Although generally a cooler month, January can still be visited by pest and diseases and unwelcome weeds, often the result of leftover activity from the summer months. Pests and diseases can be the after-effects of being carried by host plants in or from surrounding garden plants. Weeds can be the “off-spring” of self-seeded or pieces of weed growth in the garden or imported via wind, birds and other creatures. Cleanliness throughout the year is therefore a major factor in good husbandry and a more visually attractive garden.

Pests are found in many shapes and sizes, with damage being the result of leaf damage such as chewing or cutting into the foliage, rasping the leaf surface, burrowing under the epidermis of the leaf to chewing through young soft stem tissue, aphis — black or greenfly — being a major problem on new growth. Damage can be from the larvae stage, eg, caterpillar, to the adult stage. Insect eggs can be found on the underside of plant foliage and in horticultural debris on the ground, hence the importance of checking plants regularly, especially during the growing season. Removal of fallen debris on a regular basis is important in keeping at bay pest problems; if infestations are found, it is advisable to burn the affected material to avoid further spread by “over wintering” on the host plant and furthering the problem. Pest and disease problems can often be caused by too dense planting, which acts as an incubator; allowing spaces between plantings allows air flow and ease of application of spraying and foliage coverage.

When using chemical control, using the correct chemical for the specific problem will achieve a quicker result; read the instruction leaflet regarding application rates and mixing ratios and spray on a windless day and during overcast weather. Do not spray if the plant is under stress especially if soil is not damp around root ball. A handheld or knapsack sprayer is best for ease of application and coverage.

A weed is simply a plant growing in the wrong location, be it a dandelion or a self-seeded oleander. Weeds can be a host to pests and diseases. They utilise available water in the soil as well as take nutrients from the soil, both of which are important requirements for “garden” plants.

Ephemerals can be a major problem as they can reproduce several times throughout the year. Weed control is best carried out with a Dutch hoe as it is a push motion through the under surface of the soil removing young germinating seedlings; when removing by hand, ensure all part of the plant are removed including the total root to avoid any regrowth. Perennial weeds need particular attention in ensuring all parts of the plant are removed, especially those that have started to produce seed, which can be spread by wind, water, birds and on animal's coats.

I would recommend the approach of “if you weed when there are no weeds present and you will not have weeds”, breaking the soil surface when hoeing, also softens the soil surface for rain to drain and not have run-off as is the case with compacted soil.

Weeding also includes removal of weed growth on hard surfaces and waste land, especially to control the spread of seed from established weeds. On hard surfaces and waste land, a knapsack can be used to apply a herbicide as a spot treatment; however, do not spray on a windy day as spray drift can have an adverse effect on “garden” plants.

Remembering the adage, “what you create you have to maintain”, the need for pest and disease control in tandem with weed control will be a great help in creating a visual weed and pest-free garden. Chemicals when used correctly can be beneficial; when not they can create problems. With this in mind, always remember, if all else fails, read the instructions!

• Malcolm D. Griffiths is a trained horticulturalist and fellow of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture in Britain. He is also past president of the Bermuda Horticultural Society, the Bermuda Orchid Society and the Bermuda Botanical Society