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History in a bottle

To a long life: Michael Robinson writes that wine destined for a long life needs to be kept cool, even temperature, with the absence of light and vibration (Photograph submitted)

There are quite important changes going on at Burrows Lightbourn and Discovery Wines & Spirits. You may have noticed that their store next to the Supermart on Front Street is no longer open and their store on Harbour Road in Paget is surrounded by scaffolding as the outside is undergoing major renovations – this will shortly shift to the interior.

Discovery Wines & Spirits on the corner of Reid and Queen Streets has been closed for a soon-to-be-revealed new look.

I thought that for today I would discuss the collecting and care of wines destined to age. The picture of three bottles from our little cellar is hopefully clear enough for you to read the vintage dates.

They have sat safely at 59F in our wine storage “cellar” for so very long. Wine destined for a long life needs to be in a cool, even temperature with the absence of light and vibrations.

The 1979 Dry Creek Vineyards Zinfandel is quite possibly the first Californian wine that I became such a fan of that my new wife would often tell me that I needed to bring something else home, as there were so many wines to study, taste and understand.

The founder, David Stare, was the first to open a new winery in this area since the ending of prohibition – that was in 1972.

By 1985, as you can see from his Meritage red blend, he had begun to feature his love of sailing, as his labels do on all their wines today.

In the Eighties David sailed here on his own boat, and I remember well the times my wife and I entertained him on our French sailboat “Premier Cru” that was built in the Loire Valley.

Today, many decades later this winery still gives us the essence of Californian enjoyment. Dry Creek, now headed up by David’s daughter Kim, has this to say about their 2021 Dry Creek Fumé Blanc.

“Since 1972, we have produced Fumé Blanc — a wine at the heart and soul of our family winery. Modelled after the classic wines from the Loire Valley in France, our stainless steel fermented Fumé Blanc is crisp, balanced and immediately drinkable. Our 50th Anniversary Edition of Fumé Blanc emanates the classic Dry Creek Vineyard ‘house’ style of Sauvignon Blanc.

“Aromatics of lime, lemon, white peach and grapefruit leap forward from the glass with nuances of honeydew, lemon grass and white tea.

“On the palate, the wine is intense and bright with tangerine, passion fruit and cucumber. Underlying minerality and hints of hibiscus, lemon verbena and jalapeño contribute to this wine’s refreshing, crisp finish.”

When Californians call their Sauvignon Blanc “Fumé Blanc” it often denotes a more intense version. As the French also have their Pouilly Fumé from Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, it is my understanding that this is due to a smoky character sometimes found in this grape – and so Fumé. $25.50. Stock #6506.

I must also mention 2019 Dry Creek “Old Vines” Zinfandel that presents alluring aromatics of blackberry, boysenberry, and fresh raspberry with notes of cocoa powder, cardamom, toasty cedar, and nutmeg.

On the palate, brambly layers of black cherry, blackberry and boysenberry come forward with nuances of coriander, marzipan and espresso.

The wine is complex, with bright acidity complimented by a long, lingering finish and the tannins are structured, but soft, and lend a round, rich mouthfeel.

It is a blend of 78 per cent Zinfandel, 19 per cent Petite Sirah and 3 per cent Carignane. Will it do what 1979 did and still be enjoyable in 2069? It is up to someone younger than me to find out. $42.00. Stock #6539.

2018 Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is also in stock, and I wonder how our 1981 is holding up at home?

The other bottle in the picture is 1988 Cignale from our dear and old friend (three months younger than me) Neil Empson.

Although we personally have older ones, 1988 is very special for us as it joins a small collection from this year when our youngest son was born.

1986 wines are also with us to celebrate the same occasion with his older brother. If you can, you should put a few good bottles aside to later celebrate such special occasions. We have a few 1977’s for the year we met, and so on.

I recently wrote about the arrival of 2018 Cignale and gave Robert Parker’s 94/100 review that reads, “a blend of 90 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 per cent Merlot, the Castello di Querceto 2018 Cignale (’wild boar’ in Italian) offers beautiful depth and balance.

“This is a boldly layered Tuscan red that ages in French oak for 18 months. Sweet baking spice, dark chocolate and blackberry confit emerge from the core of this nicely concentrated red.”

Neil and his wife Maria have been here numerous times and like David Stare of Dry Creek they are keen sailors.

I have fond memories of them, along with their daughter, Tara, enjoying outings on our waters on Premier Cru.

The Empsons supply a wide range of wines to Burrows Lightbourn/Discovery and one of the most successful that is always in demand is the Super Tuscan called Arillo in Terrabianca 2019 Campaccio that we have good stocks of.

The Wine Advocate gave it 93 points saying, “a blend of 70 per cent Sangiovese, 20 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 per cent Merlot, the Arillo in Terrabianca 2019 Campaccio shows elegant restraint with hints of cinnamon and sweet oak that frame a core of dark fruit.

“If you remember the old Campaccio, you will recognise the wine's black label and the fonts used in the design.

“Stylistically speaking, however, this wine has evolved over the years to show a much more tapered and graceful approach today. Pretty mineral notes create a final signature.” $38.75. Stock #9046.

There is also a 2019 Arillo in Terrabianca “Campaccio Collezione” Reserva. It ups the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to 30% each and it sells for $53.70. Stock #9048.

I was recently eyeing up a bottle of 1997 and wondering whether to open. I did not as I am told that it ages long and well.

So why not start a little collecting for enjoyment on special dates and occasions.

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. The Burrows Lightbourn retail store is located Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm

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Published March 01, 2024 at 7:59 am (Updated March 01, 2024 at 7:20 am)

History in a bottle

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