Gardening: April, a month in transition
At an earlier time in history April 1 was recognised as New Year’s Day. It could have caused a problem for the gardening calendar but that fortunately changed in 1582; the present arrangement works well.
With warmth being palpable and daylight hours longer, it is time to right the wrongs of Mother Nature’s wrath bestowed on us since the early part of the year.
I have rarely seen such damage by wind and salt as I have this past three months, foliage on some plants are almost “crisp” in their appearance and touch. In brief, we have damaged foliage and in many cases branches, an abundance of weed growth in flower beds and lawns and depleted plant nutrients because of the heavy rains.
The stage is therefore set for a major task-orientated spring clean-up in every department of the garden. Removal of fallen debris that can be the host for pest and diseases is an important task and should be carried out in conjunction with pruning diseased, broken and crossing branches.
Whilst carrying out pruning, check if plants require staking or need to be “replanted” from the effects of strong winds. In cases of plants showing root movement, check to ensure the roots are not damaged before “replanting”; if they are damaged, prune back to “clean” growth. Many plants have suffered everything from dieback to tip growth, which could be up to 12 inches long; in such cases prune back new growth with an outward facing bud.
If a plant has been severely damaged it may be best to prune hard back to encourage a “new” branch structure to accommodate future growth: in a worst-case scenario, replacement may well be the best option.
Weed growth has been prolific in most gardens, with the emphasis on “winter” weeds being the most rampant; these should be removed roots and all, to remove the chance of regrowth as much as possible. Many weeds are ephemerals ie short-lived. They germinate, grow, flower and seed in a short period of time. If we see a quick upturn in temperatures the situation will be exacerbated by the new growth of summer weeds; it is therefore vital to keep on top of all weed growth to avoid invasive problems with quick growing weeds.
With the low temperatures experienced earlier in the year, lawn grasses in many cases had become dormant, interspersed with intermittent growth during those short periods of warm weather. This resulted in a dominance of weed growth, with lawn grasses only now starting to re-emerge into active and continuous growth. Controlling the weeds is therefore essential in restoring the lawn grasses to optimum growth. Check for thatch — an inch or two of “brown” grass just below the “green” top growth — which is unsightly and creates an uneven cut when mowing. If present, verticut the lawn. This will invigorate new growth and, in combination with a fertiliser application, afford a good tilth and continuous growth.
When inspecting plant beds to determine extent of damage, some of the more “tender” types will not have fared as well as others. This is an indication of their hardiness factor and should be taken into consideration when considering replacement plantings.
When visiting nurseries remember they too were badly hit by the elements. With this in mind be selective with your choice of material: look for new healthy growth and a good symmetry, also check the root system to ensure the pot is not root-bound. When selecting plants for a hedge, look for uniformity of growth and shape which will ensure a better looking hedge in the early stages of growth.