A glass of port on a chilly January evening is so appropriate and to get the most enjoyment let me make a few comments. Firstly, do not use those tiny “eye dropper” glasses as white wine glasses are just fine and they help the port express itself far better.

If port is too warm it can taste strong and alcoholic and, if too cold, the lovely aromatics are very limited. Ruby and vintage are best at 61F to 65F and tawny a little cooler at 57F to 60F. The finest vintage ports should be consumed within three days once opened, virtually all others will last at least a month and possibly two.

Many of the historic firms have English names and the reason is as follows. During a time when England was at war with the French it was decided to try wines from Portugal. These wines did not travel well and a decision was made to fortify them with added alcohol distilled from wine. Some fine-tuning took place and one of our world’s greatest wines was born. English families caught on and founded port-producing firms in Portugal, as Taylor’s did in 1692.

As we work our way up to a rare vintage port, that only accounts for about 2 per cent of all port production, we lead off with Taylor’s Fine Ruby that is a blend of full-bodied wines aged for around two years in large oak vats in Taylor’s cellars, or ‘lodges’.

As they age, they gain smoothness and elegance while retaining their fruitiness, intensity, and youthful ruby colour. It pairs well with berry fruit and dark chocolate flavours and, like all red Ports, makes an excellent after-dinner drink. The stylish fruity nose, full of intense concentrated blackcurrant and cherry aromas is full-bodied and firm and the palate is crammed with luscious black fruit flavours. $24.30. Stock #3182.

In 1820 the brothers William and John Graham set up their firm and today I think it fair to say that they, and the Taylor family, are the leading producers. Graham’s Fine Tawny Port gets its lighter tawny colour by spending time maturing in seasoned oak casks and this gives it a fine balance of fruitiness and nuttiness with hints of dried fruits. It is happiest when served slightly chilled and their web site tells us that it will keep well for up to two months once opened. $26.90. Stock #3030.

Tawnies that specify the time spent in barrel have become all the rage and Graham’s 10-year-Old Tawny is a tribute to craftsmanship and the passion for excellence and unmatched precision at the heart of every Graham’s handmade Aged Tawny Port. After a decade of continuous care, Graham's "10 Years Old" is a wonderful expression of the tawny style for those who appreciate quality and precision in every detail. Grapes are 100 per cent hand-picked and fermentation takes place with natural (wild) yeasts. Decanter magazine awards it 92/100. $48.75. Stock #3034.

Taylor’s 20-Year-Old Tawny placed on the highly respected Wine Spectator’s 2023 list of the 100 best wines in the world, with the following comments: “Lovely, with a mix of persimmon, white peach, hazelnut, green tea and sung alder notes all moving together in streamlined harmony. The long, elegant finish has nice latent energy.” This is a beautiful wine that gains intensity, as about 3 per cent a year evaporates out of the barrel (the angel’s share). $79.05. Stock #3179.

A very popular package is Graham’s Six Grapes, that is bottled ready to drink after about five years of cask ageing. When opened, it should stay fresh for up to two months if stored in a cool, dark place or the refrigerator. Six Grapes pairs particularly well with dark chocolate but is also fantastic on its own as a luscious dessert in a glass. The critic Wilfred Wong writes: “Graham's Six Grapes has always been one of my favourites among the reserve Portos. Deep, rich, and satiny, this one drinks smooth and long.” $34.85. Stock #3033.

Vintage Port is kept in wood for only 20 months or so before being transferred to the bottle where it will continue to age for a very long time. Late Bottled Vintage (“invented” by Taylor’s), as the name suggests, is bottled later, remaining in wood between four and six years. During this relatively long period of wood ageing, an LBV matures and settles down – it is ready to drink when bottled, does not need to be decanted and can be served by the glass for several weeks after the cork is drawn. 2018 Taylor’s LBV Port is priced at $32.30. Stock #3174.

I once read, but I cannot remember where, that “no one should leave this Earth without first tasting a great vintage port”. During our youngest son’s Christmas visit home, we shared a 1977 Graham’s, which sadly was our last one, and one of the few wines we have left from the year that his mother and I met. This port had aged to perfection.

The Wine Advocate wrote of the 2003 Graham’s Vintage Port: “Violets, roses, spices, and candied dark fruits emanate from the glass of the murky black/purple coloured 2003 Graham’s Vintage Port. After four days of air, this wine’s aromatics sweetened further, displaying jammy blackberry and blueberry scents. Bold, full-bodied, and expansive, the Graham benefited the most from extensive contact with air of all the 2003s tasted for this report. This opulently jammy wine assaults the palate with powerful yet soft layers of oily, candied red fruits as well as notes of tar and hints of mocha. A highly concentrated effort, it is creamy textured, suave, and reveals an admirably long finish filled with additional layers of dark fruits intermingled with spices”. $109.00. Stock #3019.

Dare I borrow the old sailor’s expression “any port in a storm”.

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. The Burrows Lightbourn retail store is located Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are located in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm