The party’s over and it’s time to call it a day … now you must wake up! All dreams must end, the garden needs your attention before spring becomes a reality.It’s time to take stock of what happened last year and what changes would be of benefit this year.Take a walkabout and note what repairs are needed to any hard landscaped areas, what plants did not do well last year or are past their expiry date. Does the lawn need any major renovations to restore it to being a lawn? These are basic ongoing elements of any garden calendar, other issues could well include new works to the garden be they hard or soft landscapes.As growth is relatively inactive at this time of year, now is a good time to cull out poor plants or plants not doing well or simply because for whatever reason they are in the wrong location. Such reasons include being too vigorous for the area and needing regular pruning to protect neighbouring plants; being too close to buildings, boundaries or pathways. Plants that are in decline should also be removed as it is unlikely they will have a resurgence of growth.Trees or very large shrubs located within 20ft of a building could be a potential problem from root zone activity especially if surface growing roots are visible, an indication that there is a rock sub strata and little soil depth. Starting under the drip tip the area immediately below the outreaches of the canopy dig a small trench to check for root activity “heading” toward the building. Do this in several areas and follow the root; alternatively dig a trench along the side of the building to check for activity. If roots are present and contingent on number and size, there is a potential problem.Many plants are installed far too close to foot-paths or roads with the result they constantly need cutting back to allow free access. Knowledge of the plant will determine its eventual size and therefore the best location with regard to proximity of paths and roads. If a plant is constantly cut back for whatever reason, at some point one needs to ask the question, ‘is it the right plant for the location?’Large (mature) trees that cannot be visually assessed from the ground should be checked by a professional tree surgeon that has the experience to climb into the tree and check for rot and general problems that could well be detrimental to the health of the tree down the road. Rot is often found developing in the crotch of trees and slowly works its way into the trunk or branch system weakening the tissue as it continues its process of decay. Removal of the rot to clean tissue and removal of growth which is in poor condition or where weight needs to be reduced to lessen the problem of ‘ripping’ will be identified and treated correctly by the tree surgeon.Lawn areas showing wear and tear on a consistent basis should be analysed as to the reason, it may be the wrong type of grass for the area, poor fertilisation programme or simply that surrounding trees are now casting much more shade than in previous years with the resulting decline of a good sward.The former two problems can be dealt with come spring when growth starts to become active on a regular basis; in the case of the latter when the problem is indeed heavy shade, consider removing the affected area of grass and replacing it with a hard surface path; this could be brick or various types of paving. If a regularly used area make the path wide enough to allow two persons to walk side by side and of course long enough to reduce future problems, a five-foot width should be adequate. Repair paths showing subsidence or have broken bricks or stone make level accordingly so as not to be hazardous when foot traffic becomes active or deteriorate further as time goes by.Consider the function of the hedges around the property and the rationale for the height of same; it may be that some hedges should be allowed to grow higher for more privacy or perhaps the hedge is not adequate for the function required and a fence may be a better alternative.Fences be they wood or ‘composite material’ should be checked for sturdiness and posts reinforced and rails replaced as necessary. Vines growing on trellises should be inspected and pruned back if needed to check the integrity of the trellis.Parking areas when seen on a plan are often not as workable when laid out on the ground with turning or reversing areas being the major problem. If this is the case carry out several test runs for each activity marking the turning circle or tyre movement on the hard area to ascertain where changes if any need to be made. If asphalt is the medium used for the driveway, create concrete or brick areas for cycle parking as they are far more durable in the long term and do not suffer the same ‘wear’ problem as asphalt.January is a good time to check tools and equipment, service small engines and generally check what you have is in good working order. Mower blades should be sharpened on a regular basis otherwise the lawn will suffer with irregular cutting patterns and engines serviced. Secateurs, loppers and all tools with an ‘edge’ should be sharpened and oiled. Well maintained equipment will last longer and be more accommodating in its output than poorly or not maintained equipment.I always tell clients, what you create you have to maintain…………………..it’s your call, but always remember weeds grow all year, they don’t take holidays or have week-end off!