THERE probably aren't too many travellers with an almost obsessive desire to visit both Goose Bay, Labrador and Gander, Newfoundland. But this journalist was definitely one of them.

The role those two airports played in early international travel is legendary. Imagine the excitement of flying transatlantic in an era when it was impossible to make it all the way across non-stop. Shannon, Ireland wasn't the only destination that became famous for that very reason.

In 1919, Captain John Alcock and Lt. A.W. Brown took off from Newfoundland in a twin-engine biplane landing unceremoniously in an Irish peat bog 16 hours later.

Charles Lindberg touched down in Nain, Labrador in 1933 (this traveller finally got to that remote northern Inuit village in 1990) while Amelia Earhart departed from Newfoundland bound across the Atlantic in 1928 and 1932.

During World War Two, Gander became the landing and refuelling base for the British War Ministry. American-built aircraft bound to fight on European fronts passed through both Labrador and Newfoundland in great numbers and it's estimated 500,000 pilots and crew made the trip.

For years, commercial flights encountering any kind of trouble continued to stop at both Gander and Goose Bay for assistance. Those which did so on September 11 made international news, got quite a lengthy stay, and many have returned to express their thanks.

Although I certainly didn't want to arrive in any life-threatening emergency landing, getting there some day held great nostalgic appeal. Yes, I realise it may sound slightly daft . . . but aren't all explorer types entitled to some personal eccentricities? My level of excitement finally getting to both of them on two separate trips was very satisfying.

Shortly after being stopped by the Canadian Mountie with his "moose on the loose" warning (as described in last week's column), we detoured into Gander Airport where a heady dose of nostalgic airline history waited.

The North Atlantic Aviation Museum on Route 1 recalls that era with a reconstructed DeHaviland Tiger Moth and such World War Two memories as Hudson, Voodo and Canso water bombers and a Beech 18. There was also a reconstructed DC-3 cockpit. Travellers encounter this sturdy work-horse occasionally still flying in remote tenth-world locations. This flyer certainly was.

Every spring for years, my brother Jim and I used to fly up to northern Wisconsin in a vintage DC-3 owned by North Central Airlines. It had been outfitted as an extraordinarily comfortable executive plane with lounge chairs, sofa and even "picture windows".

Our trips were often at the invitation of the then-Governor who invited a few outdoor-minded writers to fly up and join him fishing for opening day weekend in early May. Sometimes our destination was a special northern ski weekend or a flight into wilderness country. But the level of luxury was superior to anything even experienced in today's private luxury planes.

We're still invited to fish with the Governor on opening day . . . but this particular historic gem, rated one of the world's safest passenger planes, is now in the Smithsonian. So getting there is not quite as much fun.

Terra Nova National Park near here deserves a stop. It encompasses more than 400 square kilometres of wilderness where shoreline sights are definitely unusual. They range from icebergs pushed to its rugged coastline by ocean currents . . . to whales cruising deep water fjords so much a part of local scenery.

For those who enjoy hiking and are anxious to wear off calories from all their tasty berry pies (the endless variety includes many you've never tasted before, some similar to those I first encountered above Finland's Arctic Circle), a five-hour loop winds out past Norman Sound Camp ground to the fjords' southern coast. The lookout tower there provides a good viewing point for approaching icebergs.

One of Canada's top 50 golf course is here, so is good fishing for Arctic char and brook trout, along with sea angling.

Fjords are definitely among Newfoundland's major isolated sights. Gros Morne National Park is in the province's northwestern area overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence. UNESCO recognised its more than 1,800 square kilometres of beauty as a heritage site in 1987.

PRINCE Edward quite aptly described it when he said: "What the Galapagos are to biology, Gros Morne is to geology." It's truly like an open text book for those interested in studying effects of the Ice Age.

Try to take one of the boat trips that weave along fjords not unlike those in Scandinavia. These were formed as the last Ice Age receded and its glaciers deposited all kinds of geological wonders for travellers to view.

