November embraces the onset of the cooler months, when growth slows down, flowering lessens, and maintenance changes its format, from the usual landscape company visit of twice per month to once per month. As the summer weeds fade into autumn the winter weeds start to flourish, and during periods of warm weather spurts of new growth can be seen.

It is a good opportunity to stop and take stock of the garden in general, be it the design concept, the mix of plants and the state of the lawn. Site location is often the defining factor in how well specific plants grow in their present spot; shade, wind and salt spray being major influences in success or failure.

Reviewing the state of each plant will answer the question as to its viability in its present spot; if this is questionable then the question of relocation within the garden should be considered and a decision on what if anything should then be replaced or relocated to accommodate the change. If there is uncertainty of a new spot, consider lifting and potting the plant to overwinter until a decision has been made. In such cases, it is important to lift as much root ball with soil attached and placed in a suitable size container that does not cramp the root system. Plant firmly in good soil or compost and water in; before actually lifting any young new growth should be pruned back to firm wood to assist in the settling of the plant in its new environment. This exercise should also encompass relocating plants which are too close to its neighbour and affecting one of either plant's growth potential.

When assessing the pros and cons of a plant as to relocating within the garden, the same procedure as for the containerising is the key, by digging a large enough hole to accommodate the root ball with another twelve inches of space to allow for uninterrupted root growth and quicker establishment. Always water in after relocating and always move when weather conditions are appropriate, that is little or no wind and partial cloudy skies.

Lawns can often take a hammering during the summer months with long dry spells of hot weather and above normal foot traffic and outdoor activities. Summer weeds will be fighting for survival whilst winter weeds will be attempting to take a hold, and the sward of lawn will suffer if they are not controlled. If weed activity is widespread then a granular herbicide might be the better choice, whereas, if weeds are more isolated then a liquid application would be better for control. As lawn grasses can be sensitive to certain chemicals, determine weed and grass type to avoid spray damage. If areas of lawn are showing heavy wear and tear, assess the reason and consider remediation such as creating a brick or paved area for a BBQ area or installing a path in worn areas. Parking and driveways should be of such a design to accommodate turning areas for vehicles and at least a couple of parking bays.

Hard landscaping is also a major player in the creation of an attractive functional landscape, with the elements of parking, driveway, and footpaths being integral to the creation of low maintenance and visual impact. Plan now to correct any problems in these areas; also review the condition of any trellises, walls especially if dry stack types, fencing, patios, animal runs and compost areas. The ‘winter’ months are a good time to carry out repair work on checking the rigidity of trellis work and resetting dry stack walling; fences can be treated for rot and painted as necessary to preserve the woodwork, whilst patios can be checked for an uneven surface and levelled accordingly.

Plan now with a schedule to start in the new year, with the hard landscape changes, followed by the soft landscape projects starting in the spring.

• Malcolm D. Griffiths is a trained horticulturalist and fellow of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture in Britain. He is also past president of the Bermuda Horticultural Society, the Bermuda Orchid Society and the Bermuda Botanical Society