Wines for a long overdue family reunion
Our oldest son, who like his mother loves to experiment in the kitchen, is here for the first time in over three years – far too long! We knew that special wines should be on hand for special meals.
We started out with a fine Mexican feast with our neighbours, and we arrived at their home with our contribution of food and two bottles of 2018 Michael David Petite Petit – Petite Sirah from Lodi, a blend of 85 per cent petite sirah and 15 per cent petit verdot.
Their winemaker describes it as “a large, weighty, knock-your-socks-off type of wine”.
“Showcasing aromas of dark fruit, raspberry and fig, this wine is layered with rich flavours of black cherry, cola and light oak on the palate. Dark, full bodied and deeply satisfying.”
The Wine Enthusiast awarded it 93/100 and wrote, “This powerful wine is jam-packed with black fruits, black pepper, dark chocolate and firm tannins. It will hold them tightly until further ageing sees the wine blossom with additional complexity and suppleness. Editors’ Choice.” $29 (Stock #8043). This was lovely with the richly flavoured food and there was no need to go home and fetch the bottle of 2019 Bogle Petite Sirah that I had on standby. This is a dark purple wine that stains the glass and exhibits succulent blueberries and blackberries along with toasty vanilla and cocoa. It sells for $24.30 and the Wine Enthusiast scored it 90 points. (Stock #8043).
On another evening we enjoyed Mexican chicken tortilla soup along with a bottle of 2020 DeLoach Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir from a winery that specialises in pinot noir from California. The fresh strawberry and raspberry, along with a touch of white pepper, were just right with this dish. I often mention this pinot noir as we usually have it on hand in our home. The family that owns DeLoach has a history going back some 300 years in the Burgundy region of France and working with this grape comes very naturally. The price of $21.95 is quite exceptional as well. (Stock #6040).
When I asked my wife to describe the Japanese Ramen soup that we enjoyed on another evening she said that it was “a mash-up of my mind”. Well so much for that, but of course it was delicious with a bottle of 2020 Michel Chapoutier Domaine des Granges de Mirabel Viognier, an organic wine from Coteaux de l’Ardèche in France. Aromas of apricots, pears and orange marmalade danced beautifully with this soup. The viognier grape is so well suited for Asian dishes, and I like to enjoy it on its own as well. $24.55 (Stock #9454).
We also decided to give a selection of Thai takeout dishes a try and opened an estate bottled German riesling. As I was about to write about it, I noticed that it is now out of stock, so may I suggest that this type of food would be enhanced by 2021 Dr Loosen Dr L Riesling. This classic example balances the traditional sweetness with mineral acidity that so suits spicy cuisine. $20.75 (Stock #8577).
In anticipation of meals to come I have just bought a bottle that I assume (hate to do that) will be perfect with steaks on the outdoor grill. This quite new arrival is 2018 Contino Reserva Rioja from Spain. I have yet to try it, but I submit two reviews that certainly pique my interest. James Suckling rates it 95 points and comments, “Black cherries with cedar and dried flowers, as well as dusty earth. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm tannins that are long and polished. Lots of structure. Very typical and focused. Drinkable now, but better in 2024.”
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate scores it 94/100 and has this to say: “I tasted two vintages of the estate red that represent the blend and the character of the place. The 2018 reserva comes from a cooler year and is a blend of 86 per cent tempranillo, 6 per cent mazuelo, 6 per cent graciano and 2 per cent garnacha with 14.12 per cent alcohol and a pH of 3.48. The grapes ripened thoroughly, and the wine is tasty but has a vibrant palate with freshness and depth. It has a classical nose and is complex and spicy with an earthy touch, a little developed and with fine-grained tannins. Very tasty. It spent 18 months in oak barrels, 90 per cent of them French and 10 per cent American; they are reducing the amount of American oak in this wine.” $42 (Stock #8834).
We have a few whites on standby as well, such as 2019 Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Kies, Austria’s best known white wine. Here we experience lime, grapefruit and fresh apple, along with a silky palate and nutty hints of iodine and stone. $24.40 (Stock #7260).
Also waiting for the right moment is a bottle of 2021 Jermann Pinot Bianco from the Friuli district in north-eastern Italy. I met Silvio, here in Bermuda, in the 1980s and he has been a true revolutionary in winemaking and produces some of the greatest whites from his country. This one is refined, pleasant and dry with hints of peach and pear, attractive mineral notes, and expressive refreshing acidity on the palate. The wine has been produced since 1974 from pinot bianco, which is considered a true rarity in Friuli. Special terroir of Friuli, and magic Silvio, allow all sorts of nuances of pinot bianco to create an elegant, well-balanced wine. It is made with attention to detail. The hard work in the vineyard, a small crop and careful timing of the harvest allow the fruit to reach their full potential. $37.90 (Stock #9018).
As I write, we have eight days before our son returns to his job of teaching at university in Canada; we will certainly not leave such a gap in getting together again! Please try some of these somewhat off the beaten path wines as I feel that you will thoroughly enjoy them.
This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available at www.wineonline.bm
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