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Gem of a job! It's a cut above the rest, says jeweller Kirk

WHEN it comes to pieces of sentiment, standard designs just won't do for most jewellery buyers. It's with that in mind, that many residents return over and over again to local jeweller Kirk Stapff.

Well-respected because of his talent in the art of jewellery design, Mr. Stapff's repeated successes have garnered the craftsman a loyal following.

"Most of my work is done on special order," he said. "Eighty per cent of my business involves making and designing original pieces of jewellery. Bermuda is a small place, people don't want to walk down the road and see someone wearing the same piece of jewellery that they're wearing, especially when it comes to wedding bands and engagement rings. You may get some similarities but there's always some feature that personalises it."

Today, an advanced goldsmith, Mr. Stapff began his training under the experts at local jewellery store Astwood Dickinson in 1977.

"My mom got me into it," he said. "I was always good with my hands. I used to spend a lot of time working on Mobylettes - I was a grease monkey really - and my mother suggested I try something new.

She said: 'Why not jewellery?' And (Astwood Dickinson owner) Tommy Dickinson took me on and gave me the opportunity to do that."

Mr. Stapff was introduced to the craft of jewellery making by the European goldsmiths at Astwood Dickinson.

"I was trained using traditional techniques of gold forming and lost wax casting," he explained. "I continue using those arts to the present day."

MR. Stapff changed jobs, resuming his training and advancing his skills under the guidance of the European and American goldsmiths at Walker Christopher. He remained there for 15 years, during which time he achieved his advanced stone setting qualifications with the Gemological Institute of America.

He refined his talents and skills through his making of Bermudian classic pieces and original designs, becoming especially well-known because of his one-of-a-kind designs.

In April 1998 Mr. Stapff opened his own showroom, Kirk's Jewelry & Design, on Parliament Street.

"Unfortunately, I was evicted six months later," he said. "But when one door closes another opens and I was able to move into Butterfield Place that November."

At first, Mr. Stapff said, his business was contained to half its current area, but with the failure of the store next to it - and the bank's assistance - the jeweller was able to expand.

"With the number of businesses that have (failed) I was obviously a bit scared at the beginning," he said. "I didn't know what was going to happen and (vendors) said there just wasn't much traffic in here. But (when I opened my own business), 99 per cent of my customers came along with me."

Well-known for fabricating commemorative jewellery for all occasions, Mr. Stapff frequently contributes one of his novel designs for charity auctions.

"As a jeweller, you have to be versatile," he explained. "There are so many different tastes. Some like jewellery to look old-fashioned, others prefer more modern, contemporary styles, I work with the customer to make sure they get what they want."

There are times, the jeweller says, when his skill as a designer is tested.

"I've designed thousands of pieces of jewellery over the last 26 years - half of which were my own creations," he said. "What I usually find is that a customer either knows exactly what they want, as in they want me to produce a design they've created, or they don't have any idea at all.

"You do have those people, however, with strong ideas and concepts who you have to talk things through with, to show them the different ways of doing things."

Surprisingly, when it came to his own wedding, the master craftsman left the work to his bride-to-be.

"My wife, Meredith, designed our wedding bands. They're identical except hers has diamonds."

In Bermuda, he says, it's not only girls who regard diamonds as their best friend. The stone is popular with the stronger sex as well.

"Most of the time, women want diamonds," he agreed, "but men like them too although they don't request them as often. Platinum is really popular at the moment. Everybody wants it although it's twice as expensive as gold. However, it's more durable than gold, and, unlike silver, it doesn't tarnish."

ALTHOUGH he admits jewellery design is not a job for everyone, Mr. Stapff feels that in general, trades on the island are suffering as more and more Bermudians opt for jobs offering higher pay than most craftsmen would offer an apprentice.

"I have a German jeweller working for me at the moment," he said. "There are quite a few Bermudian (jewellers) around, but there isn't a lot of money (in trades) in the beginning while working as an apprentice. Everyone wants to start at the top.

"Sure, they're only offered $300 a week, but they're actually getting paid to learn. I'm still learning - after 26 years - because jewellery making covers such a broad spectrum which is great for me because I love a challenge."

Kirk's Jewelry & Design is located in Butterfield Place at 65 Front Street, Hamilton. For information on repairs or Mr. Stapff's one-of-a-kind creations, call 296-9428.