Boat tours leave from several sites . . . the one this traveller chose departed from a location reached via a wonderfully scenic, but not difficult three kilometres hike through a thickly forested area. Make local inquiries.

By now, readers have definitely got the picture . . . miles and miles of wild forested coastal scenery with those just a few samples. Naturally fish of all kinds, along with wild game like caribou, partridge and moose are on menus. I've tasted them all. They're good when properly prepared. Look for mooseburgers at seasonal festivals, with Irish fiddlers livening the scene.

Before continuing closer to "civilisation", a word more about icebergs. The parade of them that slowly floats past Labrador and Newfoundland every year, propelled by the Labrador current, begins the journey "calving" off Greenland's ice cap.

Currents push them south, usually starting in March, continuing summer into autumn, depending on that year's climate. It's been estimated from 10,000 to 30,000 icebergs of varying sizes make the trip.

Some aren't too much different than small ones seen around Alaska's Inside Passage glaciers. Others are more like small, multi-towered mountains. And remember, 90 per cent of their mass is under water, as the Titanic unfortunately discovered.

Long Point Lighthouse on Twillingate Island is a good place to see them. Twillingate Island Boat Tours (800-611-2374) offers tours. Fogo Island is another excellent viewing site. Ocean Watch Tours (709-533-6024) is a federally approved research and ocean exploration programme that includes iceberg viewing . . . and there are more.

Let's look at something totally different, but equally unique. Trinity is Newfoundland's Williamsburg . . . a jewel of a town frozen in time. First Court of Admiralty in North America was held there in 1615. Town fortunes were based on salt cod and prosperous fishermen built the kind of village meant to illustrate postcards.

Along the way, just about everywhere, you'll encounter craft shops. By-product of their long winter is a cottage home-knitting industry that sends visitors home with a lifetime supply of gloves, sweaters, hats and so on. Our household still has a vast collection showing absolutely no sign to wear.

As emphasis moved from fishing to tourism, the number of accommodations grew. We especially enjoyed the very English Glynmill Inn at Cornerbrook with its traditional atmosphere and a Partridge berry parfait worth a detour.

Speaking of food obviously leads to liquid refreshment as well. A drink with the attention-getting name Screech has to arouse curiosity. Reminiscent of Italy's Grappa, which quite literally comes from the bottom of the barrel, so does Screech, only it's a dark rum barrel and it will definitely wake up one's taste buds. Whether you find it a pleasant taste or not, it's certainly a conversation piece in any liquor cabinet.

Probably it will come as no surprise that this traveller lingered in the wildest, most remote regions of the country . . . roasting marshmallows on isolated beaches, sitting on fishing village piers nibbling luscious fish and chips drowned in vinegar . . . exploring back roads, listening to Irish fiddlers, some of whom still speak the Gaelic . . . looking for native bone carvings and so forth.

So we came rushing into St. John's on a wing and a prayer, with just enough time to overnight, clean the rental car of accumulated brochures and take off next morning.

THE overall quick impression of that island's major city and provincial capital was its uniqueness. Rows of pastel-painted frame buildings proclaim their owners' individuality. Unfortunately they were also veiled in the fog which often slips in and photography was impossible.

It all started when explorer John Cabot arrived in its harbour in 1497 claiming it for England. The Portuguese sailed in three years later and gave the port its name. Forty years later Frenchman Jacques Cartier dropped anchor to repair his ship . . . and so it began. Growth was slow, but today more than 200,000 live there.

Staying there is by no means "roughing it" . . . not with a Fairmont built in 1985 and a Delta as well. The list is long and growing . . . Holiday Inn, Quality Inn, B&Bs that include sea captains' antique-filled mansions.

We'll take you to Labrador's far north another time, lest you get overwhelmed with wilderness fatigue. Next week it's off to Nevada where Las Vegas is celebrating its 100th birthday.

Travel factfile: Department of Tourism (800-563-6353) and (709-729-2830) offers excellent free auto travel guide that we found very helpful in finding accommodations across Labrador and Newfoundland, along with suggested itineraries outlining attractions along each route. It's a very easy, relaxing area for independent car exploration.