The Waterlot is, or was, a Bermuda institution, a steakhouse of old-school charm, with an atmosphere steeped in history. What a blow it was, then, when it closed during the pandemic.

So, it was with a sense of relief that islanders received the news that the restaurant was to reopen. However, there was still some trepidation. What would it be like now? Thankfully, walking in, it still feels like the Waterlot of old: warm lighting, polished wood, the hum of a room filled with people enjoying themselves. It has had a facelift, true, but its essence remains intact.

With a serving team featuring familiar faces from the past, along with other Southampton Princess mainstays, the service is professional and friendly. Barry, the longstanding former maître d’, deserves special mention for his hospitality — he has the knack of making each table feel as though they are the VIPs of the night.

The staff read cues well, striking a balance between engaging conversation and knowing when to step back.

Cocktails set the tone for the evening. The Espresso Martini was smooth and well-balanced and a Dirty Vodka Martini came with enough olives to be an hors d’oeuvre in its own right. The wine list offered a good selection by the glass — a detail that feels like an afterthought in many places, but was given proper attention here.

Bread rolls arrived warm — but be warned that the old croissant-like rolls are gone. A tomato-topped roll had a pleasant sweetness, while the Parmesan roll was deeply savoury. The trio of butters provided alongside were the highlight: truffle Parmesan being the standout.

Our meal began with a theatrical flourish: the Hot Smoked Salmon — an excellent recommendation from our friendly server — was presented under a bell jar, smoke spilling out as the glass lid was lifted. The fish was delicately smoked, with crème fraîche providing a welcome tang. The horseradish had real bite — perhaps too much — but peppercorns helped round everything out.

The Grilled Broccoli Steak was perfectly cooked, retaining just enough crunch, with garlic and spices adding gentle complexity.

The soups are more than just an aside: French Onion Soup was rich, silky and generously cheesy, with comfort in every spoonful. A vegan Mushroom Soup surprised with its creaminess and depth of flavour.

The Avocado Crab Roulade was beautifully presented and a coolly refreshing treat, while the Brioche Rockfish offered a delicious — if rather meanly portioned — deconstructed fish sandwich.

Steak is obviously the main attraction. If it wasn’t clear enough from the menu, the large showcases of dry ageing beef will dispel any sceptics — and, fair warning, gross out non-meat eaters.

The Surf & Turf was a mixed bag. The fillet mignon was outstanding: perfectly cooked and seasoned, topped with a slice of glossy, unctuous foie gras that will have you reconsidering your moral opposition. The lobster, alas, arrived overcooked. To their credit, staff sorted it at once, bringing out a second serving that was sweet, fragrant and cooked just right — although it would have been nice to have had Bermuda lobster on the menu rather than imported. A wedge of burnt lemon accompanied it, an interesting touch, although the bitterness slightly overshadowed the other flavours.

Chef Hamish’s Tasting Trio of steaks was an excellent way to experience the range of cuts on offer. Each came with its own sauce, a helpful feature for those struck by indecision. However, it was served without any guidance as to what was what.

For non-carnivores: the Black Cod was impossibly delicate, the kind of texture that makes you rethink what cod is capable of. And while the edamame garnish didn’t feel strictly necessary, it was at least well prepared.

The sides were always one of the stars of the old Waterlot — and they continue to deliver. The Truffle Mac ‘n’ Cheese was comforting, with just enough truffle to justify the name, while the fluffy-in-the-middle Steakhouse Fries were inhaled. Roasted Carrots with Basil and Pistachio Butter — the sweetness of the veg balanced by a clean crunch felt almost healthy ... so long as you didn’t look at the bottom of the dish. The Creamed Spinach was unapologetically rich: practically a stick of butter in its own right. Unable to polish it off, we enjoyed it as a wonderful add-in to the next morning’s scrambled eggs.

Creative desserts leant towards the boozy. The Red Wine Pear Tarte Tatin was elegantly presented, the pear delicate and infused with the depth of the wine. The Sticky Toffee Pudding walked a fine line between Christmas pudding and classic toffee. The rhubarb gelato accompanying it was the only bum note: more sugary style than substance.

Before the bill comes: a clarification. Unusually for this column, this review is based on two separate visits — we went once right after opening and wanted to try again to see whether a few of the initial kinks had been worked out. Throughout both meals, a few details felt overlooked. Missing spoons for dessert, no cocktail menu provided when we arrived; starters arriving before drinks. Worst of all, a dish containing beef broth was mistakenly served to the vegetarian in the party —- a slip that was rectified quickly but should never have happened at this level of dining.

Waterlot is an extremely expensive dining experience: between both visits we averaged between $200 and $250, which is staggering ... even for Bermuda. This included three courses (each time) along with sides and one glass of wine or a cocktail. While the food and service were excellent, they did not justify the price, particularly while there are other equally (or better) and cheaper options out there.

Ultimately, the Waterlot still feels like the Waterlot. It remains a place to come for a special celebration. But given the cost — and the ongoing glitches — it won’t be a regular fixture for most people. At least for a while.