 Chateau Poujeaux twice scored 92/100 and twice scored 93/100 with well-known publications.

Wine Spectator even went as high as 96/100. Those who understand bordeaux have sought it out over the years; former French president George Pompidou often served it at the Elysée Palace. You will find this blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot displays the full and velvety attributes of a great vintage. $42.45.

Another from Moulis that costs only $29.25 is Chateau Brillette, that garnered 92/100 from both Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. The name is derived from the fact that the vineyard is comprised of shiny (brilliant) stones and these attract and store the heat during the day and help with the ripening of the fruit. The taste is of currants, minerals and sweet tobacco, even a hint of cedar.

The commune of St Julien is home to some of the historic leaders and for $41.25 we can give you Duluc de Branaire Ducru 2009 which is made from vines under 15 years old on the historic property of Branaire Ducru. It was classified in 1855. For a 2009 it is delicate and restrained but also silky and smooth.

Bordeaux, with about 9,000 producers, is quite a minefield for many of us to make sense of. There are, of course, the 61 properties that were classified as the very best in 1855 and many take the path of sticking to them, but it would be an adventure to just trust the judgment of your friendly wine merchant and let them (me?) guide you towards a few good choices. There are so many fine properties a little off the beaten path. I will wrap this up with the 2009 Chateau Pichon-Baron in Pauillac.

In 1855 it was not included in the four first growths, but today it is commonly referred to as a “super second” as it is officially a second growth but it is felt that 160 years later it is equal to what have now become the five first growths.

Let me again quote Parker on this one: “98/100 revealing incredible quality; the 2009 appears to be the greatest since 1990 and 1989. An amazing opaque blue/purple colour is followed by scents of spring flowers, graphite, smoky charcoal, incense, blackberries, blueberries and hints of coffee and chocolate. Pure, and flawlessly constructed, with extravagant layers of fruit and richness. This brilliant wine should peak between 2018 and 2045.” $205.45.

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm.