November usually finishes off any good growth and flowering potential as temperatures drop, cooler weather dominates and the occasional north wind doth blow. It has been an unusual year weatherwise, a colder than normal winter leading into a prolonged drought and very hot summer, Hurricane Igor with high temperatures into late October, and we are still six inches below normal for rainfall.

As a result, the garden has taken a hammering in more ways than one, stress from drought being the main problem. But the battering from Hurricane Igor badly "frazzled" foliage and the salt laden winds, and drought conditions only exacerbated the problem. In coastal areas, some soils may have experienced heavier than usual concentrations of salt which owing to lack of rainfall are still present with resulting problems to plants having sensitive root systems to salt tolerance.

Most plants should have shed their damaged foliage by now and new growth should have been generated especially if plants were pruned back, and given irrigation and fertiliser to encourage growth. Location is obviously a big factor regarding damage from wind and salt with such plants still in the recovery mode. It is advisable to recognise these factors when considering plant selection, plants that show sensitive tendencies to exposed areas should be avoided and used in more protected areas, whereas "hardy" plants are best for such locations.

At the time of writing flowering was still active on many plants having recovered from the damage inflicted by Hurricane Igor; these include Jatropha hastata – Peregrine, crimson red flowers; Allamanda cathartica hendersonii – climbing yellow Allamanda; Plumbago auriculata – blue and white flowering; Thevetia peruviana – Lucky Nut, orange bell shaped flowers; Jasminum magnificum – Star jasmine and of course the perpetual favourites of Pentas and Lantana with their wide range of colours highlighting the front of any garden.

As temperatures start to drop we should see the onset of "cool season" weeds even though "summer weeds" are still with us, this is the case for both flower beds and lawn areas, the former being controlled by hoeing the latter by weed control and height of cut. I still believe strongly in hoeing flower beds on a regular basis to break the soil surface and thus "kill off' any germinating growth. Lawns however are more difficult to tackle with the three lawn grasses having their own idiosyncrasies regarding chemical treatments. Zoysia and Bermuda lawns usually have the same compatibility level regarding similar chemical use whilst St. Augustine lawns require different applications and will react to unsuitable chemical controls. Discuss requirements with your fertiliser supplier as to the needs of your lawn. Fertiliser applications will also change at this time of year when the NPK ratio (nitrogen, phosphates and potash numbers) should be a different ratio than used in the spring or summer applications; slow release fertiliser with less nitrogen is advised.

Annuals – the flowers for the winter months – are readily available with a wide range of varieties, colours and habit to choose from. Planting en masse creates a palette of colour and makes a bold statement either as a solid mass of colour or as with petunias mixed colours. Annuals also make a good showing in pots and hanging baskets especially when used in and around the patio or verandah. I prefer to plant when seedlings are of a more mature size than when first planted from cell packs, I believe they take hold quicker; I also like to pinch growing tip to encourage side growths if seedling is "leggy" and not "breaking" on its own. When planting each variety of seedling follow the label instructions as to their plant distances, some require nine inches apart whereas others can be planted at 12 to 15 inches; this will make a difference at flowering time with better displays – all else being equal – of carpets of flower.

Bulbs are not as widely used as they could be to add interest during the cooler months, presently in stock at the local nurseries are Narcissus including Paper Whites, Anemones, Iris, Freesias, Amaryllis, Tulips, Crocus. Bulbs are not always long lasting and do not like wind, protection is therefore the name of the game. When planted in drifts they produce a stunning display, so should be used in high visual impact areas and not lost in some odd-ball corner of the garden. Paper whites and Narcissus in general can be naturalised in either the garden beds or beneath a shade tree, as of course can freesias and should reproduce themselves annually for a good number of years if looked after and not destroyed by the lawn mower or strimmer. Tulips are more for container growing as to are Crocus even if they are grown in pots then plunged into the soil as they burst forth into bloom. Anemones are associated with woodland areas and can be planted as such in these areas, whilst amaryllis can be containerised or planted out in beds. When planting in the garden the rule of thumb for planting depth is simply the depth should equal the size of bulb; i.e. if the bulb is one inch in height then plant with one inch of soil covering the bulb.

Ornamental grasses are still popular and grow well in protected areas and containers; leaf colour can range from various hues of green, to striped leaf blades and the purple foliage of Penisetum.

Potential height should be determined before planting to find the right spot in the garden to show off the foliage or indeed in many cases colourful feathery flower spikes.

The beauty of many grasses is once cut down after flowering and old leaves are dying back new growth emerges quite quickly to give ongoing displays, coupled with this division of roots can increase stock in quick time. When grown in containers consider scale of plant to size and shape of pot. For the flower arrangers, both leaf and flower add extra dimension to your creative talents.