Every year on April 17 we celebrate the time, in the mid-1800s, when a French soil expert introduced the malbec grape to Argentina.

This day is called “dia mundial del malbec” or “malbec throughout the world”. My wife and I have fond memories of standing among the vines in the Uco Valley of Argentina and learning from a French winemaker who had set up shop there.

On this day he was deciding whether it was time to start the harvest. He showed us how to squish a grape between our thumb and finger and then examine the seeds to determine their ripeness by colour. We also tasted the sweet, delicious juice. He then showed us the difference between new clones from France and vines that had flourished in the high-altitude vineyards of Argentina for many years. The latter fruit was considerably larger and juicier, dare I say happier.

At one time malbec thrived in Bordeaux, but it has fallen out of favour there as it is easily subject to disease. It still thrives in Cahors and 2020 Georges Vigouroux Pigmentum Malbec is a selection of the best malbecs grown on the highest gravely and clay terraces of the Cahors Appellation. It has a beautiful red colour with a bouquet of summer flowers as well as powerful red and black fruit aromas, raspberry, blackcurrant, and blackberry. Round, attractive and inviting, it makes a fine aperitif.

Pigmentum malbec is the perfect wine to accompany everyday meals as well as more elaborate dishes such as roast pork, leg of lamb, duck, beef tagine, cannelloni, chicken curry and vol au vent. Although this is one of their most reasonably priced offerings it should not be ignored. It consistently rates between 87 and 90 points. $19.75 (Stock #7760).

Now we move on to the high, desert-like, direct sunlight vineyards of Argentina with their wide diurnal temperature range that is so perfect for our featured grape.

I lead off with the Bermuda connections and 2020 Gubinelli Malbec that is a young, rich, fruity wine which can be enjoyed by itself, but also pairs well with so many foods. Owned and operated by Bermuda resident Laurence Noble, the Gubinelli vineyard is located on the outskirts of Vista Flores in the Valle De Uco, one of Mendoza's premier wine regions. The vineyard is at 950 metres above sea level and has a microclimate that allows them to grow world class grapes, which are sought after by some of the leading wineries in the region, and which are also the only grapes they use in their wines. $22.25 (Stock #8722).

Quite a few years ago, after returning home from a trip to Argentina, I was invited to have lunch with Laurence as well as William Fischer, as they had both become involved in wine production and hoped that Burrows Lightbourn would import a selection of what they had to offer. We have a few from Bill and today will feature 2020 Alpasion Malbec from the Uco Valley that shows the dark plums and blackberries that one would expect. As no oak is employed, this wine is a little less intense than others, but it offers us the chance to experience the beautiful purity of fruit that Argentine malbec gives to us. It is quite unique. $24.25 (Stock #8942).

Our 2019 El Enemigo Malbec is so new for us that I have not even seen a bottle, but after reading the following it is obvious why we now stock it.

“Set up by historian Adrianna Catena (daughter of Argentine wine promoter Nicolás Catena Zapata) and the prestigious winemaker Alejandor Vigil (chief winemaker of Catena Zapata).

“What better way to delve into the origins than by creating El Enemigo Malbec, a red wine made mainly with Argentina’s star variety and the favourite grape of this enterprising winemaker. A malbec accompanied by a small amount of petit verdot and cabernet franc, the three varieties are grown in vineyards located in Gualtallary (Tupungato) at an altitude of approximately 1,470 metres above sea level. Respectful agriculture is practised, and yields are limited. Fermentation takes place spontaneously with native yeasts and no temperature control.” Critic James Suckling rates it 93/100. $32.50 (Stock #7128).

Pay $32 for a bottle of 2020 Mendel Malbec and experience an intense dark red/purple colour. The aromas of sweet French oak and espresso get more complex with every swirl of the glass, unveiling black raspberry, blueberry and rose petal aromas. The wine is full-bodied, dense, deep and chewy with flavours of black raspberry, plum, cola, roasted coffee and caramel notes. This is another 93 pointer from Suckling. (Stock #8922).

Each year Drinks International publishes their list of our world’s top 50 most admired wine brands – a daunting task considering that there may be as many overall as 200,000. Burrows Lightbourn did extremely well – more on that another time – but for now I can say that Catena Zapata was second overall. It is also rated as Number 1 in South America (over 15,000 vineyards in Argentina, 12,000 in Chile, 1,100 in Brazil and so on).

An oft-opened treat in our home is 2019 Catena Malbec that can be yours for $23.80. It is a special wine crafted from high altitude estate vineyards in Mendoza, Argentina. The wine is the result of years of exploration and study of the unique terroirs that make up the region. Fourth generation vintner Laura Catena and chief winemaker Alejandro Vigil have combined their expertise to create a wine of unique character and natural balance. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gives it 92 points and says, “The excellent and floral 2019 Catena Malbec shows the typicity of the grape, violets and red berries, and the freshness of the year. It has the textbook aromas and a soft and velvety mouthfeel, with very fine grainy tannins.” (Stock #7116).

If you are thinking that you may want to celebrate with perfection, wait no longer. The epic tale of the noble malbec grape is like no other, and the label for 2019 Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino pays tribute to the variety’s history in France and its rise in Argentina.

Four female figures embody different landmarks in the history of the grape. Eleanor of Aquitaine represents the birth of malbec. She is a strong, Old World presence, lingering at the bridge in Cahors, where malbec came into its own.

Next, the Immigrant symbolises the movement to the New World and the unknown explorers and adventurers who connected Europe with the Americas. Phylloxera personifies the death of malbec in the Old World, which enabled its rebirth in the new. Finally, there is Bodega Catena Zapata, represented by Adrianna Catena, who depicts birth, earth, and motherhood, sharing the riches of the New World. Today, the Catena family’s fourth generation leads the high-altitude renaissance in Argentina. We are returning malbec to the sky … where it belongs. James Suckling awards this stellar achievement 99/100. $98 (Stock #8922).

This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available at www.wineonline.bm